john fox

"we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product." they are such an "honourable" e bay seller that when I pointed out that Ferret is fitted with hardened seats and therefore their claim that the pellets are needed in ferret for valve lubrication, I got a very nice response thanking me for the info and they continued to "honourably" advertise it exactly as before snake oil .... avoid

fluent Russian friend translates it as fell off the tank transporter when loading after the end of the parade

having been part of the team that restored (and then drove :-D) the SU100 at Duxford I can happily say they were defo SU100. I too was amazed to see so many running at once.

:shocked: almost ranks with the 2 that are on fleabay at the moment, neither appear "cheap" for what they are/need doing, despite the claims of being "rare":-D

great link, shame about their grasp of history "The LST program was developed in response to a need for armored infantry divisions in invasions by sea. England’s failed invasion at Dunkirk prompted Prime Minister Winston Churchill..."

this page shows the Ferret tyre and wheel construction, but the photos may help explain as the principle is the same for Fox, its just that the hutchinson insert looks different . the runflat insert is the rubber "donut" which will fill the space between tyre beads, it is not attached to the rim As you have removed the tyre from the rim then can/have you removed a normal inner tube? if yes then you do not have the runflat insert, if no then chances are you have the insert as the tube will be behind it

warning do you still have the original run flat tyres fitted? if yes then I very much doubt any tyre fitter will be able to do it as you need specialist tool to remove the Hutchinson insert which may explain why he punctured it. see Lee's thread on changing his tyres

errr .... :???

Yes Simex sell other tyres in the UK but you are missing the point. the MV tyre moulds we are talking about do not have EC approval (the CE mark?) so cannot be imported legally for use on road going vehicles. The fact Simex hold the moulds and can physically produce"new" tyres from them does not mean to say Simex has the appetitie for the considerable commercial risk it would incur in: a) making tyres for "agricultural" (non road) use and risk being sued when it was found they were fitted to road vehicles; and/or b) getting EC approval so it could sell road legal tyres, as this would involve spending their money before they get any sales income and result in only a small profit for the time and effort required

We dine at dawn Dine, Dine, Dine

sorry but even that is wishful thinking the inalienable fact is Simex WILL NOT SELL TO ANYONE (OR COMPANY) INSIDE THE EU becuase the tyres are not compliant with modern regulations and they will not risk selling them even to a private "importer". Go read this thread covering Jack's attempts to buy a container load. The demand is easily there and plenty of peole can afford to do it but Simex will not supply, full stop even the Americans cannot get Simex USA to produce from the T24 mould and sell inside the States for the same reason, guys on the Ferret Yahoo group have repeatedly tried just that

to state the obvious, its no different to what is happening now, those that were left after the war were sold off (cf Witham today) to anyone who wanted them (again look at the types of people using Witham). Its just that back in the 40's and 50's there was not really any collectors around, so they all went to civilian commercial use and inevitably therefore once they were beyond economic repair were scrapped some great links there, thanks cross posting from the how did you start in MV thread, I always remember a CMP parked in the local farmyard converted to timber work when I were a kid and bitterly regret that it disappeared before I had the money becuase I certainly had the interest and knew what it was :-D

I lifted my turret on and off using a long reach engine crane. It was rather unstable and I had to stand on the back of the crane to stop it toppling :shocked:, all very un 'elf & safety but I got it done alone :-D

thats the same system I have so an easy installation. You can use any live wire to get your power from as the system will automatcially deal with the fact it is a 24v source. if you have the original wiring loom still present then the way I did mine was at the driver's left knee there is a pair of wires marked RPU with a 2 pin plug on it, (originally for connecting to the driver's respirator pressurisation unit). I cut off the plug and simply connected these 2 wires to the control box + and - wires and mounted the control box behind the driver's windscreen washer bag so it is somewhat out of the way from any wetness getting in through the drivers hatch. I mounted the screen across the front of the stowage bin/cubbyhole that the washer bag is attached to, this means the screen is relatively free from glare etc sorry don't have an interior photo to hand. I prefer to see a bit of the vehicle in my picture as a reference point, hence the rear camera mounted on the turret as this gives a good panoramic view across most of the rear and as I have the turret slightly offcentre when driving (aids me getting in the hole!) it gives a bias towards the offside so I can see who is trying to overtake me :eek: I use the second camera on a magnetic base on the offside wing (the only bit of iron around there) so I can see to the right at junctions (and have a bit of the wing in the picture as reference) yet still be able to remove it when at shows PS - the 20m cable is far too long for the front camera so I bought the 5m cable as well, even then theres a lot of it coiled up inside the vehicle

