oily Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 1/2 way through the fluid flywheel job now, just need to disconnect fuel pump, then it's engine out!, I'm gonna put all new belts and hoses in, with stainless jubilee clips:goodidea:. The engine bay and engine will get repainted while it's all apart too, :whentitsdone:, it'll look better than new! I have posted a few pics of progress in most recent of my posts, don't worry, I will put up a detailed report of the whole process, when I'm finished, -hopefully by 26th May 2011, hell! :shocking:that's next Thursday!, gotta go!:saluting: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 1/2 way through the fluid flywheel job now, just need to disconnect fuel pump, then it's engine out!, I'm gonna put all new belts and hoses in, with stainless jubilee clips:goodidea:. The engine bay and engine will get repainted while it's all apart too, :whentitsdone:, it'll look better than new!I have posted a few pics of progress in most recent of my posts, don't worry, I will put up a detailed report of the whole process, when I'm finished, -hopefully by 26th May 2011, hell! :shocking:that's next Thursday!, gotta go!:saluting: Oily, my hat off to you! I have worked on aircraft where space restraints made one's life difficult especially Airbus aircraft. Mechanics bitched when having to work on these, preferring Boeing planes. With this background and myself having struggled working downthere in the engine compartment, I have sort of an idea what you must be going through, doing this for the first (Hopefully last ) time! I like your strategy to replace the rubber components now when the engine is out. It will surely pay dividends later on. Go man, go! Looking forward to your report and good luck to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hi, we went visiting over the weekend and happened to come across two more sarries! One still pretty much as the army sold it and the other one similar to my sarry, or as modified for the security industry. Could not get the vehicle numbers, both vehicles were locked but some ports were open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasSomT. Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) Very nice Montie, they look good in White! Can you tell if they are 'Dieselized', like yours - it Is isn't it? An '88'? I SO want one! Dreams :blush: Thanks for posting the pics. 'Chas.' Edited June 13, 2011 by ChasSomT. Spelt his name wrong - Doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Very nice Montie, they look good in White!Can you tell if they are 'Dieselized', like yours - it Is isn't it? An '88'? I SO want one! Dreams :blush: Thanks for posting the pics. 'Chas.' Hi Chas, Saracen 88's maybe, but I yet have to come across one that was dieselized! All good old B80's as far as I know, but I would not put my money on it, though! You never know with the Army mechanics and schemers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasSomT. Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 My mistake! I would still Love one tho. The ones I drove were good old B80s! Thanks for the quick reply. 'Chas.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Hi guys, I am in need of some help, please!! I tried to move the saracen today but even with the handbrake released,it wouldn't bodge and felt if the brakes are holding. Eventually with my son's remark "what is that lever for", and my explanation that it is for a trailer, it proved to be air park brakes! So with it off and in Neutral the saracen moved! It seems to be stuck in this gear, no matter how I cycle it! The only way to go from forward into reverse is swithing off the engine, operate the transfer-box lever to change the direction and start up again! Please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 My son took these pics at a show at the exhibition center in Melborne. Unfortunately the number on the sarry couldn't be found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 thanks for all the help, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 thanks for all the help, guys! Montie, Is this a tongue in cheek remark ? I did not read your recent post fully, got to the part about your son's suggestion and thought you had cracked it, just realised you had another problem. If you are still in trouble I may have a few ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Montie,Is this a tongue in cheek remark ? I did not read your recent post fully, got to the part about your son's suggestion and thought you had cracked it, just realised you had another problem. If you are still in trouble I may have a few ideas.Richard to the rescue as always! I still have a problem and thinking back to when I first moved it, battling with the gears, it might have been evident then, I was/am just to inexperienced to pick it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Richard to the rescue as always! I still have a problem and thinking back to when I first moved it, battling with the gears, it might have been evident then, I was/am just to inexperienced to pick it up! Montie, A similar problem happen to me once. I picked up a Saracen from a customer with a blown fly-wheel seal, so, a none runner. Pulled engine out and repaired flywheel, it had been run so hot the impellor had picked up on the flywheel. Went to test it, and it would not pull away, as if someone had chained it down! What it turned out to be was the gear selector linkage had dropped off the gear lever in side the quadrant box aside the seat. It was actually in top gear and that was why the flywheel was stuffed, the owner thought he was changing down but all the time in top. So, check you selector linkage is intact and also worth removing seat and floor to view the band selection on the gearbox. