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Scorpion/Scimitar Restoration in New Zealand


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Pleasing to see the changes.

Yes a good question and with the benefit of hindsight.  I guess the key to anything like this is your budget, availability of parts and, resources to be able to undertake a restoration like this.

I hope everyone out there is okay and this COVID thing isn't affecting you too much.  It has been winter here so a chance just to potter along with small bits and pieces. A spotlight was found wh

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I'm glad to see your retaining pins came out so easily, I'll be needing to replace a couple of mine that had to be drilled-out.

 

We then found a bit of accelerator linkage threaded rod about 1/4" which wound into the retaing pin and pulled it out. Job done and torsion bars removed and carefully marked 'left' and 'right' then we have a better than 50% chance of putting them back the correct side.

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I'm bemused as to why the ATDU were stripping engines?

 

Andy

 

Spoke to spike last night they removed the engine because the scorpion was being placed as a gate guardian it is still there at the D and M school Bovington . You can see it from the Tank museum car park.

 

Al

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Spoke to spike last night they removed the engine because the scorpion was being placed as a gate guardian it is still there at the D and M school Bovington . You can see it from the Tank museum car park.

 

Al

 

Ah!

 

Andy

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Spoke to spike last night they removed the engine because the scorpion was being placed as a gate guardian it is still there at the D and M school Bovington . You can see it from the Tank museum car park.

 

Al

 

Would be nice to see photo of Scorpion mentioned above. I wonder if the engine was any good when Spike removed it?

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Removal of the fuel tank is a similar story to other forums. The fuel cap ws completely seized and had to be forcibly removed. Several litres of fuel/water were removed (about 250 litres). The access plate was removed and the rest of the foul smelling liquid cleaned out. Seems to have crystalized. At this stage we have decided against removing the bladder as we are not sure that we will use this tank or install a separate smaller one considering most running will shorter and it will be easier to keep fresh fuel. The old fuel did still burn - not explosive like but it did make an impressive sight.

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Just a word of warning, if there is any rust pitting on the torsion bars (and they do look rusty) then it might be wise to replace as the pitting is likely to produce a fracture in use. This is why torsion bars have a coating or wrapping on them.

 

regards, Richard

The wrapping was mainly in place and most of the gunk was a mixture of oil and dirt. The end exposed appears okay but we will check them all as they are removed.

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excellent blog .

brings back fond memories ,I've restored an ex Belgian scimitar (as a sabre as that's the turret it came with)

you seem to be having all the same problems but its worth it in the end ,mines great fun to drive now although I still have some finishing off to do .

best wishes

justin

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I like your Carbon footprint! You might have to buy some "Carbon Credits " to offset your emissions in clean/green NZ,Cheers:-)

 

Do you have any "Carbon Credits" in stock? If so, add them to the list for Friday.

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excellent blog .

brings back fond memories ,I've restored an ex Belgian scimitar (as a sabre as that's the turret it came with)

you seem to be having all the same problems but its worth it in the end ,mines great fun to drive now although I still have some finishing off to do .

best wishes

justin

 

 

Thanks Justin. They are certainly nice to drive (in my brief experience) and we are looking forward to bringing it back to life.

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May be a good idea to ditch the fuel bladder , when we did turret lifts the mechanics would often change the bladder because they were troublesome , I don't remember the reason why ? but we would always make sure they were filled up before they came in for the turret lift as any fuel in the bladder was written off. it always found its way into our private cars:cool2:

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You going to be doing a raid on The Tank Factory!, I will make sure the sentries are posted.:-)

 

An easy way around the sentries is fresh donuts and the Tank Factory doors open.

Picked up some bins today which we didn't have room for on our last vist. Luckily I was in the area with work. Nice ex NZ army in Merdec cammo scheme.

 

Also got to to view the Valentine that is in the Factory being restored currently. See -

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?50645-restoration-of-a-valentine-MK5-tank-started

 

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The front torsion bar channel required repairs as well as the flotation screen skirt which had probably been damaged after being lifted and moved by forklifts or the like. These repairs we had an engineer undertake.

 

 

 

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I'm very interested in knowing what alloy you used for your sponson patch. Mine was patched with an incompatible alloy (6061 I suspect) at some point and rotted away quite badly. I'm also curious to know if you chose to follow the Repaircraft instructions and MIG your repairs or if you went with TIG? Did you use AL 5556 or some other filler?

 

The front torsion bar channel required repairs as well as the flotation screen skirt which had probably been damaged after being lifted and moved by forklifts or the like. These repairs we had an engineer undertake.

 

 

 

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Never mind. Quality repair, I always had the aggrigates to rub my aluminium welding down when I had a tipper body to repair. Some loader drivers thought it was their mission in life to get the load around the propshaft through the floor.

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I'm very interested in knowing what alloy you used for your sponson patch. Mine was patched with an incompatible alloy (6061 I suspect) at some point and rotted away quite badly. I'm also curious to know if you chose to follow the Repaircraft instructions and MIG your repairs or if you went with TIG? Did you use AL 5556 or some other filler?

 

Caught up with the engineer today to find out what was used and how repairs done. Tig weld, 5056 grade alloy and 5356 filler rods from what he remembers. We put some alloy flat right around the bottom of the sponson to give a bit more bulk and support.

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