pigdog Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 My Ferret wobbles around 42mph. which causes the steering wheel to shimmy back and forth. If I avoid that speed I dont seem to get the wobble. I dont have the runflats. When I just up the left side the left front wheel has play in it. I can move the wheel about 1cm when I push it in from the front and back of the wheel. This is also the same wheel that has the sticking parking brake. I have since not used the brake. What would cause this or how can I fix? All the other wheels are tight. Thanks-Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhTxdNscQ38wheel hub needs a rebuild?( go on u tube and look for ferret wheel station collapse) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Crap. I hope thats not it. Mine dosest push in and out like that one. Only if the front of the wheel or the back of the wheel is pushed does it move. Thanks for the vid. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 wheel bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Looking at the video, it is the age old problem, bolts and dowels securing the planet carrier to housing have sheared allowing hub bearings to move out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 from what i know they always work loose , should have been lockwired ., or split washers , star washers locktite etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 from what i know they always work loose , should have been lockwired ., or split washers , star washers locktite etc. There has always been problems in that area when in service, instructions were issued after the original set up of bolt and lockwasher failed, then a bolt and spring washer with a specific Loctite grade was used and a given torque figure. In order to clear the planet gears, the bolts had to have their head skimmed. This did not work, then finally on last part of their service, they reverted back to the original of locktabs, Loctite and torque......still failed. I actually submitted a technical suggestion to MoD on a modification, but it was so near their end on service, it was not worth doing. The Australian army had done a mod, which I was not aware of until later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 so why do you think they inherently try to work loose.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 so why do you think they inherently try to work loose.? Permanant four wheel drive on metalled roads. Something has to give and although the dowels are a good fit and no free play originally, the whole things starts fretting, the shims for adjusting wheel bearings start breaking up, thus meaning bolts are relaxed and down the slippery slope it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 (edited) So the hub is the most likely problem then? Should I not be driving it? Would I check for this by taking apart the hub? Also is this something a newbie such as myself can repair? Any Ferret mechanics vacationing in southern California soon? -Chris Edited April 14, 2010 by pigdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 So the hub is the most likely problem then? Should I not be driving it? Would I check for this by taking apart the hub? Also is this something a newbie such as myself can repair?Any Ferret mechanics vacationing in southern California soon? -Chris Chris, This is a serious problem, and when in service, the hub security had to be checked every 500 miles ( in latter years ). If you have any movement that can be seen between brake drum and brake backplate, then it will be something ot do with the planet carrier. If you have the set of EMER manuals for your Ferret, then you should be able to handle it, as the dismantling is given in steps in there. Are you paying return air fare to California ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyroo Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Looking at the video, it is the age old problem, bolts and dowels securing the planet carrier to housing have sheared allowing hub bearings to move out. Thats my Ferret video and your almost right Richard. There were no tab washers holding the dowels in. I have the old stile plannet carrier. The dowels had come out of the holes and got eaten by the plannet gears. The new stile planet carrier is able to retain the dowel in the hole without a tab washer. Though a tab washer is recomended to stop the bolts undoing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Yes I have the manuals, but theyre a bit basic in explaining. Can I do this without removing the wheel just to check whats going on in the hub? being that I'm outta work, I cant afford the airfare, but drinks are on the house:-D -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyroo Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Should I not be driving it?-Chris My personal veiw is check it out. Its an hour to dismantle and arround 3 to but back together. I was lucky in that I'd only pulled of the drive when somthing didn't feel right. That planet gear holds your wheel on!!!!! You realy dont want it to come off at any speed. It would also be worth checking the other 3 wheel stations as well. Two others of mine were going the same way, checking them saved me a few hundred pounds all for the sake of 3 pounds worth of tab washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Thats my Ferret video and your almost right Richard. There were no tab washers holding the dowels in. I have the old stile plannet carrier. The dowels had come out of the holes and got eaten by the plannet gears. The new stile planet carrier is able to retain the dowel in the hole without a tab washer. Though a tab washer is recomended to stop the bolts undoing. The dowels usually