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Montie, A similar problem happen to me once. I picked up a Saracen from a customer with a blown fly-wheel seal, so, a none runner. Pulled engine out and repaired flywheel, it had been run so hot the impellor had picked up on the flywheel. Went to test it, and it would not pull away, as if someone had chained it down! What it turned out to be was the gear selector linkage had dropped off the gear lever in side the quadrant box aside the seat. It was actually in top gear and that was why the flywheel was stuffed, the owner thought he was changing down but all the time in top. So, check you selector linkage is intact and also worth removing seat and floor to view the band selection on the gearbox. Richard Thanks Richard, I was worried it will come to that, I will open her up at the first opportunity I get. This weekend is out though, wife says we need to "visit" the kids. They are moving house, if you get what I am saying. Meanwhile, I will do some research in my manuals before I get told to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 I came accross this pic and I can't resist to post it. The baboons are from Africa but the sarry? No ways! Had a good laugh though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RecyMech Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 The one on the turret says "you don't have this trouble getting bits off a Fiesta" !:-D Good pic, like it. H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Happy new Year to all of you and may prosperity bore you! My year started of well with me eventually getting round to spend some time on the gearbox. Having first read up in the manual regarding the slack on the gear pedal, mine definitely was not adjusted correctly. After battling for quite a while adusting this way and that way, it seemed that I had my 1/2" clearance between the pedal and the bulkhead. After bolting everything down and checking the clearance, I was satisfied that it was a job well done. Great was my shock when cycling the gearbox! it was in neutral and all of a sudden the pedal stayed well down. Flabergasted I shifted the gearlever to 1st gear and nearly got my knee against my chin from the kickback! 2nd gear and 4th gear gave the same results as 1st gear returning solidly against the bulkhead with no play whatsoever!. 3rd gear is mild in comparison and left some play to the bulkhead. 5th gear in turn is even milder with even more play between pedal and bulkhead. My opinion is that the gearbox adjustments are way off and needs to be opened. Your opinions, please. Oh, and another thing, what is the "pedal up" procedure, please? I don't seem to pick it up in the manuals that I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Happy new Year to all of you and may prosperity bore you! My year started of well with me eventually getting round to spend some time on the gearbox. Having first read up in the manual regarding the slack on the gear pedal, mine definitely was not adjusted correctly. After battling for quite a while adusting this way and that way, it seemed that I had my 1/2" clearance between the pedal and the bulkhead. After bolting everything down and checking the clearance, I was satisfied that it was a job well done. Great was my shock when cycling the gearbox! it was in neutral and all of a sudden the pedal stayed well down. Flabergasted I shifted the gearlever to 1st gear and nearly got my knee against my chin from the kickback! 2nd gear and 4th gear gave the same results as 1st gear returning solidly against the bulkhead with no play whatsoever!. 3rd gear is mild in comparison and left some play to the bulkhead. 5th gear in turn is even milder with even more play between pedal and bulkhead. My opinion is that the gearbox adjustments are way off and needs to be opened. Your opinions, please. Oh, and another thing, what is the "pedal up" procedure, please? I don't seem to pick it up in the manuals that I have. Hi Montie, You should have adjusted the pedal free play when in 1st gear. There may not be anything wrong with your box adjustments as yet. You need first to get the box into 1st gear, then do the free play. Once that is done, all the other gears can be checked. Also having the pressed steel inspection cover off the box will give an indication of the condition of the bands and adjusters. regards, Richard Edited January 4, 2012 by Richard Farrant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Hi Montie,You should have adjusted the pedal free play when in 1st gear. There may not be anything wrong with your box adjustments as yet. You need first to get the box into 1st gear, then do the free play. Once that is done, all the other gears can be checked. Also having the pressed steel inspection cover off the box will give an indication of the condition of the bands and adjusters. regards, Richard Thanks for the advice, Richard, I will tackle it tomorrow. It sounds that it is correct if the pedal stays down when in neutral? