LarryH57 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I'm looking to build a double garage at the end of my garden as I have rear access, and according to the council I can built the garage up to a max of 4 metres high (and without planning permission) but I can't find any prefabs that fit the bill, as I want to have a high ceiling and doors on it to match so that I can cater to a range of MVs of medium size that would not fit is a standard garage. Has anyone had a garage built to their own design to cater for their MV. The problem I have with a double garage is that the opening needs a sturdy RSJ to avoid having a central and vertical support in the opening which defeats the usefulness of a double garage. Also the design of the doors needs to be easy to open but not that easy for a thief, so what have you got? I'd be interested in photos of you various designs, or details of a firm that can do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadawg Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I'm looking to build a double garage at the end of my garden as I have rear access, and according to the council I can built the garage up to a max of 4 metres high (and without planning permission) but I can't find any prefabs that fit the bill, as I want to have a high ceiling and doors on it to match so that I can cater to a range of MVs of medium size that would not fit is a standard garage. Has anyone had a garage built to their own design to cater for their MV. The problem I have with a double garage is that the opening needs a sturdy RSJ to avoid having a central and vertical support in the opening which defeats the usefulness of a double garage. Also the design of the doors needs to be easy to open but not that easy for a thief, so what have you got? I'd be interested in photos of you various designs, or details of a firm that can do the job. I assume you have local outfits that produce and install pole barn type buildings. Here is a link to a US vendor, but metal building vendors should be around everywhere. The website below lets you get pricing based on size, configuration, etc., so you can have an idea at least... http://www.gaport.com/garages.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Packhow75 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Try these people... http://www.gtevans.co.uk/romney.htm THey do Nissen huts and other steel buildings too. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 You find might a building that suits your needs here:- http://www.rbscotland.co.uk/industrial-gallery/ A mono pitch roof is best if the planners don't require you to have a pitched roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCBOY Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 How about Multiframe Buildings in Sussex. http://www.multiframebuildings.co.uk They have put buildings up for someone I know and they also do motor houses. Apparently good quality work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Biuild it yourself. I assume you have space for a two car garage, i think its 30 sq m maximum but you will have to check that with the council... Start with a concrete base with two car pits...make sure they are the entire length of the garage and they are wired via tubes ready for connection to the mains power ring. ie run the electric cables underground in a sealed pipe, bring it out somewhere inside the footings near to a wall... 6 inch reinforced concrete will take a tank, you could use 4 inch reinforced but i would always use 6 inch...make sure you fit DPM under the concrete and under the car pits. Build a stub wall 4 foot high with thermal blocks on the inside...then build a timber framed structure for the garage. Make the roof exactly 4m at the eaves closest to the road way depending upon where you want the fall of the flat roof you will only need a couple of inches height difference. the walls will need to be made of 6 inch timber although you could do 4 x 2 if price is an issue. on the outside stick 1/4 ply cover with waterproof paper and then use ship lap timber to cover...on the inside sue 3/4 inch ply to give you good strong walls to easily fix tools and other items...the walls will need to carry heavy timbers for the roof, I recommend a timber beam of 6 x2 three off around the top edge of the structure, the wall plate as its called...to carry the roof beams... and to use the odd doubled up upright to ensure good strength in the whole structure, screw everything no nails... fix as many windows as possible to make it appear more enticing and if you can i would fit a small pitched roof on the house side that brings the roof line down to make it look a bit more palatable. On the road side bring the roof edging down with a large barge board to again make the walls look proportional. us 9 inch roof beams with 600 mm spacing, 800 if your really mean, fill with Celotex insulation. Affix to the roof beams metal supports that will hold a lifting eye.., these need to be located all over the roof area to allow you to fix lifting gear from time to time...they will never be in the right place but hopefully you can fix to two or three and spread any load but also position it directly to where you want to lift an item...for the lifting eyes ideally you want a metal spreader on top of the main beams of at least 4 mm steel fixed over at least two joists, and one or two noggins... you can leave the roof joists open like this or fill in with timber/plywood or plasterbaord. Fibre glass the roof for long life and fit two or four skylights as you like to provide natural light from above, you can buy off the shelf skylights, nice and cheap but make sure you build your own upstand to fit the skylight, as specially made Skylights cost the earth...don't bother with opening skylights. wire for at least a double plug at just above workbench height ever 2 feet. install loads of lights in the pits and on the walls and ceilings but also around your workbench. install a multifuel burner, this is great for getting rid of bits that are not damaging to the environment but fill up the bin...and will add a lot of heat, but ideally get a back boiler type so you can heat the whole garage...not too expensive and burning a few oily rags and logs and a bit of coal woill help keep you cosy warm. have a sink with hot and cold water...if you cannot get it to drain into the main sewer, dig a soak away, (not totally legal these days) but workable as long as you dont throw foul or dangerous items down the drain like paint or oil etc...and just put soapy water... Install solar panels on the roof to charge batteries and make you a few bob too... have a back door and a garage door, roller shutter doors are great, and not too expensive and are good for security... this is a timber building it will burn faster than you can shake a stick at it if you start a fire, so make sure you have four fire extinguishers and a water supply with a hose connected permanently for use as a fire extinguisher... install a fire alarm and smoke detector, but fumes form the trucks oil or petrol tanks can set them off so you need the thermal type detector rather than a smoke detector...some of the newer ionisation units are really clever at differentiating and can be set re sensitivity...but for peace of mind have it wired to a sounder in the house... the rest is personal taste I suppose, window location, noise suppression, tv aerials other amenities, toilet etc... just a few ideas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) The 30 square metre max. without all the bother of council approvals. There are a few more rules :- Off the top of my head 1. Must not be in a conservation area. Also must be within the house curtilage , with garden should be no problem - gath or field adjoining is not curtilage. 