john fox

OK I should post this under IMBSB, anyhow what is the WIKI and how do you use it. All I get are some prompts for preferences, upload help etc but all those links giove blank pages? Is this some form of blog where you do your own input? How do you access other people's entries?

the steering wheel on my morris is as bad as yours was, so i would like to do that job as you have done hence my interest in knowing where to get the resin and colourants for it Thanks

very interesting thanks very much where do you get coloured resin from? all I know off is car body filler stuff like Isopon which is blue

consider moving up to Unimog rims (9.00 x 20) and fitting 10.5x20 tyres like ,most of the continental based 101's do. i understand you have to fit a spacer but at least it gives another option

Neil What's your confusion? I got hold of my father's records through the Army personnel Centre at Kentigern House using the info supplied on the veterans agency website. Very simple process, although I did have to send in a copy of my birth certificate and Dad's death certificate since as stipulated he was not around to give his consent and I had to prove relationship - still keeps some civil servants in work I suppose. John

try the classic car people, starting at the A's I found these guys who are incidentally only 3 miles from where i live, i know they advertise in eBay ABC Spares - New spares for all vehicles 1925-1975. Specialists in ignition, plugs & service parts. Lucas, Delco Remy and Champion 32 Hythe End Road, Wraysbury, Staines, MIddlesex, TW19 5AR, Great Britain, Tel: 01784-481712 Email: richardjnorton@hotmail.com failing that there are plenty of spark plug suppliers who attend the classic car authojumbles especially at Beaulieu if you can get there

:-o - never realised those Michelin tyres had been around that long

I too have used rain x for years both on my normal car and on my MVs On cars you often only need to use intermittent wipe speeds rather than full speed and to misquote another ad - it really does what it says on the tin 2 seconds search on google and taking the first 2 hits an online supplier at £6 - I leave you to investigate p+p costs http://www.motormania.co.uk/product_subcategory.asp?cat=Car%20Care&subcat=Interior%20Cleaners or of course there is the dread eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/helmet-windscreen-rain-x-repellent-race-rally-car-cars_W0QQitemZ220024594236QQihZ012QQcategoryZ100921QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Rain x and Halfrauds own brand are easily available - from them of course

Steering wheel There is a company that advertises in classic car mags that does steering wheel refurbs but when i enquired for my vehicle (which shall remain nameless lest i be accused of polluting a US forum :wink:) they sad it takes them 6 - 9 months to do the job because they have few staff and much work. can't remember the contact details off hand but PM me if still interested and i'll see if i can dig out John

Don't know if any of you guys are familiar with this auction site but it is where i bought my SLR from, although not from this specific seller. Aussie wood furniture SLR currently on sale - old spec too. http://www.speedbid.com/lot.cfm?lotID=370365 PS I am not the seller nor do I know him or ever heard of him so have no idea how good he/she is

Hi paul sadly I way down south but at least we can share something ....

I own a pre 95 SLR and Artists is correct with how far you can strip it. I also have never tried to chamber a round as when i did that on my GPMG it chambered more or less but then jammed and bent both the round and cartridge making extraction a :banghead: Price range for pre 95 will be closer to £600 than £400. Strictly speaking the post 95 specification requires that there are no moving parts at all, they should all be welded or glued up: loading handle :nono: trigger :nono: ejection port & chamber :nono:

So 2 episodes in one night, I guess the ratings must be poor and they have rescheduled it? Hopefully we may have seen the last of this format where a bunch of scumbags get a para jump at someone else's expense. I noticed that one of them at least had the decency to ask for his face to be blanked out on screen - not much point in taking part in a TV program though heh? May they rest in legitimate obscurity - none of your BB celebs here thank God :argh:

Bah - usual Yank stuff don't forget we fought WW2 also :shocking:

Hi Andy Can't help re Dorset but are you aware of these guys: http://www.londonducktours.co.uk/ Yes you guessed it they do tours of London in a Dukw, obviously tourist orientated and the Ducks are rather modified, (diesel engine and of course a big yellow cab) but it might be a fall back option?

Interesting, thanks where do you get the switches from :? my Morris came fitted with what I believe is a motorcycle switch and will only operate with a dead straight pull so is very tempramental since, to achieve this, it is mounted externally under the wheel arch and so is prone to corrosion and spring elongation/failure. does your switch work at different angles? Cheers John

Hi Paul welcome to a choice vehicle for manuals join the owners club https://www.101club.org/index.php or take your chances on eBay, someone always has the manuals for sale but usually a bit more than the club price - albeit the club does have a memebership fee of course!

I also agree with Chris and particulalry re putting bronze green over the red oxide before a Nato Green coat. The use of a gloss/semi gloss coat under a matt coat will give better long term protection than simply matt paint alone. Depending on your source of matt paint it can be porous and rust out even if there is no visible damage to the paint surface. Re paint stripper - see how many coats are on your particular vehicle - most ex MOD stuff has so many coats I doubt you will get to bare metal without a lot of reapplications of stripper - much easier to use a needle gun and do it first time, one time. If you don't have the equipment to do it (compressor etc) then I would recommend getting one as a worthwhile investment for other jobs in the future - even if you only end up inflating tyres.

Here is a basic Mickey mouse scheme - note however that the canvas has NOT been painted - it should have been painted with black as well http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/00ec25/Morris/morrisc8withtitle.jpg[/img] This is not a very good example but may give you a basic idea. For those in the know please do not be too critical of the painting I will re do it at sometime in the near future :oops:

Jerry before swapping the carb, the other standard check is to ensure you get two equal measure and pressure jets of fuel when you operate the accelerator pedal since unequal fuel supply would manifest on overrun and might sound as a misfire - take off the airhorn from the carb - operate the accel linkage and look down the carb to see the petrol squirts from the 2 tubes - if they are unequal you may have a worn or failing diaphragm (or just dirt blockage) in whichever side of the carb is poor, replacing these diaphragms is easy but no point listing that here if the jets are OK

Where do you go for gun mounts? Mk1 or Mk2?? Try the usual, Glenn or Banister, they both had loads of Mk1 GPMG and Bren/LMG, but expect £££ for bren gun version

Lee What is the equivalent to OM13 and what product name/code do you ask Rye oils for? I bought some "OM13" from Marcus G but have always wanted to know what it actually is so I can source other suppliers if needed Thanks

I'm certainly stupid :? If i understand this thread then the Castrol EP80w-90 I have been using for years is effectively OEP220 and suitable for most applications. But if something is listed as straight EP90 (which is what other gear oils particulalry own brand stuff is shown as) would it make much difference over an 80w90 provided BOTH were GL4?

at £30 per pair + VAT + shipping :-o what's the point!

Jack like anything canvas it depends on their condition. I have used one for the last 7 years and never had a problem, they are single skin so do remember not to wedge things hard against the sides or you risk destroying surface tension and cause soak through (I have reproofed it once using civilian tent treatment)