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks for the advice, Richard, I will tackle it tomorrow. It sounds that it is correct if the pedal stays down when in neutral? Correct Montie, 1st has least play and progressively more up to Top gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks for the advice, Richard, I will tackle it tomorrow. It sounds that it is correct if the pedal stays down when in neutral? Correct Montie. The pedal has least clearance in 1st then progressively more as you go up the gears. If you have not done it before, taking the tin lid off the box will tell a 1,000 stories, you will be able to ascertain band wear and operation of gears, and auto adjusters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks again Richard, you are the man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 While I was busy down there, the heat shield on the manifold was also installed. One down. Next I unbolted the gear change pedal panels to see what the situation was. When 1st is selected, the gear change pedal still has no play whatsoever even with the bulkhead removed. I took of the link on the pedal, lengthened it, reinstalled but still no joy. Next step, I opened up the gearbox for a look see as Richard suggested all along. It seems that some adjustment is required. Neutral 1st gear, very strong kickback 2nd gear, very strong kickback,same as 1st gear 3rd gear, a lot weaker kickback compare to the first two gear selections 4th gear, strong kickback, comparable to 1st and 2nd gear 5th gear, weak kickback Notice the small gap on 5th when in neutral, yet it has the weakest kick back of all the gears! How low is 1st gear or "emergency low" as some manuals call it? Would it for instance, be able to tow a tank such as the stolly on that Youtube vid? That is impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Montie, A quick reply for now, as I'm cooking my meal. The state of the gear adjusters is excellent, I think it is down to pedal adjustment and maybe gear adjustment, but will get back with more later. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Montie,A quick reply for now, as I'm cooking my meal. The state of the gear adjusters is excellent, I think it is down to pedal adjustment and maybe gear adjustment, but will get back with more later. Richard Thanks again Richard, this is good news! I eventually figured out that the "pedal-up" procedure means operating the gear change pedal 5 times in each gear as one cycles through the different gears. Working through the Tech Repair manual, I am being confused because of lack of experience! 1) When adjusting the brake bands, tool FV55522 fits vertically? (my impression looking at the gearbox layout and fig 13), the drawing indicates rod fitted horisontally through the casing (fig 13A)? 2) When adjusting the gear selector control, the "control rod" must be disconnected once the gearbox cover has been removed? I am not sure of the location of this control rod. My impression is that it is the rod connecting the Gear change pedal to the balance of the control levers but it sounds like the rod connecting the gear selector to the gearbox? Question is now, how do you cycle through the gears without connecting this rod? Sorry for all the questions but I want to break this challenge's back! Edited January 5, 2012 by montie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Thanks again Richard, this is good news! I eventually figured out that the "pedal-up" procedure means operating the gear change pedal 5 times in each gear as one cycles through the different gears. Working through the Tech Repair manual, I am being confused because of lack of experience! 1) When adjusting the brake bands, tool FV55522 fits vertically? (my impression looking at the gearbox layout and fig 13), the drawing indicates rod fitted horisontally through the casing (fig 13A)? 2) When adjusting the gear selector control, the "control rod" must be disconnected once the gearbox cover has been removed? I am not sure of the location of this control rod. My impression is that it is the rod connecting the Gear change pedal to the balance of the control levers but it sounds like the rod connecting the gear selector to the gearbox? Question is now, how do you cycle through the gears without connecting this rod? Sorry for all the questions but I want to break this challenge's back! Right Montie, I'm back. When we used to do the gearbox set upson these, we had a special tool which was basically a hand operated lever to replace the small gear engaging lever on the top of the box. Reason was that the pedal linkage can sometimes inhibit the free movement of the lever, as in your case in 1st gear. What you do is to select and engage 1st gear, without the pedal linkage on, and operated the lever to engage the gear, and to see if it is adjusting up. A fierce lever indicates band linkage going over centre, ie not adjusted up enough, once you are happy with all the gears, you then go back to 1st, select and engage, then connect the pedal linkage and adjust for the correct free play. Here endeth lesson No.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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