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Seized Alloy Electrical Plug


Charlie

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Hi all,

 

Does anyone have any magical tips on un-seizing the alloy plugs. As you can see the swivel above totally corroded and disintegrated. It has been soaking in plusgas for a week now and even with tentative taps still won’t budge. Or is this a case of cut it off and buy a new one? Its about 3 inches in diameter and is the belt driven alternator off a FV432 B81.

 

Cheers,

 

Charlie

 

IMG_0849.jpg

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I found this stuff quite helpful & to use a strap wrench. The strap ensures that the plug isn't crushed which can make it stick tighter & leaves the plug unmarked.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREEZE-SPRAY-RELEASE-SEIZED-NUTS-SCREWS-RUSTED-JOINTS-HINGES-PENETRATING-OIL-/151250259532?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item233737ce4c

 

But looks like you'll need a new plug anyway.

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I used an adjustable pipe wrench, to undo the many connectors on the Chieftain electrical control systems, during my time as an ECE. The jaws can be adjusted to the correct size for each plug so do not squeeze the ferrule. Saved many a knuckle from damage (my knuckles that is!)

Edited by merlin
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Try heat - small mini butane torch directed at the metal to metal joint, but not red hot of course.

 

Diana

 

 

Hi all,

 

Does anyone have any magical tips on un-seizing the alloy plugs. As you can see the swivel above totally corroded and disintegrated. It has been soaking in plusgas for a week now and even with tentative taps still won’t budge. Or is this a case of cut it off and buy a new one? Its about 3 inches in diameter and is the belt driven alternator off a FV432 B81.

 

Cheers,

 

Charlie

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These things can be a real pain, the threads are very fine and corrode easily. I take it you've tried doing it up slightly first? It's also worthwhile wiggling the cable end of the connector if you can.

 

On the tool front, I find the jam jar opener rubber strap wrenches ideal for these. Available cheaply from your local supermarket.

 

When you get it apart, remember to put a smear of copper grease on it when reassembling!

 

Andy

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And how long the heat is applied for! When de-soldering (which I know is a slightly different issue) I generally find that a lot of heat applied quickly does less collateral damage than modest heat that is applied for a long time to reach a useful temperature. But the same will apply if relying on heat to cause expansion to break the corrosion gluing the threads of plug and socket together - it will only work if the plug expands before the socket.

 

Having said that if the connector is already damaged beyond reuse I think I would be more tempted to cut and split the locking ring on the plug and then prise it off the socket to minimise damage to the thread on the socket. The cuts can be made using something like a dremel to avoid going too deep. I would ideally cut twice on opposite sides of the plug.

 

Iain

Edited by g0ozs
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Advice I got third hand from an outboard motor mechanic: on aluminum fittings that are siezed with corrosion,

use . .wait for it . . . . . . . . . insect spray!!

 

I have tried it and it works. Dunno which brands work best, but I have used cheapies in spray cans and whoa! the aluminum lets go and the bits come apart without further damage. I have used it mainly on steel studs/bolts in alloy housings.

 

Re-assemble dry.

 

Lets know how it goes.

 

Sam, downunder.

Edited by kw573
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Advice I got third hand from an outboard motor mechanic: on aluminum fittings that are siezed with corrosion,

use . .wait for it . . . . . . . . . insect spray!!

 

I have tried it and it works. Dunno which brands work best, but I have used cheapies in spray cans and whoa! the aluminum lets go and the bits come apart without further damage. I have used it mainly on steel studs/bolts in alloy housings.

 

Re-assemble dry.

 

Lets know how it goes.

 

Sam, downunder.

 

I hadn't heard that idea before!

 

Andy

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