haybaggerman Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Hi All Before I take delivery of the new beastie the generator and fan belts need to be changed. Does anyone have an idea of what needs to be done here. In the manuel it says refer to REME, not a good sign. Has anyone had to do this themselves, can you get in around the rad? Thanks Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pearson Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Unfortunately you need to take the radiator and front armour off to do a proper job. You might be able to fit join-link type belt but the diameters are really too small (ie has to bend too much) to last long. Also, belts tend to be fitted in sets so if some are duff, they probably all are. Least accessible and most important is the hydraulic pump belt, right down at the bottom. You don't want that going unexpectedly. By the way, you need a crane for the front armour! Don't be disheartened though, it is not a difficult job, just a bit tedious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyroo Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Its exceedingly diffecult to change the belts without removing the front armour, rad and fans. The space to work in is tight and when you have your arms in the way your unable to see. It can be done though but its quicker to remove said parts and change them from the front. Read the manual carfully regarding the belt tensions!! Too thight and the 5 little bolts that hold the generator pully on stretch and snap. I would not recomend linked belts having tried them. I use some to try and get us home once but still ended up on a low loader. They just dont have the friction to drive the the fans. Thouse two fans need a lot of energy to keep the air flow up. Buy NEW belts, not NOS ones. BSL Ltd stock the right size. Reason for not useing NOS is the rubber is past its best with age and new matched belts are no more expensive but will last a lot longer. I strongly recomend doing the hydrolic pump belt at the same time. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thankyou gentlemen, I'll pass on the comments, :thanx: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Hmmmmm, sounds like changing parts in a hot water tank in a linen closet would be easier? What say you? R :whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Hmmmmm, sounds like changing parts in a hot water tank in a linen closet would be easier? What say you? R :whistle: LOL Don't know what you mean !!:shocked: Anyway, its not my hot water tank yet so the plumber is doing it for me :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 You mean there is actually a job that's easier on a Stalwart - I am shocked gentlemen!! :shocked: :shocked: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I had to take the radiator and fan assembly out of a Saracen, in a motorway services once. Not for a belt change, but to fit another hydraulic pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 I had to take the radiator and fan assembly out of a Saracen, in a motorway services once. Not for a belt change, but to fit another hydraulic pump. Did it help to have a kfc or burger king in the vicinity, I imagine it would during the worst times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Did it help to have a kfc or burger king in the vicinity, I imagine it would during the worst times Never stopped to eat, although a thunderstorm did halt proceedings for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonm Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Looking at taking the front armour then fan / radiator assembly. Can this assembly be removed in one piece? ie radiator stays in place within the fan assembly and whole unit gets removed? Looking at the fan belts, it looks realistic apart from the belt that is driven from the engine. Assuming radiator comes out 1st, is there anything I should look for? Already drained and exposed (front armour off). I'm going to take the radiator out seperately ultimately as it seems an opportune time to have it renovated ready for another 50 years! Its very gunked up between the vanes and there is an area where it has obviously been dinged, though it doesn't lose fluid (unlike the fluid flywheel!!!!) Alternatively, can anybody point me at some photos of this part of the disassembly? If not I'll anyway document my attempts. Already done the Ferret successfully so done the practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pearson Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Been a few years since I did mine but so far as I recall, you have to remove bits in this order: top front armour (engine covers), hinge up the rear halves. Front armour. Radiator. Loosen fan drive split flanges, lift off fan drive belts. Remove fan drives, replace ALL belts. Tension all belts except fan drive. Replace fan drive, hooking fan drive belts onto flanges. Tension fan drive belts (this can be done at any time from now on but it is easier to do the less that has been replaced at the front. Having tensioned belts, turn engine over to check tension does not change, if it does, belts were "mipped" between the pulleys so re-tension. Replace radiator. Replace front and top (engine cover) armour. Refill radiator. Run engine for a few minutes. Re-tension belts. After first run, check tension and re-tension if required. I do not think it is possible to remove front armour, rad and fan drives together because they have bolts going in different directions that have to be removed and the bits are bolted to the body individually rather than being bolted together in a unit. The radiator itself is attached to the fan drive so could be left attached but I can see no advantage to leaving it attached. The armour certainly must come off separately. Please note, the job I was doing was with the normal airflow saracen. If yours is the reverse flow then I think you have doubled, thinner belts with different tensioners as I think the reverse flow uses the Saladin fan drive system but apart from how the belts are actually tensioned and of course also having to remove the air cowlings, the task is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonm Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Very helpful, I'll continue proceeding with caution, radiator off first. (Armour already removed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonm Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) Here's some pictures of my radiator coming out, next its the fans. Sheet of hardboard in front of radiator to avoid risk... Also the swing up engine covers are VERY securely roped to the turret One of the lower coolant connections The upper coolant pipes, also the jumble of connecting wires, I've re-labeled them so they should all go back together - recommend get a cheap Dymo maker. The radiator out, its realistically a two man job, as much as anything to be able to do it slow and sure. Plan to have radiator reconditioned, it all looks good but I don't want to take it out again soon. Also, when draining the coolant, its lots, have 3 buckets ready, suggest use the pressure cap to regulate flow and be prepared for a rush! Edited October 20, 2011 by simonm adding images Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyroo Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 though it doesn't lose fluid (unlike the fluid flywheel!!!!) Now is the time to take the engine out then and sort out the fluid flywheel!! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonm Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Absolutely! This is a long journey that has started with the removal of radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonm Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Bolts that hold the the two sides of the pulley (the ones secured by the wire) being removed. The nuts will then be loosened, they seem to lock the pulley half and stop it turning against the lareg thread. Then the pulley half is unscrewed to allow the fan belt to slip down and thus be loose against the main drive pulley. Looking down on both pulleys, fan belts now loose Fan assembly now removed. Edited October 24, 2011 by simonm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m109a3uk Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I'd agree with andyroo, easier to take the engine out now than the box out later to do the FF seal. In for a penny and all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonm Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 There seems to be a view that I'm going to go to this bother and not take the engine out? Can't see any previous comment on my part where I've said I'm just doing the fan belts. I'm adding these images here as its very appropriate to the fan belts. As with my comment above, its just the start of a long journey in taking the engine out to do the fluid flywheel seal, that is the sole reason for this activity and has been planned over the last couple of years. As to taking the front armour, fan assembly etc off in order to change the fan belts, my experience so far is that to take teh fan assembly off you 1st have to remove the fan belts, if I was just doing the fan belts I think it would be quicker to leave the front assemblies in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadawg Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 As with my comment above, its just the start of a long journey in taking the engine out to do the fluid flywheel seal, that is the sole reason for this activity and has been planned over the last couple of years. Fast forward to 2015 and wondering how this turned out! Did you ever pull the engine? Is all the work done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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