64EK26 Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Hi Engine out Chassis lowered ready to take tank off Then I can sort out the back end and get it grit blasted, in the mean time axles etc to refurb Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Frustrating day.... Rebuilt the gearbox but, found a crack in the gearbox housing :banghead: Forunately I have a spare gearbox housing, so all apart again (I seem to be getting two sets of images, even though I have only up loaded one, wonder why this is ??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Bad luck with the gearbox mate but at least you noticed it in time, anyways it's good practice for you 😉 you are not the only one with problems uploading images, I think everyone else is suffering too and the threads are starting to look a shambles, have brought it the attention of the hmvf but have had no response and the problem persists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Tank off ... Chassis ready for surgury... Rear bumper to be removed and replaced with correct chassis extensions. Also found a couple of extra brackets on the near side chassis rail where the spring hanger is for the rear wheels, any idea what these are for ? ,possibly pump mounting ? (I dont know how the mono pump is mounted, any pictures anyone ) Back to gearbox tommorrow (I will be rebuilding these in my sleep soon !) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Think chassis bckt could be to take the silencer part of the exhaust system, not sure what the cross member bckt is though :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 Think chassis bckt could be to take the silencer part of the exhaust system, not sure what the cross member bckt is though :cool2: Thanks Jeremy - That makes sense.. Failrly lazy weekend. Gearbox rebuilt, selection of all gears is nice and posative , feels good (now need finish the rest so I can re-fit it :-D) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Chassis surgury done, incorrect rear bumper removed, slowly getting ready for the chassis to be grit blasted after blasting. I can see how best to 'patch' in the rear extensions, fortunately they are not structral on a an MWC as there is no tow bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 New shafts for PTO Hope to re-assemble tommorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 PTO re-assembled I think that the oil seal compression pad should be held in with studs and locknuts (will make some 1/4 BSF studs to suit) Made one of the control rods, just need to turn up the other and make a handle Also made a re-usable bypass filter as the ZS1 cartriges are hard to find. The base of the ZS1 is cut out so that the insert can be fitted. The insert consists of a 2.75" OD copper tube (eBay £9.99), a shaped end cap made from some scrap brass sheet, and a 2.75" drain plug (£5 from a local agricultural hardware suppliers). The tube in the picture was linked to a small compressor so that I could pressure test it (no leaks at 4Bar/60PSI). Apart from the old case of the ZS1, the flange on the inside of the ZS1 cartridge is re-used as the two brass pipe fittings screw into this. Inside the ZS1 there is a paper cartridge with metal end caps, the top end cap is trimmed in diameter and re-used so the replacement cartridge (from a Mercedes) fits nicely, the spring on the base of old ZS1 cartridge that holds it in place is re-used to make sure the replacement cartridge seals nicely. Little bit of filler at the base, undercoat on... Just need to paint it black. Overall very pleased with the result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 PTO Assembled today... Control rod details, handle is made from a de-chromed tap handle, and the ball is made from a small doo handle. The thin rod is pulled up so the the lever can me nove to engage the PTO, it is sprun loaded so that it stays in place just about to start on the pump drive shafts (still looking for the pump) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Some excellent engineering stuff going on here, well done very much enjoying this thread keep the photos and commentary coming Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 Took loads of bits to the grit blasters Started looking at the cylinder head, this will be totally stripped, valves re-seated, replace core plug at rear. Serious de-carbonising needed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 Hi Haven't posted for a while... I have been plodding on with the axles.... New King Pins shims made and fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 Hi Not posted for a short while... I have been busy sorting various bits an bobs Starter motor rebuilt (commutator skimmed and new return spring fitted) all tested and working fine Generator refurbished, all tested and working Sourced all the bits I think I need for the engine rebuild, new collets, core plugs timing chain. Still have a question about the block see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57600-Bedford-28HP-Cylinder-Block-Core-Expansion-Plugs (Norman Aish doesn’t know what these are) Cleaning the outside of the fuel tanks, but again I have a couple of questions see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57653-Bedford-MW-fuel-tanks-and-fittngs Will be checking the insides with an endoscope and cleaning out with ball bearings and paraffin The chassis grit blasting is on hold until I get back from W&P. As I will then have an uninterrupted run to get the rear extensions made, do the welding and get plenty of primer on it. Still looking for Stellar filters, differential pumps and a mono pump, any leads would be most welcome. Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 Photos of fuel tanks The threads on the tanks are different, the on on the right has an NPT ? thread and the one on the left has a BSP thread I will be replacing the internal pipe to a brass one with a gauze filter as the existing one is very corroded (does the tap on this tank screw onto the 1/4" BSP outlet ?. I don't have any fittings for the tank on the right. Also I assume that the filler cap on the right in the picture below is the correct one (so need to look out for at least one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 Hi Richard Might be usefull to use near side and off side when when relating to fuel tanks , I think the fuel cap you need is the left hand green one, if you need another I have a couple of spare ones. Here some pics of my leftover fuel tap. Will email you the pics of the MWC I had a good look at when I visited East Kirkby last wkend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter75 Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I have never seen one but are the early Bedford fuel caps pressed steel? Could the right hand cap be one? Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Peter/Jeremy Thanks for the replies and the photo of the fuel tap 1) I have labelled the tanks (Near Side amd Off side) - think this is correct 2) Peter I see that your Nearside tak (?) has a supporting strap on the neck 3) The fuel cap on the RHS in the picture above is pressed steel, the other is cast (aluminium I think) Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter75 Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Hi Richard, The tank picture I posted was OY which is larger and has a slightly different filler neck but the fitments and pipes are the same just longer stand pipes in side the tanks. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjohn Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 I have an odd pair of filler caps that are very similar to yours...... I wonder which sort is correct for each typo of MW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 Had a chance to do a bit on the Engine Block (inbetween trying to sort out Austin Champ Starter Motor Problema and Ferret Fuel Pump) I can now get at all of the core plugs, which will be replaced (after clearing waterways). As well as taking the pistons out and checking the rings etc. Anything else I should do whilts it is stripped down this far ? Bell Housing, Flywheel and clutch plate assembly back at home ready for cleaning etc. Will be having a couple of weeks off for W&P. I will be with the Vintage Operating Group, demonstrating radios (WW2 to current), and will be located at the end of the traders area stands R20 - R23. Drop in for a chat if you feel like it. Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Herbert Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 I had a MWR many years ago. I don't now have its chassis number but it had most of the late features except that it did not have the sling plates on the hubs. It had the pressed filler caps and at the time I remember that most of the Bedfords that I came accross had pressed caps. The cast ones I think were a very late feature though were completely interchangable so could turn up on any Bedford of that period that had that style of tank. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 While you have the engine stripped remember to take out the brass rocker feed conection, as it only has a tiny hole in it and blocks easily restricting oil flow to the rockers. take an airline to the gallery at the same time to clear any debris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Also check the timing chain and sprockets for wear. There being no tensioner. With a new chain and good sprockets there is hardly any movement, so this will give you an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 Hi Back from W&P where I managed to find a few bits a) Master Clyinder which had beed re-sleeved and fully overhauled b) Two reear cylinder caseings that had been re-sleeved c) Set of flexible hoses d) OX fuel sender e) inners of the oil/air bath filter (still looking for the mounting bracket, elbow and rest of piping to the carb also had a good look over an MW and took photos and measurements of cab wood work (thanks to Richard, another MW owner) How long are the sender tubes on am MW? obviously the OX ones are longer as the tank is deeper, what I am after are the dimensions below also where can you get the cork washers for the tap, and how are they fitted ? (see photo below) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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