fesm_ndt Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Anyone know of the applicable adhesive, preferably sold by a big brand name for gluing Vinyl canvas? this stuff is meant to be the best but I don't see any for sale over here http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_listing.asp_Q_CatID_E_406_A_SubCatID_E_426_A_ProdID_E_3262 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philb Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 I built a complete tilt for a pick-up from nylon reinforced vinyl and used (as directed by the vinyl supplier) solvent adhesive designed for PVC/ABS plumbing joints. It served well for the 15 years I kept the vehicle with no failures of the lapped and glued joints. Should be easy to get hold of wherever you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 I built a complete tilt for a pick-up from nylon reinforced vinyl and used (as directed by the vinyl supplier) solvent adhesive designed for PVC/ABS plumbing joints. It served well for the 15 years I kept the vehicle with no failures of the lapped and glued joints. Should be easy to get hold of wherever you are. Would that be that sickly smelly blue stuff? Cheers, I will have to try that I tried the model glue that you paint on with a brush that kinda melts both surfaces as thats how the Vinyl glue was described but would not penetrate the canvas. I think that original model glue was an MEK derivitive so pehaps it isnt anymore as didnt seem to be same same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 If the material is like that on curtainside trucks, then they "weld" it. Try finding a tarpaulin repairer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 If the material is like that on curtainside trucks, then they "weld" it. Try finding a tarpaulin repairer. The areas I am looking at are bonded as in the middle where the aircom comes through. mind you I should experiment with welding myself on some scrap as would look nicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philb Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 As Richard said, welding is very good and is well suited to manufacturing because it is fast and does not require delicate handling immediately after joining (in a glued joint it can take a while for the solvent to evaporate sufficiently for the joint to attain handling strength). Although, especially if more than two leaves are being joined, the welds can take a while to cool down and gain strength. A good DIY welding technique (unless you want to make heated spring loaded rollers or specially shaped irons for eyelets, corners etc.) is to use a hot air gun with a fine nozzle on it. That can be used to heat/melt the inside of the joint without spoiling the outside finish. I've managed to do small jobs like this and it works quite well. If you control the heat very carefully this is also a good technique for welding high density polyethylene as used for some fuel filler pipes and tanks (and doubtless many other things on newish vehicles). But (if I may start a sentence so) it's only the inner faces of the PVC that bond in either process, not the strong nylon (or whatever) mesh. So, except for the potential to make a mess, solvent gluing should be as good as anything. There's always the option to rivet or stitch reinforcement at highly stressed points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 Yes this is the thick canvas with no fibre, like boat sails Funny enough I bought a heat gun 2 days ago (as it was cheap - no other reason!) Will have a play this weekend and see what I can do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protruck Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Hi Mike. Not sure if this is any good for you. http://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/product/eb_PIPE/pipe-weld-pvc-cement-clear-250ml-box-of-12/ All so. Hope this is of help. Clive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Reminds me, nearly the weekend so I better get to the hardware shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted January 1, 2011 Author Share Posted January 1, 2011 I bought some glue :cool2: Not quite sure on the instructions though so will see how the results are of the sample I glued today [ATTACH]39372[/ATTACH] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 Good luck deciphering the tin! :shocked: I notice it has No.2 on it, hope you haven't bought one half of a two-pack adhesive??? Let us know the results, i'm going to be making a couple of fume curtains very soon, this would be an ideal solution (pardon the pun!) Alec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted January 1, 2011 Author Share Posted January 1, 2011 Good luck deciphering the tin! :shocked: I notice it has No.2 on it, hope you haven't bought one half of a two-pack adhesive??? Let us know the results, i'm going to be making a couple of fume curtains very soon, this would be an ideal solution (pardon the pun!) Alec. yeah I thought you guys would get a smile out of it. It's Japanese so meant to be good but did a test today and it peeled but never left it too long. Left it over night with a weight on in so will see tomorrow Perhaps I should have bought the Chinese stuff as that will surely have ozone depleting biohazards in it that would stick well. May buy a few different ones as no real hurry as yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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