Carruthers Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 I'm repairing the rear body on my MW. I know Rick W is going to do one as well, but if anyone else is interested in some pix, info I can supply it, either PM or as a blog. Wonder if anyone has info on a little metal plate with a T on it about 2" sq on the body side near the front?? Also where were bodies made?? I've seen some pix of gilrs making up the parts in a factory. reason I ask is that I have radio body ready for my Morris C4 which I'm in the process of restoring but can't find any info about them or where they were built. I saw some paperwork about re-bodying a Guy Ant from GS to Radio from a company called Harrington. Any ideas?? Simon Also here's the link to a film I just helped a guy do for a BAFTA award. Blink and you'll miss it. http://www.60secondsoffame.co.uk/bafta/sixtysec/East/_entry/0000000016f808e6011721e5e779044e/jsps/entry?foneblog=1199113714943 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Simon, The "T" plate means that is Tropicalised, in other words, the timber is treated and suitable for tropical climates. I have seen this on a WOT2 GS FFW body and with the body plate as well, reckon it was a post war build, due to the Contract Number on the plate, also to because I think the "T" plate was introduced after the war. Body seemed to be of the same design though. Re. Harringtons, they were (maybe still are), coachbuilders (as in coaches) and I think were in Brighton. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Simon have a look at this link here http://www.thcoachwork.dsl.pipex.com/thhist.html History of Harringtons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 thanks for this info lads. Mark I'll check out the site. Richard, would the T plate have been used on desert vehicles or was 'tropical' jungle use? happy new year Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Richard, would the T plate have been used on desert vehicles or was 'tropical' jungle use? Simon, If you look at any postwar British military vehicle with a wood content in the body, it will have the "T" plate. I am not at all sure it was used actually during the War. Have you got the data plate off the side of the body? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 HI Richard, There's no data plates on the truck. Can't see anything stamped on it under passenger side door on chassis as suggested. I know the body came off another MW as it was a mate's before he sold it to the bloke i bought it off. He came to collect the truck with me so that was quite funny!!! It's an RAF body and the original, and only, paint is still on it. Mark, I'm e-mailing the Harrington boys after seeing the site you mentioned. Thanks. We'll see if there's any info from them. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Hi Simon, start a blog on that please, it will be most handy! Ive heard of the T plate before as Richard said it is tropicalised, makes you wonder if your body has been away and come back, or was just prepped for use in tropical. Have you come across any photos of the C8 in photos, apart from your dads. They all seem to be MW's in service as GS wagons, was this due to the amount of MWs produced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 HI mate. I wonder if the T bodies were just part of a Trop conract that never went overseas. Could be also that wood is different to non -trop. I thought that ash was used as it's very flexible and withstands vibration very well. The cross meember I'm replacing on the body I have is a very red colour. Def not ash... So maybe the different wood used meant that it could , if necessary, got to a trop environment, as opposed to another wood which would be not go in hot temps etc. They made about 66K MWs and when I got mine I expected that every photo I saw would be Bedford, but oh no, I would say the vast amount of 15cwt trucks I have in (many) books in my library are Fordsons. Dad's was a C4 MK2. Talking with Mike Kelly in OZ he reckons mine may be the only one with that body in the world when it's done, so i better get on with it.!!!!! Doubtless at that point another will appear!! Incidentaly I'm doing the Humber 1 ton truck for the next Military Machines mag... Now I'm off to watch the Spice Girls in telly...............!! Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedawnpatrol Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 Hi Simon I too will be building a wooden GS body for my 2nd C8, so any info you could give would be greatly appreciated. What about all the metal fittings? Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 Hi Jules, Apart from the blog ( it's on its way!!) what I can do is photo every part , angle and component and sent it you on CD. I have got several 'walkarounds' of other trucks and have GS body photos completed. Luckily my mate's CS8 GS sits next to my MW in storage so I can refer to it too. The only different seems to be the width, which I think is wider for the C8 than the MW, however the construction is the same, and like most things, once I've done it the first time at will be simple if I have to do it again. Ideally I would make one for the C8 but I'm concentrating on the rest of it being done. (nearly there!) First job is get on the Screwfix web site and order 100 M8 X 50 mm coach bolts ( about £3 - bargain!!). The metal fittings are 1 x 1/8 steel strip, 1.1/2 x 1.1/2 angle between the sides and the floor and 2.5 x 1/8 vertical strips which hold the side planking. I have some bady bits going Rick's way so you could see them at his place as I don't thing he's far from you. I'll get some photos up pronto but anything I can assist with consider it done mate. