john fox

Does Sara/Sal have a different bracket then? none of the drums I have (which all look like Lee's photo) fit into the gear loops welded to Ferret turrets - the u shaped bracket being far to wide to fit. I had to cut bits off the bracket to make it fit :dunno:

Rick I did this for my Ferret 1. required a letter from a "DVLA approved vehicle club" (I used the MVT - others are listed on the DVLA website) attesting to the age of the vehicle 2. sent that letter off to the local VRO and got an age related plate to replace the Q plate simple - except it involved dealing with civil servants and all their quirks :adminpwr: in the end they came and physically inspected the Ferret to check its VIN and also probably because being armour it is not compatable with the available make and model lists and they got :sweat: - you should have an easier time with a truck

David what wood did he use do you know?

what date is that? Sadly its not mine but I like to collect info re Cyprus ferrets (I have a Mk2) John

this chap in Auzzie land has drawings for the WD pattern but in this case Morris Commercial supplied 15cwt wooden body tub on his website - hope this link is a) not too late and b) works! http://www.geocities.com/vk3cz/GSBody.html John

Hi David Can I have the Sword beach chart please - my dad landed there on the second wave ashore John

Santa came early on the 17th but all the same I didn't mind too much :whistle: http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/00ec25/Foxarrival001.jpg[/img] I really must get a window cleaner around so future piccies are less fuzzy

Like Chris I too posted a message on my Ferret's regimental website (25 Fd RA) and through that got in touch with the guy who was its driver during most of the 1980's. Am hoping to meet up with him this year and get some photos of him beside it now - not managed to get any of it in service yet though

John Whilst this topic has been done to death, the fact remains that a Morris C8 is not exempt under clause 30 of the V112G form because it is not over the specified weight. Whilst your assertion about maintenance standards is of course true, you are nonetheless committing an offence because your insurance is invalid since you do not have a valid MOT exemption claim. You might not have an accident because of a mechanical fault, but if someone else causes an accident in which you are involved, then your insurance position could be questioned by some smartxxxx company not wanting to pay out. As Lee says no one, including the DVLA or VOSA, is prepared to give a definitive answer for fear of litigation. If you maintain the vehicle correctly, paying out £40 - £50 for a test is irritating but puts you beyond the law in one sense. General advice to all (not to anyone person on this forum) - drive responsibly

Thanks Richard that answers my original question as to why it was importantly stencilled in the cab of a Jimmy(??) As for the rest of my comments :banme:

Halleluiah, :angel: the man has seen the light and moved to an almost proper part of the country, finish it off and move next door to God's Own Living Paradise - Surrey :evil:

Sure do - all adds to the excitement of driving especially at the moment where I am working in Bath - the entire place is surrounded by hills and I reckon I get to work on half the petrol everyone else uses. I especially like the way i catch everyone up on the downhill sections too :-D, makes it much more interesting given that the West Country folks don't seem to know they have a 5th gear and also seem afraid to use 4th gear most of the time :shake: (Brake pads are cheap to replace!) Ok I'll subscribe to our :police: state in future and drive properly, lesson learned - thanks guys :whistle:

IMBSB many years ago I looked inside a now unmemorable type of truch exceot it was definitely American and I think probably a WW2 3 axle truck which had had a beautiful paint job including stenciled across the top of the cab the words: no long distance coasting I have always wondered: a) what is coasting - is that in gear but with foot on clutch or is it with box in neutral out of gear? b) why is it prohibitied and does that apply only to that specific US truck? Please educate me before I get older and/or destroy a different vehicle to which this driving style applies but of which I am ignorant. If I undertand coasting to be as defined in a) above I do that all the time on down slopes in my car to save petrol! John

looking in my crystal ball I think: a) petrol prices will make this an increasingly exclusive hobby but will not kill it off because when you are addicted to your hobby you are blind to price b) what will actually kill it off is not running costs but it will be the "green" lobby and the elimination from the highway of "unclean" petrol engines irrespective of their historic importance - witness the London diesel ban. I am sure in 20 - 30 years time we will not be allowed to drive our pride and joys on the road at all. Therefore from a financial point of view, whilst at the moment you can reasonably expect that a well maintained green machine will recover more of less its original cost price when you sell it, I expect that in the future if you have a lot of money tied up in a vehicle collection, you will never get this back and so you should not think of the value of your vehicles if you are, for example, thinking about how much capital / investment money you have for your retirement/pension.

pity you can't make out the first digit otherwise you could at least see if DVLA still regard it as extant: http://www.vehiclelicence.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/application;JSESSIONID_EvlPortalApp= HVv7TkK2bDLJxMgwn1RrhJtGy31Gpkn4DPNy30hTYg8wnbrsC3CG!1852810686!416265947?origin= vehicleEnquiryInfo_en.jsp&event=bea.portal.framework.internal.portlet.event&pageid= Vehicle+Enquiry&portletid=VehicleEnquiry&portletns=VehicleEnquiry_en&wfevent=link.next

