Jessie The Jeep Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) A job done on Thursday was to clean out the electrolysis bath, and line it with polyester resin, reinforcing and sealing the corners with glass cloth. This was because the plastic liner started leaking slowly due to tiny punctures from the sharp metal. There had been a bad repair on the end of one prop shaft, with pitted and slag contaminated welds. All the bad areas were ground away with the angle grinder, and new weld built up in its place. Here's the shaft after the original weld was ground back. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) The new weld was built up slowly, making sure all the slag was knocked off before the next part was welded. It was ground back with the angle grinder to taper the weld into the rest of the shaft, and then low spots re-welded again. Once the weld was pretty much complete, it was dressed with a powerfile to leave a smooth repair. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) Here's the finished repair. After repairs, both shafts were primed and painted. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) Here's the brake shoe backing plate now fitted to the rear axle. The new cylinders are also fitted, although I still need one fixing bolt for the other side, as there was one missing. The backing plate bolts were touched up with the airbrush after fitting. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) I started re-fitting the diff cover and got to the third from last bolt which sheared off. Grrrrrrr. I wasn't even putting much effort into the tightening. All the bolts were undone again, and fortunately there was just enough of the sheared bolt left to get some pliers on to remove it. The remaining bolts were then re-fitted again. The last job of the day was to strip the brake shoes and get them painted so the linings can be fitted once dry. That will then allow the rear hubs to be assembled. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 May I caution you on the repair, you may want to have the balance checked on that shaft before you reinstall it. With the weight of the weld, you may have a introduced a vibration, any good drive shaft shop can check it for you. John G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big ray Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 May I caution you on the repair, you may want to have the balance checked on that shaft before you reinstall it. With the weight of the weld, you may have a introduced a vibration, any good drive shaft shop can check it for you. John G Absolutely correct, good sound advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Garrison Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 I would agree with that advice also. It doesn't take much to put it 'out of whack' and it's not much fun when it all goes wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 10, 2012 Author Share Posted June 10, 2012 It's spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) I was about to re-fit the half shafts to the rear axle, then realised they still needed cleaning and painting. After a good wire brushing, and the extraction threads cleaning out of crud and re-tapping, they were primed along with the bolt heads. One shaft has a clear 'f' mark while the other is quite pitted on the surface, so it's difficult to tell. While they were drying, I moved to the garage to start work on the chassis. I started at the rear cross member, which was quite rotten in the centre behind the pintle hook reinforcing plate. After the rear face of the crossmember was cut out, an aluminium 'U' channel was clamped along the underside to keep it straight. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) A piece of steel was cut to fit, and held in place with magnetic clamps. Once welded in place, I cut the top out of the crossmember, and moved the 'U' channel to the rear face of the crossmember. A new top strip was cut and then welded in place. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHillyard Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) Thanks. The chassis was then turned over and the underside section cut out. A piece of straight steel was clamped against the new bottom section to keep it true until the welds would hold it. Now the welds on the new section just need dressing and the radius adding on the top and bottom rear edge. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) The outer ends of the crossmember were both kinked forwards, so a small section was cut out to allow them to be straightened. After straightening, the gap had a small piece of scrap steel welded in. It doesn't look much for several hours tinkering, but there was lots of trial fitting and trimming needed to get the parts to fit with a minimun of gaps. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepfinger Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hi Steve, If I was you, I would remove them over-large bleed nipples on your brake cylinders. I don't like them, in fear that they may snap off:mad: Mini ones should fit. Regards, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Having found the normal nipples on my Jeep a pain to use, I'm quite happy to leave these extended ones on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) It's been a couple of weeks since an update, so here we go. I've had a few days out preparing and going to the Yorkshire Wartime Experience, then drying everything out once home! This is the chassis section where the 'A' frame is riveted. 68 years of damp had rotted out the area between the chassis and 'A' frame in places, mostly on the 'A' frame. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) The rear cross member, once tidied up, was given a coat of red oxide to keep any moisture out. It needs a further coat before final painting. While inspecting the chassis for areas needing attention, I found 'f' marks on each inner chassis rail, hidden under the engine mounting bracket. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) Part of the inner chassis rail was rotten near one of the front spring hangers. The rest of the inner rail and all of the outer rail was pretty sound, so just a small area of the inner face was cut out. The replacement piece was carefully welded to the inner bottom section and radiused with the grinder to match the rest of the rail. The front bumper mounts need some work, but the bumper needed repairing first. One of the edges of the 'U' channel was very rotten or very thin, so this was cut out. Fortunately the 'f' marked area on the main face of the bumper, was well away from any rot or where the brackets had been welded for the winch. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) A new strip of steel was tacked on to the bumper while it was clamped to a straight edge. The inner corner was then filled with weld so that the outer edge could be radiused to match the original. The other side of the bumper only needed a few small areas replacing. There are a number of additional holes that have been drilled in the front, plus the damage from the grinder from cutting off the winch brackets to be repaired. The second set of 'f' marked fenders I got are in pretty good condition, just needing some minor repairs. Rather than use them, I've decided to sell them as I saw a similar set reach a good price on Ebay recently. I've decided to repair the set that was on the Jeep which have quite a bit of rot around the hat channel and overlapping rear seam. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) Rather than spend money on a complete hat channel, I'm just fabricating the rotten pieces from flat sheet. The repaired channel. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) The edge where the fender bolts to the tub was also quite rotten, plus along the bottom beside the step, so both have been replaced and are seet here before the welds are ground flush. On the inside, the inner part of the overlapping seam has been replaced. I don't have a spot welder, so instead, burned five holes in the piece, clamped it in place and filled the holes, welding through to the outer skin. That was where I was up to at the end of today. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) I've been away for a week for the Bolero event, so only now catching up with my posts from before and since. Before I went away, I got the brake pipes made for both axles. The 'S' bends on the steering knuckles weren't as difficult as I was expecting. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) The pipe flaring tool made the job very simple and it wasn't too long before all the pipework was complete. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessie The Jeep Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) The steering belcrank king pin was also worn, and I decided that also needed changing. The cotter pin was a nightmare to remove, requiring the gas torch on the axle, and hammering away for at least thirty minutes. However the main pin came out in a couple of taps of the hammer. I don't think it's ever been changed in the lifetime of the Jeep. Edited October 21, 2020 by Jessie The Jeep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.