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 this chap in Auzzie land has drawings for the WD pattern but in this case Morris Commercial supplied 15cwt wooden body tub on his website - hope this link is a) not too late and b) works! http://www.geocities.com/vk3cz/GSBody.html John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedawnpatrol Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Thanks Simon, that would be great. I have my metal GS body on my Desert C8, so can get overall measurements from that, but it is the details I am in need of, plank sizes etc. Cheers all Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Cheers for posting link to Mike's site. Certainly some info, there. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radek Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Hi Guys, have somebody plans for 30cwt GS body for Austin? The plans for 15cwt are great!!!! :schocked: Many thanks Radek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 Hi boys, Sorry. I thought everyone would know about Mike Kelly's site in Oz, as we're all MCC people so I hadn't mentioned it...... The drawings are really good but they don't show the floor or the front end, however I think the info is brilliant and concise, and must have taken ages to produce. I have spoken to Mike and he asked for info that's missing and I can supply floor layout and dimensions so he can update the site and make that part more complete. Jules, I'll measure it up over the wekend to give you a starting point. If anyone with a GS body can look for me to see if their body fits onto the chassis rails with little blocks to hold it off, or if it sits on two cross rails. This is the missing piece of the jigsaw and I think it's the later suggestion that's correct. It stands to reason as every most chassis designs have a higher point over the rear axle, so the wooden body rails would have to be kacked up fir it to sit level. This is the design on the CS8 I have access to, but designs varied for truck to truck. For example the MW front of the body is the rear of the cab too. On the CS8/C4/C8 there's a gap for tool bins etc. I think the Morris body is wider by about 7" too. Radek, the 30cwt body construction uses the same design and plank sizes, but obviously it's bigger. CHecking around, it seems most of the surviving 3 tonners have steel bodies - no surprise there. I could measure up my mate's OY metal body to give you a start if you wanted.... Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 The original metal body on my C8 was held off the chassis by 4 metal box sections, which then attached to 2 sections running lengthways under the back body, if that helps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radek Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Hi Simon, It will be great for me. First I need plans for the wooden frame and how is fitted on the chassise. Any pictures help me. I have any pictures of Austins K, but not details. :-( http://www.hmvf.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6858.0 I am looking, that you have airborne trailer, is it british? I need help with my. I have US wiring and lamps. Still I have rear lucas lamps. Have you any pictures? http://www.hmvf.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=7036.0 Many thanks Radek Hi boys, Sorry. I thought everyone would know about Mike Kelly's site in Oz, as we're all MCC people so I hadn't mentioned it...... The drawings are really good but they don't show the floor or the front end, however I think the info is brilliant and concise, and must have taken ages to produce. I have spoken to Mike and he asked for info that's missing and I can supply floor layout and dimensions so he can update the site and make that part more complete. Jules, I'll measure it up over the wekend to give you a starting point. If anyone with a GS body can look for me to see if their body fits onto the chassis rails with little blocks to hold it off, or if it sits on two cross rails. This is the missing piece of the jigsaw and I think it's the later suggestion that's correct. It stands to reason as every most chassis designs have a higher point over the rear axle, so the wooden body rails would have to be kacked up fir it to sit level. This is the design on the CS8 I have access to, but designs varied for truck to truck. For example the MW front of the body is the rear of the cab too. On the CS8/C4/C8 there's a gap for tool bins etc. I think the Morris body is wider by about 7" too. Radek, the 30cwt body construction uses the same design and plank sizes, but obviously it's bigger. CHecking around, it seems most of the surviving 3 tonners have steel bodies - no surprise there. I could measure up my mate's OY metal body to give you a start if you wanted.... Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted January 9, 2008 Author Share Posted January 9, 2008 HI, Finally got round to loading these pix on showing the work so far on the MW's wooden body. Now I've replaced the broken crosspiece and the offside rear lengthwise piece I will start to re-construct the side planks and finally replace the floor. There's a bit of metal work to be done too. Pix to follow. Simon http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyframe001.jpg[/img] http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyframe004.jpg[/img] http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyframe006.jpg[/img] http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyframe005.jpg[/img] http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyframe.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Looks like your going to be busy, Simon. The joys of working with wood;............ :-) What are you using, by the way ?? All the best, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I'll second that. What wood is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 The wood?? Rik, it's your back garden fence. Look out the window!! :police: Seriously, It's a plained softwood from the local timber merchant. I explained that i needed ash or similar although, as i mentioned in earlier messages that the frame seems to be redwood. Metric to imperial sizes give a few probs but once that scarf joint is glued in place I'll drill and dowel it with 3/8 or 1/2 dowels. I'll prob add some side plates from 1/4 ply too. If the gluing surface is sound. If i can get a power sender in there I can true up the surfaces. Drilling out the coach bolts where they have rusted and expanded into the wood is time consuming but lots better than starting from scratch. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 The wood?? Rik, it's your back garden fence. Look out the window!! :police: Seriously, It's a plained softwood from the local timber merchant. I explained that i needed ash or similar although, as i mentioned in earlier messages that the frame seems to be redwood. Metric to imperial sizes give a few probs but once that scarf joint is glued in place I'll drill and dowel it with 3/8 or 1/2 dowels. I'll prob add some side plates from 1/4 ply too. If the gluing surface is sound. If i can get a power sender in there I can true up the surfaces. Drilling out the coach bolts where they have rusted and expanded into the wood is time consuming but lots better than starting from scratch. Simon Good Luck, Simon. Can you not drift the bolts out, after removing nuts, etc.........have had some success in the past doing this,.........(try and get something lubricating down alongside bolt body.......) Guess it really depends on how much room is around, - to hammer drift, etc. Just an idea, those coach bolts are B*oo*y HARD. :sweat: All the best, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 HI Andy, Only a couple of nuts have undone with a socket. Most have turned once and broken off. Prob seems to be the bolt shaft rusts and either expands and deteriorates or just seizes into the square hole for the domed end. Either way i have cut through the nut/end of bolt, then removed the dome head, then drilled out the material in the metal to reveal the original hole(s). As you say, the metal is incredibly hard. I bought a load from Screwfix and I'm replacing the plank sides where necessary at the moment. Hopefully some more pix to follow tomorrow. Only one vertical strap needed replacing as it was so corroded it was in pieces. 1/8 x 1.5 strip. I ground off the corners to it'll be exactly like the original. I'll give the whole thing a coat of varnish or sealer to seal the wood then paint it. If it stops raining I'll take a pic of the almost finished C8..... Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Sounds like you've got it sorted, Simon. Good luck dodging the rain drops............. :whistle: Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carruthers Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 Hi all, Here's the latest with the rear wooden body reconstruction: I have bought a load of wood. The planks for the sides/end should be 4" but I could only get 3.3/4" in 20mm thick. So I have also bought 6mm x 20 mm strip and am adding that it where necessary...... I have used a modelling hand plane to make the bevel aloung the edge. The first pic shows some original metal bits and two I have made. http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyjan08001.jpg[/img] The light is not great in the barn but you get the idea I hope.... The is the front panel as seen from the cab side http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyjan08010.jpg[/img] Nearside panel with a replaced top plank and lower bits ongoing http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyjan08008.jpg[/img] Some of the rotton wood being cut out. I am half way through removing it by hand and cutting it away with an electric jigsaw. Once I have figured out where the good wood starts I will make the last scarf cuts and add new bits. http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyjan08005.jpg[/img] The view inside from the tailgate. http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m58/krazy_kats/rearbodyjan08003.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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