Stevenson's Rocket on rails outside, lots of big engines inside and some you could get inside too in those days before H&S rules. I remember it just but I hasten to add however I'm not that old :yawn2:

There's a discussion about tyres on the 101 club forum at the moment - they are thinking of importing a load. Others have detailed where and what they have at the moment

As ever with Ferret there are only really 2 sources of parts Marcus Glen or Banisters. However for mechanical stuff like that you're certain to get it from Banisters Do bear in mind however that there is no clear consensus on the value of using NOS seals from the dealers. They may have been made a long time ago and have hardened up by now - then again check with Banister as I vaguely remember he once said he buys brand new ones nowadays having sold off his NOS stock years ago. Thats the other annoying part of oil seals on Ferret - they are almost certainly standard items available on the civi market but no one has ever posted up a definitive part number conversion list to enable us to order them direct from the places the dealers buy them from - you could always try yourself of course :whistle:. if you have a seal stockist near you Re the job - this list is probably not complete and don't blame me if I miss a bit or the order is a bit out (over 6 years since I did mine) - jack up the vehicle and secure on stands - I removed the road wheel to improve access to the hub and reduce the overall weight of components to be moved around - remove boot/gaiter ring of bolts (& lock wire) and jubilee clip and separate the now exposed half shaft/prop shaft - undo the upper suspension wish bone allen key bolts (do NOT remove lower one) - the entire wheel hub can then be pivoted downwards, may need to be prised apart to start. Warning this is a heavy item so watch your fingers and toes, have a cushion under it (eg block of wood) to protect it from damage - remove gaiter/boot to expose oil seal - replace seal and reverse above procedure Can i strongly suggest you get yourself a copy of the EMER as a free download from http://www.Ferret-afv.org if you don't already have it

Chris where is the oil actually leaking from - follow the trail back up the tyre and see if it ends at one or both of the 2 holes on the back plate which the brakes are attached to , if so the hub oil seal has gone and to replace that you have to strip the hub from the front. If the leak is not from those holes but the source is somewhere on teh back side of the tyre the seal behind the gaitor boot may have gone - thats much easier to replace as you don't have to dismantle the hub to do it. Those are the only 2 seals on the outer tracta. If the leak is on the front of the tyre then its the instant gasket thats gone on the hub joints John

That's the best solution To be :offtopic: for moment if anyone is interested there are plenty of scary reasons why copper slag and the mineral based alternatives (except aluminium) are also now becoming a bit suspect from a scientific basis as well Ok I'll :died: now

Cheap - certainly Advisable - absolutely not (studies show as little as 2 hours at a time of regular exposure can affect onset of silicosis) Legal to use - Err as stated by David it is illegal in dry blasting systems, hence the use of grit media and the term Grit blasting rather than sand blasting nowadays Despite strict health and safety controls in most developed countries, silica sand is still a widely used blasting media. In the UK the use of sand or other substances containing free silica is specifically prohibited for “use as an abrasive for blasting articles in any blasting apparatus” by the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002 (COSHH) (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations SI 2002 No. 2677). Sorry to be so PC :police: but its a recent research project here at this university where I work so very much a hot topic at the moment

I'd be very interested to know how small a smaller battery is I use No 72 batteries in mine and you can't fit 2 of them in one box A No 72 battery is probably overspecified though as Mick says when you are not using transmitting radios.

I did a 101 Chassis with this in my carport and painted and cleaned up as I went along - its not a one day job on a piece that size. I am not for a moment suggesting this is the best value for money way of doing it. It would certainly be quicker to get a professional company to do it, but I was very satisifed with the fact that I had personally done it to my own (exacting :-D) standards. Yes it would have been a lot quicker if i still had access to the museum blasting room and their proper kit which is where I learned the safety stuff about doing this work but owning my own equipment means I did the job and I can do it again on my next vehicle when I get one http://www.mactools.com/Mac/Mac+Products/Catalog/Automotive+Specialty/Paint+%26+Body/Spray+Guns/Accessories/SB90 PS - with that sort of kit the key to it is the quality of your compressor (cfm output)

I do it myself. Bought a decent petrol powered compressor to do both paint spraying and run a blast cabinet - great for small parts but realistically compressor does struggle to run the separate outdoor blasting system I also bought but that does mean I can do chassis etc myself. As its my intention to own a number of vehicles over time I thought the investment worthwhile - total about £600 including the compressor which of course has multi uses and being pretrol can use anywhere. Running costs are not that great for expendable grit and of course the cabinet uses recyclate. John

thanks for trying Lee