2. Max. to apex. 4m 3. Max. to eaves 2.5 m 4. If made from combustible materiels (external) - then it must be a certain distance from the dwelling (I think this is 15 feet) 5. Must be behind the house "building line" / building line(s) , (frontage to adj. highway) ------------- Roof - you will probably find that if you go for a clear-span in excess - of abt. 12ft , then the cost of the structure for superimposed load goes through the roof.. Edited April 30, 2015 by ruxy spelin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH57 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks for all your posts. Fulltilt's post is correct and luckily I'm not in a conservation area. The buildings that are on the web are either too massive and too long or have doors that restrict the height or have a central pillar in the door opening. I have a space 18ft by 18ft approx. for the garage which would still leave another 12ft of garden width as a hard standing for a car or other MV! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks for all your posts. Fulltilt's post is correct and luckily I'm not in a conservation area. The buildings that are on the web are either too massive and too long or have doors that restrict the height or have a central pillar in the door opening. I have a space 18ft by 18ft approx. for the garage which would still leave another 12ft of garden width as a hard standing for a car or other MV! I would build as we do on the farm, s/h telephone or electric poles for the uprights, s/h timber which has been reclaimed from old mills or factory buildings, it's been seasoned properly before original use and is often oil soaked and lasts indefinitely, obtain suitable sizes for roof joists and intermediates for cladding. We usually block wall to a height of about 5ft but can clad to ground level for light applications.There is a huge choice of cladding available, depends on how much you want to spend. If you don't want to build yourself I would recommend you try agricultural building mfrs, they have a big range of standard sizes but will usually make up any size you require. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 If you don't want to build yourself I would recommend you try agricultural building mfrs, they have a big range of standard sizes but will usually make up any size you require. Seconded - they can be surprisingly cheap, too. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 3/4" finish tanalised Birch ply 8x4 std. bolt up modules using Canadian decking joists - very solid , outer horizontal rails similar joists - to these are nailed the vertical T&G tanalised. 1/2" finish tanalised roof gives immediate standing to do the fake slate roof. Plenty of gable overhang so sides don't get rain-water , all roof timbers tanalised , then quality tanalised fascia boards , undercloak & barge boards when I get round to it. Designed so additional windows can be jig-sawed out as / when required as build progresses & more natural light needed. Front has much extended roof (as rear even but more) , to soften the high eaves & for 4ft decking covered veranda Floor area (internal) 30 square M exact more or less. Brick / block is cheaper , abt. £1,000 material costs for roof , walls - IIRC abt. the same , add another £1,000 for T&G cleading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 3/4" finish tanalised Birch ply 8x4 std. bolt up modules using Canadian decking joists - very solid , outer horizontal rails similar joists - to these are nailed the vertical T&G tanalised. 1/2" finish tanalised roof gives immediate standing to do the fake slate roof. Plenty of gable overhang so sides don't get rain-water , all roof timbers tanalised , then quality tanalised fascia boards , undercloak & barge boards when I get round to it. Designed so additional windows can be jig-sawed out as / when required as build progresses & more natural light needed. Front has much extended roof (as rear even but more) , to soften the high eaves & for 4ft decking covered veranda Floor area (internal) 30 square M exact more or less. Brick / block is cheaper , abt. £1,000 material costs for roof , walls - IIRC abt. the same , add another £1,000 for T&G cleading. You used my plans. I think the regs have changed re the height at the edge of property and the overall height..., if you have a flat roof you can work it a bit higher but double check as its been a couple of years since i did these types of buildings in back gardens. Farm building manufacturers are dirt cheap for a lot of area... I use the slate and tingle system a lot, monotonous but very resilient in high winds...flat roof with fibre glass great too..I use that on flat roofs all the time, instead of felt etc..but totally agree with a high roof you need to break up the look and having a bit of a pitched over hang and covered walkway can always add to the look of a place and you can always fill it in with clear plastic panels to have a dry storage area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 You used my plans. I think the regs have changed re the height at the edge of property and the overall height..., if you have a flat roof you can work it a bit higher but double check as its been a couple of years since i did these types of buildings in back gardens. Farm building manufacturers are dirt cheap for a lot of area... I use the slate and tingle system a lot, monotonous but very resilient in high winds...flat roof with fibre glass great too..I use that on flat roofs all the time, instead of felt etc..but totally agree with a high roof you need to break up the look and having a bit of a pitched over hang and covered walkway can always add to the look of a place and you can always fill it in with clear plastic panels to have a dry storage area... BUT , mine is getting the Bothy 6 feet away , brick,stone & Rosemary tiled roof , CI pot belly stove , interconnection tunnel (non. combustible brick/block etc. May need a induced or forced draught fan to move a bit of warm air into the workshop (that is to be well insulated too) - in fact I may end up with a bed LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 BUT , mine is getting the Bothy 6 feet away , brick,stone & Rosemary tiled roof , CI pot belly stove , interconnection tunnel (non. combustible brick/block etc. May need a induced or forced draught fan to move a bit of warm air into the workshop (that is to be well insulated too) - in fact I may end up with a bed LoL thats my kind of place.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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