rustexpert

WW2 Onan generating set, 2 cylinder. This set has an interesting civilian history and has been dry stored for some time. I haven't tried to make it run but the previous owner said it would work. It is quite a heavy lump though not physically big. The sides for the rad are there but the wooden skid carrier was live wormy so it has been destroyed. looking for £200. I am in Shropshire/ N.Wales area, P.M. me or 07858 414565

I remember as a student visiting the Luton factory in 1989, which by then was AWD trucks; they were still producing export "J" type trucks with no front brakes for export sale.

I have done some research; it seems that to cover a city and docks area like Bristol, hundreds were required and all of them ready to move at a moments notice as the wind changed. The British "Haslar" system covered the area with oily residue. I assume you Hedd were in college broadly the same time as myself late 1980's. I am surprised that they were being released as surplus so late for conversion at that time, also by that time farm transport was starting to become by legal necessity far more slick than earlier "crudeness". These examples have obviously been hanging around much longer than t

These are quite distinctive modifications with the kicked up front end; the welding is pretty horrible on the mods but all that is to be cut away anyway.

Here is a pic of two of the trailers. The closer one has a plaque on it "HASLAR 5 Ton - C.L.Co."

You could ask these; we deal with Dave; http://www.swagemaster.com/

If you look here; one of the WW2 variety was listed on fleabay last week. Due to the level of delapidation the pictures reveal the usually hidden internal construction. You might be able to view the item but I suspect as it has been pulled it has changed hands. NOTE; This link sends you to a suggested alternative item but there is a link to the original listing or alternatively search for "WW2 GMC Workshop Body" then look in the completed items bit! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-Gmc-Cckw-Workshop-Body-/173400944442?hash=item285f806f3a%3Ag%3APqMAAOSwK~VbQlFE&_nkw=gmc+body&

Hi, I purchased these military headlights via a well known web based sales site; when they arrived I was surprised (but not disappointed as they might well be better for my purpose) they have sealed beam units installed, these are obviously not as intended as the redundant wiring is still in place. However the sealed beam units do not have any marking on them to indicate what voltage they are intended to run. Can I assume that they are commercial vehicle 7" units and they are for 24 volts. I know I could wire them up to a 12v supply and see if they are bright or dim and then try them

These are a good place for re-sleeving brake cylinders; they usually have a few weeks lead time so don't delay getting them there. Have used them several times. Always done a good job for me and not too costly. http://classiccar-brakes.co.uk/contactus.htm

However, I did not risk annealing the whole pipe, just the heat from soldering on the new nipple; the old one was a bit rough. Cleaned it out with pipe cleaner and blow line. We will see how it lasts.

Are you suggesting L. Gardner and Sons got it wrong?

Because it would look like I didn't care what I was doing. It is not a get me home repair.

Annealing to soften (i.e. reverse work hardening) copper heat very carefully until dull red, leave to cool or quench in/with water. Quenching lifts the brown patina on the metal leaving pink copper which is much easier to polish.

Has any one got any thoughts, one of my vehicles has suffered a fractured copper diesel pipe. It is not a problem to shorten it and reform; if it was a steam pipe I would anneal it and hopefully to ward off subsequent breakage. However annealing a pipe usually leaves the internal surfaces scaly with loosened deposits which would be difficult to confidently clear, which isn't usually a great problem with a steam pipe but this is the pipe from the filter to the pump and any resulting debris left in the pipe will go straight in. Anneal or not?