fv1609 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Looks OK to me, or do you mean availability? I haven't had to replace any, but have spares off a generator trailer. I would imagine somebody like Roy Elvis would stock them. Regards, -Roger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Is this one of your trick questions, Clive? Could be corroded inside as they are not wholly waterproof, also got those damned ID sleeves on the cables and lettering fades over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julezee001 Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 The bullets and rubber insulators were still available through Lucas a couple of years ago, so I ordered 100 on my account. Luckily I was phoned when they came in, and asked if I really wanted them, at £3.50 each! No thankyou. Since then I've saved and re-used all mine for re-wiring the Explorers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 It's not an availability question nor a corrosion issue. But it is a trick, because it caught me out. Having started to get a slightly dodgey ignition switch, I had to dismantle four Switchboards No.1 to verify what I was putting in was satisfactory. Having installed it & got all services working I found the light switch clicking was not quite correlating with the electrical switching. So I reassembled it. Then refitted it to find the starter wouldn't work. Mysterious? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 What about the other three lower left that are not connected ? Good gosh if any thing happens to those sleeve tags on the wires and one is say re-installing a control panel , that looks to be a real pain to have to trace and test every single connection ! While it keeps things compact I can understand how a hidden single bad contact could set the bundle on fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotBed Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 wot o clive, i had a look yesterday with a view to fitting a 7 pin trailer light socket on the back of my 44 k6 which was rebuilt in ashford REME workshops in 91 it has the same fittings and one colour wire :-( although it will be a easy to trace back from lights, yours looks a complete nightmare to trace back :cry: why the british army thought 1 colour wire was forward thinking i cannot seem to grasp:rotfl: was it to stop the enemy hot wireing our vehicles!!! or was there some deeper meaning maybe someone could enlighten me, i wish you well with your dilema regards graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 A busy squaddie causes less trouble? Or more probably some bean counter thought it would be a waste of money to buy diffrent coulerd wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 my 44 k6 which was rebuilt in ashford REME workshops in 91 it has the same fittings and one colour wire :-( why the british army thought 1 colour wire was forward thinking i cannot seem to grasp:rotfl: was it to stop the enemy hot wireing our vehicles!!! or was there some deeper meaning maybe someone could enlighten me, Hi Graham, Sparkies work in mysterious ways, that only they know. Normally there are printed sleeves on each end of the cable, but they fade over the years making it a much longer job to trace through. I guess when our Sparkies wired up the K6, they might not have put identifying sleeves on the cables. What it did mean was that a common cable could used, rather than carrying around a heap of the colour coded cables ( a military thing! ), nothing worse than tracing colours to find someone has used a wrong colour, which can cause confusion. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 But this is not ordnary wire, this is fibre reinforced wire! If you use an automatic wire stripper it will not cope with the fibre covering. There is a vast permutation of automotive wiring colours & tracer colours. It would be complicated to carry a complete stock of all combinations & expensive to manufacture with this quality of wire. Besides the colour codings for normal automotive functions doesn't take account of extra functions provided on a proper MV. Also if you didn't have the correct colour & trace colour what are you to do put in something that is the wrong colour to complicate it for some poor man in the future to be misled by. On manufacture the leads on the Switchboard & the recipient leads are fitted with yellow collars that are marked with their function. As Richard says these fade with time. I notice that some of the recipient leads are using collars that are made up from individual letters & digits. The leads on the left are for another unrelated function. The white labels I have just slipped on as there was some ambiguity & it is so easy to think that you will remember where they came from. So back to the problem. Having reassembled the switch & reconnected it all & knowing that all the switching functions previously worked, the starter motor now would not turn on. When I put a bulb test prod in the female connector it lights up when I press the start lever. When I trace the lead it connects to, it goes to the junction box with the ballast resistors to the starter itself. The starter has the 24v heavy duty supply working. But it won't start or click. Where is the fault? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingp Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 hi gents what do you reckon on my wiring!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 So back to the problem. Having reassembled the switch & reconnected it all & knowing that all the switching functions previously worked, the starter motor now would not turn on. When I put a bulb test prod in the female connector it lights up when I press the start lever. When I trace the lead it connects to, it goes to the junction box with the ballast resistors to the starter itself. The starter has the 24v heavy duty supply working. But it won't start or click. Where is the fault? What r you switching on or is it that the ballast resistor has a live 24 volt supply plus another which rotates the starter. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotBed Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 thank you richard and clive :bow::bow::bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 What r you switching on or is it that the ballast resistor has a live 24 volt supply plus another which rotates the starter. Andy I tested to find there is 24v inside that connector from the start lever when pressed. The connection to the junction box & then down to the starter is intact. The + & - supply to the starter motor are supplying power. But when I turn the start level it won't attempt to turn it. As Richard suggested it is a trick question, in a way it is but it was a trick that had me scratching my head for a while. Until I found the fault. I post it it here not just to tease but it could be a problem just waiting to happen for others! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 a hung up or stuck brush in the starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 a hung up or stuck brush in the starter A good suggestion, but there was not even any clicking from the solenoid. Yet it had all been working ok half an hour before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougiebarder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Did you get the polarity the wrong way round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 I see that the connector has a line around the middle -they're usually smooth. Is it a fuse holder? Did the fuse blow or fall out? Incidentally, the MOD headlights I fitted to my Rover 1 have the same connections, but the wires are colour coded. -Roger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 I see that the connector has a line around the middle -they're usually smooth. Roger very well done! You have spotted what has been staring everyone in the face. At first glance it looks what we are expecting to see. It is not a fuse holder, it is a connector. But it is for the next size up of plug, the bullet connectors go in & are held there by the rubber rim but the electrical contact is poor or non-existant. When I reassembled it the first time the plug from the starter lead must have just made contact. When I reconnected it for the second time it was not making contact. But poking the prod from the bulb tester inside it touched the metal inner & gave the impression that all was well! Seen side by side you can see the difference. The correct one is the upper one the wrong is the lower one. When they are all hanging from the rats nest of wires it is not easy to spot. One tends to assume what you see is correct as that is what you expect to see. An Army workshop recently had this sort of problem on a vehicle. Some nitwit had not realised that those double connectors are all in the same circuit. They had thought that they were merely two seperate conectors just joined by rubber. None of us would do that I'm sure, but when you look at things it can appear normal! Well spotted eagle-eyed Roger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul connor Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 ahh yes! My switchboard is also faulty, I have a champ one but it does not seem to be able to mate up correctly. I shall find a new one at WP hopefully. Also had to do temp repairs on the wiring loom as it has so many failed connectors. And now left hand indicator does not flash correctly, and the light switch has its own format of convoy settings. but WP and some good time and care and swearing will sort it out im sure! Thanks Clive! nice bit of advice with connector sleeves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Hooray! I won one! Do I get a prize? (I know, in heaven!) Cheers, -Roger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Paul the Champ one is the No.1 Mk1, which is what you should have. But in service could have been replaced by the Mk 6. I don't know what happened to Mks 2-5 they never get a mention. The most wear prone bit is the starter switch in the Mk 1 the terminals are brass & wear badly with time, mechanically & by arcing. The reassembly can be difficult with the linking contact being difficult to locate on the plastic barrel. The Mk 6 is a great improvement. The contacts are plated or of another metal & the linking contact has thin leaf spring behind it & centrally it is retained in place by its own little shaft into the main base plate. This maintains it in the correct centre of rotation, whereas the Mk 1 arrangement the contact deviates off axis as it wears more. The lighting switch is entirely different, not just the addition of convoy switching. But the switch on the Mk 1 has the contacts intergrated into the main base plate. Whereas the Mk 6 has total seperate slight that screws onto the base plate which has a hole for it. So there is no easy way to get a Mk 6 with its nicer ignition contact & downgrade it to look like Mk 1. I would (one at a time!) unplug every connector & if it doesn't need cleaning push it back in the double ended female connectors. Ensuring that there a firm plugging in feeling as you push them in. If not change the female connector or get some round jawed pliers & just give each end a slight nip so that it is a snap fit for the plug. Make sure that the rubber rim of the female overlaps the plug. This helps retain it mechanically & helps keep out the moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Do I get a prize? Apart from the justifiable smugness of spotting what others couldn't spot. I suppose I could award you the actual connector that was used in the making of this docu/drama/quiz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Apart from the justifiable smugness of spotting what others couldn't spot. I suppose I could award you the actual connector that was used in the making of this docu/drama/quiz. :rofl::rofl::rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 ahh yes! My switchboard is also faulty, I have a champ one but it does not seem to be able to mate up correctly. I shall find a new one at WP hopefully. Also had to do temp repairs on the wiring loom as it has so many failed connectors. And now left hand indicator does not flash correctly, and the light switch has its own format of convoy settings. but WP and some good time and care and swearing will sort it out im sure! Thanks Clive! nice bit of advice with connector sleeves! Wots wrong with the switchboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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