Cornishbloke Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 Hi I'm having a problem with the main batteries on the Scorpion. When left on the vehicle with the master switch off, they drain to absolute flat within a week. By absolute flat I mean that they do not have the power to illuminate the ignition/oil pressure lights or drive the fuel pump. However, having charged them and let them stand for a week disconnected from the vehicle they hold their charge and she starts first time. It seems to me that there is a live circuit that is discharging them even when the main switch is off. Does anyone have any ideas as to which one it is likely to be or how I can start to find them. I have tried connecting a test lamp between the battery post and the power cable whilst disconnected and it only lights when the master and ignition is on. Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 Have you put a proper tester on the batteries to check they really are A1? Or a couple of these from Frost They repalce the battery connector so stay on and you just unscrew the nut. Great pice of kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornishbloke Posted July 26, 2010 Author Share Posted July 26, 2010 Hi I used a drop tester on each one - no visible flicker of the needle even though you could do toast on the tester's element. I'm looking at the fire warning system or the generator relay at the moment. The little switch looks like a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agripper Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Try the intercom circuit. On mine the feed for the power box seems to be outside the cutoff switch. I have the same on my sabre. Its ok for a short time. But any longer than a few days and it starts to run down. I disconnect the batteries when doing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Try the intercom circuit. On mine the feed for the power box seems to be outside the cutoff switch. I have the same on my sabre. Its ok for a short time. But any longer than a few days and it starts to run down. I disconnect the batteries when doing anything. Good advice on John Pearsos 438 we had the same problem it was the firewire that was draning the batteries which was live even when the master switch was switched off. Dont know if the scorp has a firewire system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornishbloke Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 Hi Thanks both for this. The firewire system is designed to be live all the time and it's my first thought. I'm going to see whether I can find a fuse as it's incomplete anyway. Thanks for the tip about the intercom, I'll give that a look at as well. Over the years I've found that a Scorp with a flat battery is a real PITA. I'm working on a keep alive using an intelligent charger, but at the moment the drain exceeds the charge! Regards Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornishbloke Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share Posted August 25, 2010 I've been looking for a cause and think that I have isolated it. If the engine is started and the charging lamp on the main box goes out then when I disconnect the batteries I get a loud clonk from the distribution panel on the bulkhead in front of the driver. If on the other hand I do not start the engine then there is no clonk. All this takes place after the master and ignition switches are off. I am assuming that this is something to do with the generator activation circuit. I have recently changed the main box with the master cut out on it, and from memory the previous one when switched off used to power this down. I could hear the clonk when the switch was thrown. Any ideas - is there a preferred combination of master switch box and generator control panel or could I have got something the wrong way round? Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Silly question perhaps, but when you say you've changed the box, is it the same model of box? I think the later ones (Stormer/Shielder) are different and have a relay-operated battery master switch. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornishbloke Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 Fair point - I'll look for a MOD plate. It does look like the "normal" CVRT one and all of the connections fitted straight on. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 The master switch box on the CVRT is the same for all variants. Stormer is completely different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 The master switch box on the CVRT is the same for all variants. Stormer is completely different. You're right - I didn't have my CVR(T) info to hand at the time! The distribution panel contains three relays, one for the NBC pack, one for the cooking vessel and one for starter motor thermal protection. It sounds to me from your description that one of these isn't dropping out when it should, and the current through the relay coil is enough to drain the batteries? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornishbloke Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 Sorted the problem . The main generator solenoid was not releasing as the return spring on one of the actuating solenoids had popped off. Odd arrangement whereby the spring locates along the thread of a small bolt and it had lost its tension. Anyway, lots of good clunking when the ignition is turned off and no sparks at the battery terminal. Thanks all Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasSomT. Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 I nearly replied to your post- probably nothing like your problem I thought. 'My' Fox when I was in 'The Yo-Yos', had a habit of the charge relay 'dropping out' after 30-40 mins at tickover. I gradually 'twigged' that the whine in the headset had disappeared when this had happened. Just had to be brave, and stop and restart the engine. The first time I realised what had happened I remember looking at the Volts on the 353(?) and seeing 20v! All on our own, deep in a German wood, I hoped the engine would restart, and it did. Writing this, I think it was because the radio wouldn't go to 'send' - the radio experts will probably know what voltage that happens at. Sorry if I've bored anyone Chas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 It just goes to show that most "electrical" problems are actually mechanical ... :-D Andy (CEng, FIET!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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