Lauren Child Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Today I changed the fan belts on the CMP. To get to them I had to remove the radiator and I've found the pipes at the bottom are rather more corroded then those at the top. Not having removed a radiator before, I'm wondering how normal it is and whether I need to take action while the radiator is out. The rest of the rad is in really good condition. Here's the pics - can I get some advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 try a local rad company , no point putting it back in mate .they should be able to sort it for you ............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcot1751 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 try a local rad company , no point putting it back in mate .they should be able to sort it for you ............. I took my jeep rad to a local company and they had it done and dusted in three days no problem. You can also have the core uprated to provide better cooling if that's an issue at the same time. One thing, to stop it happening again ALWAYS use the proper anti freeze mix summer and winter as it also contains a corrosion inhibitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 I took my jeep rad to a local company and they had it done and dusted in three days no problem. You can also have the core uprated to provide better cooling if that's an issue at the same time. One thing, to stop it happening again ALWAYS use the proper anti freeze mix summer and winter as it also contains a corrosion inhibitor. same here with ours , and munga , better safe than sorry .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Thanks all - will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Before going the whole hog and getting it recored. Have it prssure tested and cleaned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Back flush the block as well all that lovely orange stuff will be in the water passages of the block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Forte make a bio rad flush. I tried the stuff in a Nissan Bluebird that supposedley had been regularly srviced since new, yeah right! But that's another bit of the tale. The coolant came out of the bottom hose like black treacle! I kid you not! The Bio flush was poured in and left overnight then the engine started brought up to temp and flushed with a hose. Took two attempts but the result was fantastic. Completly clean, no nasty side effects on water pump or gaskets. http://www.forteuk.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Washing soda, plenty of it and left in for a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 looks like it's quite far gone, probably best to let a radiator repair guy have a shufti at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) On this one I'm not too worried about the cores - they look in good nick from a look inside and out. The tubes on the bottom are more corroded than the rest of the radiator, so I want to stop further damage and repair as needed. A flush is definitely on the cards when she's back together. Edited August 12, 2013 by Lauren Child Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoseman Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 On this one I'm not too worried about the cores - they look in good nick from a look inside and out. The tubes on the bottom are more corroded than the rest of the radiator, so I want to stop further damage and repair as needed. A flush is definitely on the cards when she's back together. A radiator specialist will replace the bottom pipes (stubs) and check radiator as part of the job if asked. Bin sitting for a while or not regularly used?? All that crud just sits in bottom half of radiator and engine block! Thats why even a vehicle thats laid up should be run up hot at least once a week, keep things circulated. Check condition of hoses too. they will rot from the inside out. I would change as a matter of course to be on the safe side. Thermostat not crudded up to?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big ray Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I put a couple of handfulls of Soda Crystals into my radiators, run for the season, then flush.... it softens the water and removes the rubbish, keeps the system nice and clean, which also means better cooling efficiency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 Thanks, I'll use the opportunity of having drained the system to have a good look at the hoses and thermostats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.