Aussie Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 An idle thought (no pun intended) - Ferret #2 stopped after idling for a (long) while. while trying to jump start Ferret#1, which is trying very hard to do my head in. No spark from plugs but new ones were fine, so replaced and started on the button. Won't idle it for so long in future! The old plugs are should be serviceable but not sure of the best way to clean them - the side wire looks very fragile/flimsy. I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaner would work but there is a layer of insulation inside the hollow bit of the plug which the ultrasonics might vibrate off. I plan to experiment with one anyway - will just dip the dirty tip in, rather than the whole plug. Anyway, I'd be grateful for advice on how to do it properly. Do I just very carefully rub with wet and dry paper, or is there something I can dunk them in to clean them more thoroughly? Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoseman Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 When I had the classic cars we used to hold them over an open flame (gas cooker or blow torch) to burn any residue off then a SOFT wire brush, brass bristles or even hard nylon to clean. For light build up, rub the tip on an old tyre, don't advise using abrasive papers if looking delicate. Brake or carb cleaner will work too. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Are there any garages left who still have a spark plug cleaning machine, I wonder? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101 Ron Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) On my Alvis Stalwart I was having plug troubles mostly though carbon build up. A sparkplug cleaning machine is ideal, but hard to find these days. I have a cabinet sand blaster which I used and done the job. Carby cleaner sometimes will do the job ,but not always. I have found current Australian fuel is causing issues with the plugs on B series engines. Just recently on a rally seen a B40 engine foul it's plugs and it was hard to sort out on the side of the road with no spare plugs. My answer on the Stalwart was electronic ignition and civie protruded nose plugs. I have not had to take out a sparkplug since and have good starting ,idling and no ignition miss fires. Civie plugs are cheap. I couldn't find in Australia the self cleaning protruded nose suspressed military plug for the B series even though the Australian army used them when they first used the series Three Landrovers. The series Three military Landy were later usually converted to a civie ignition to improve reliability. Edited October 1, 2017 by 101 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) It is a 'rare metal' fine earth ground , often used on Land Rover FFR screened as a modern alternative - supposed to have a massive life-span (, the plug code will hold the clue) on material. This seems to have a fine tip too. You don't mess with - by way of re-gap , I would not even use a Harris fine brass brush. To clean , I would just do the same procedure as a common modern car O1 / O2 Oxy sensor - stand in petrol for 24 to 48 hours , you should find this on the internet. Edited October 1, 2017 by ruxy spelin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 The plugs used in the B Range engines were Champion RSN13P and have platinum tips. The gap is preset and you should not adjust them as the earthed tip can snap off. This grade was also used in the Jaguar J60 in CVR vehicles, when a problem came to light on these engines, an instruction was issued to replace the RSN13P with RSN12Y plugs (these are the type fitted to Land Rover 4 cylinder FFR engines). A lot of private owners now use the RSN12Y in the B Range engines as they start and run better, possibly because of the projected nose and they are much cheaper than the platinum types. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 Thanks Richard et al. A quick update on my trial of ultrasonic cleaner - it does work but I'm not all that impressed with the result, even after running it for around 24 hours, so it's not the "holy grail" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 1 hour ago, Aussie said: Thanks Richard et al. A quick update on my trial of ultrasonic cleaner - it does work but I'm not all that impressed with the result, even after running it for around 24 hours, so it's not the "holy grail" Hi Aussie, I recently bought an ultrasonic cleaner for carburettor cleaning, not as good as I had hoped but I think you have to go to a professional machine rather than those near bottom of market pricewise. It does get the stain off coffee mugs and clean your spectacles though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 4 hours ago, Aussie said: Thanks Richard et al. A quick update on my trial of ultrasonic cleaner - it does work but I'm not all that impressed with the result, even after running it for around 24 hours, so it's not the "holy grail" Perhaps a different cleaning solution will give better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trophy160 Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Just a comment on ultrasonic cleaners. I have a very small unit and it is pretty useless. This year I bought a good secondhand carb for the Saracen from Richard Banister, but on inspection it was still pretty gummed up inside. I sent it for professional ultrasonic cleaning, it came back looking absolutely new. However, that chap who di it said it had 8 hours in the ultrasonic bath, so I guess this form of cleaning whilst being good does take some time. Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 We have no problem idling our Ferrets in shows for up to an hour, although I hate doing it. That plug looks a bit carbon fouled. One thing I find about old school plugs is they are sensitive to fouling. Two things worth trying: 1) screw in the idle mixture screws to lean out the idle mixture as much as possible without affecting idle rpm and off-idle response (check carb base for warping if you can't get a smooth idle), and 2) inspect accelerator pump diaphragms for cracking and leakage, which is common on Ferrets (this makes them run really rich). Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 Thanks Malcolm Agree with your thoughts re the plugs and will try your suggestions. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.