drain plugs etc - as you state, no special procedures required Its not clear from your post what you mean by "main battery" it is a 24v system using two batteries which should be identical (CVRW does not have turret batteries) and if you only have a 12v charger then you will need to charge each battery independently (ie disconnect the vehicle leads from the battery being charged). A "trickle" charger will simply take longer than a "normal" charger. BTW, generally speaking, running a 12v accessory (eg camera) off only one battery in a 24v system is not good for that battery as it will be subject to uneven charging and will thus fail earlier than the other one (I assume you understand the batteries are wired in series and so which one will give you a 12v source?)

amongst all the moaning from sellers, anyone see the coverage of the seller who has just been found guilty in court of running 2 accounts and bidding up against his own items, http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/8632331.stm now who else would do that...

any semi setting joint compund should do, I prefer not to use a genuinely non setting compund on the wheel hub becuase it could eventually be spun out by the centrfugal forces so I prefer the semi setting variety. I used Red Hermetite on mine, you used to be able to buy it in Halfrauds (before they switched to only selling bling for chav motors) but Hermetite stopped making it so Hylomar now market it instead. original hylomar blue if you can get it and afford it, or their hylolite version if you want cheaper, a good motor factor will stock it http://www.hylomar.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64&Itemid=138 http://www.hylomar.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:hylotyte-red&catid=1:latest-news&Itemid=18

as Lee says remove the tinwork covers and each adjuster is then easy to see, it does help to remove the drivers seat so you can hold the feeler guage at a reasonable angle to set the correct clearance

OM13 is, per the technical specifciation, an ISO 12 - Liquimatic No 1 is ISO10 whilst No2 is ISO15. Most Reme folks say it makes no difference if you use 1 or 2. FWIW I got a drum of 2 on offer so have used that for years (actually used is a misnoma, I have consumed about 1 pint!) Everyone I know with a Ferret has used EP90 and/or 80w90 for years. I have done so since 1994 when my supply of genuine OEP 220 ran out.

there are 2 ways to do it, old way and new way Old Way - per most manuals look at page 80 figure 38 on Andy's website here - on level ground - fill via plug no1 - ie plug on top of the outer tracta hub - check level via plug 24 - ie plug to which you refer in #5 - allow considerable time for the oil to seep through the needle bearings and actually fill the outer hub itself New Way - per an EMER I have never seen but many REME guys (such as Ferretfixer) say this was done: - on level ground - rotate wheel until outer hub drain plug (the one you refer to in #1) is in position - fill outer hub directly through that ignoring the original instructions regarding plugs 1 and 24 (I have been told to use 10 or 2 o'clock rather than 3 or 9 however) BTW there is no pressure relief valve in the outer tracta joint and thus overpressuring will blow oil past the seal and cause weeping through the 2 drain holes on the rear of the brake carrier plate (and this can excite an MOT inspector who will think you have contaminated brake shoes as a result) There is a theoretical argument that if you do the old way with the wheels off, then the suspenion is over relaxed and the outer hub will be much lower than normal because it is effectively downslope and so risks overfilling

that's a yes from me

oh boy do I agree with that sentiment

correct - a common fault, not seen one that can be removed with disassembling the bracket from the hull, great design. one US owner has bent the front lip of the holder outwards which just gives enough angle to get the screen in/out under the hull armour

dont have pic to hand and ex[plantion probably hard to follow but you need a right angled curved plate which bolts under the seat guide rails and then the inertia reel bolts to the other bit of the right angle plate so the reel is then out to the side of the seat and below the seat level

Mike you decide what they are! certainly list a lot of stuff on eBay these days http://www.milbiz.co.uk/