shear off, their plan size is 7/16" OD, but we had a jig made so that the dowels could be 1/2" in order to reclaim the planet carrier and hub carrier this is what you probably mean by "old and new" style carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Though a tab washer is recomended to stop the bolts undoing. To add.........the tab washers do not stop it all coming adrift, hence why the bolts with skimmed heads, spring washer and Loctite were used. If a dowel manages to slide out then the problem has started already because they are an interference fit in the hub carrier, and if loose, then allow the planet carrier to rock, stretching the bolts and fretting the shims until they shatter. I must have done several hundred hub rebuilds when they were in service and this fault was the most common one, next being tracta joints and shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fugly Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 So the hub is the most likely problem then? Should I not be driving it? Would I check for this by taking apart the hub? Also is this something a newbie such as myself can repair?Any Ferret mechanics vacationing in southern California soon? -Chris Hey !! I am a mechanic, with a passport !! And I will do my best !! (And I need a holiday...) All I need is a huge fee and the air tickets !! It could be Wheel Bearing / carrier Worn suspension (unlikely) Rim collapsing / damaged Loose wheelnuts Loose steering wheel ( a long shot) Play in the steering system not attributed to the above Bulge in the tyre / shedding the tread Incredibly badly balanced tyre ( ie a wheel full of water) Neurolgical problems ( a longer shot):nut: (only kidding) Anything else ! Seriously - dont drive it until its fixed - If the wheel bearing totally collapses it is not impossible for the wheel to detach . I have seen it on an HGV. The tyres and rims are heavy , and bounding down the road at 40 mph they represent a reasonable threat to security. And you can absolutely guarantee that the day your wheel falls off on that "quiet" backroad , is the day the local boys brigade is enjoying its combined "walk in the countryside" with the local Mothers and grandmothers union and the potential bodycount will be huge. A non perfect strike .. My advice to you is to buy some tools, get an instruction manual get some good advice and get stuck in to it :-D You wont be the first person in the world to attempt DIY home repairs , and as long as you err on the side of caution , and ask questions whenever you need advice you should be ok. Remember its 50 year old technology and if you asked the man who designed your ferret to install windows 7 and set up internet banking he would probably pebbledash his pants. (UK pants , not US pants..) It will also add to your knowledge of the vehicle. We have all been in this situation , and you are not on your own. Dont fall prey to any "experts" who want to charge a fortune (because these vehicles are so specialist , experts are very few and far between. The parts required will probably cost a loss less than and experts labour charges. Hopefully your time is free? Strip it down ( then at least it cannot be driven !!) and post some pics. Check the simple things first , and work carefully backwards from there . Best of luck with it - and remember you can rely on help from HMVF ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Ok get ready for all the" HELP ME!" posts. I just checked the hub cap allen head bolts and was able to loosen them. I was fearing they would be frozen. I am studying the wheel hub diagrams. I need to get some jack stands. Can I leave the wheel on for now? It seems like the wheel dosent need to come off unless I have to strip the hub way down to the root. Thanks for the encouraging advice. I will be posting updates. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Good luck Chris! Keep us posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fugly Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Good luck Chris! Keep us posted! Hello Chris I should get hold of an axle stand (s) , or some hefty wooden blocks and prop up the ferret under the hull, aftrer you have jacked it up . It will make things a lot easier and safer . Chock the wheels too so that it wont run away on you as you will have to leave the handbrake off. take the wheel off , and you will find it a lot easier, access will be much better and you will be able to concentrate on the job without worrying that the ferret going to fall on you.:-) Put all your parts/nits and bolts you remove in a container, best of luck . jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted April 16, 2010 Author Share Posted April 16, 2010 How do I get the hub reduction gear cover off?? I removed the 8 allen head bolts. The diagram shows the dowels inbetween the cover and the reduction gear annulus. stuck on the first step already -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 have u taken the wheels off yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted April 16, 2010 Author Share Posted April 16, 2010 no, wheel is still on. I need more tools to do that. -C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 mate get the wheel off either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Chris You might already know this but the wheel nuts on the Left hand Side are a Left Hand Thread. RH Thread on the RH side. Simple :-) DO NOT REMOVE the smaller nuts on the wheel which hold the wheel split rims together. These nuts are usually painted RED to indicate DANGER. The wheel nuts are the larger of the two types of nuts, and there are less of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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