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younggun

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I would go with Stormin and Chris, it took time to rust on it will take time to free, the rust particles build up into a wedge as you move it so get it moving in and out a bit at a time. Those flanges bend surprisingly easily so careful does it.

 

On the bright side it's better than being too loose....

 

If you didn't do stuff like this you wouldn't get to show off reversing......:drive:.....:cool:

 

Something went wrong...

 

please excuse cr**py too small wording, it says 'And reversing the dolly trailer'

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Nick. The flange puller with 3 legs can twist the flange( been there, got the tee shirt )

If you can get a spare flange it looks like a 1700 series and a centre from a puller and bolt, and make a puller. the thing with using all the flange bolts you spread the load on the flange equally. hope this may help. It's what i use now. broke too many pullers

Edited by protruck
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good news guys

 

today the flange decided it was going to come along quietly after all . after re thinking the puller i was using i switched to a slightly bigger puller and instead of the 3 legd puller i used a 2 legged bearing puller which worked alot better as the load was sprnead all over the back face of the flange . i wound the puller on as much as i could then heated the back of the flange with the gas and then crack ! it let go . after that it just tapped off . seal was changed without delay splines on flange and shaft cleaned reassembled with a gd dose of copperslip

 

floyd is enjoying a nite indoors tonite in the workshop will be goin back tommorow to refit my modifed exshaust :cool2: change the engine oil and put some anti freez in

 

nick

007.jpg

Edited by younggun
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spent today putting all the exehaust back on and giveing the old meadows donkey a feed and waterd . i got it all done by mid after noon so that could only mean one thing

:yay:TEST RUN :yay:

 

test run went well had a little ride round holding up other road users :-D

then retired back to base to check for leaks ,

well there is now no oil leaking from the back dif i am happy to say . but i can see the next big job showing its head . front hub on the passer side back axel is leaking and seems to be getting worse . so think its time i got those shiny hub seals out the packeing a fitted them ,

pass the hub spanner please :-(

 

nick

Edited by younggun
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Straight through egg n sauce on a Meadows diesel? Pah....I'm sure someone has already done that:cool2: If you route it up the back of the cab you can give yourself a nice ringing ear when you open the rear window. Please take lots of piccys when you change the rear hub seals cos mine a gushing oil out too.:-(

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the modifed egg and sauce as rob calls it did not work acording to plan. i think i need another baffle out of the silincer the 1 wasent enough:noyay:

 

i wil get some pics for u rob when i gather up enough courage to start the job in question .god knows how long its been since the wheel has been off yet alone the hub . also some other explorer owners at the banbury rally told me they seem to remmber the one hub on my explorer falling off goin across the rally feild one year and i bet it was the hub that is now leaking .:argh:

which is the best way to pull the hub off ? i have the use of a big 3 leged hydrolic puller which was far to big to use on the prop flage will this be any good for the job ??

 

nick

Edited by younggun
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also some other explore owners at the banbury rally told me they seem to remmber the one hub on my explorer falling off goin across the rally feild one year and i bet it was the hub what is now leaking .:argh:

 

Nick,

 

The fact that a hub might have come loose in the past, is worrying. I used to work on these when they were in Army service, and if a hub was not tight on the taper it would then put load on the key and keyways, and also wear the tapers so that it was not possible for the hub to fit tight again. You can sometimes hear a creaking noise if a hub is not tight. As for pulling the hub off, if it is fitted tight, then only puller to use is the proper one, which resembles the hub cap, but with a gurt big screw in the centre. You used the hub nut slogging spanner to load this screw and hopefully release the hub.

 

Richard

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thanks richard

 

i dont think the hub is loose now i will keep my fingers crossed

 

does any one have a picture of this puller other than the one in the manual i think i need to try and make one . and also if anyone knows the size of the hub nut itself so i can either search round at work for the right size or make one to fit

 

thanks

 

nick

Edited by younggun
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Nick, I have the puller and spanner, you are welcome to borrow them but I think distance is going to prevent this happening (unless you know better), I reckon you could make a puller using a spare hub cap/slinging flange.

 

Forceful had a lost a hub in service which left the shaft and hub tapers a bit scored, I carefully filed off all burrs that were too high on the shaft. As it was not possible to clean the inside of the hub taper, a replacement one was checked for fit with engineers blue and well tightened.

 

I painted a mark across the shaft /nut and checked often for the first few years, nothing has moved in fourteen years, so don't worry too much, if Floyd has lost a hub it may be a relatively easy fix, which hopefully should have already been done.

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Keep us posted on this if you don't mind Nick. Mine's leaking oil so I know I've got this job looming sometime. (Not a problem with an annual mileage of 2 at the moment!) :drive: Not a job I've tried before. Hope it goes smoothly for you.

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