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GeePig

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Everything posted by GeePig

  1. Is a jeep correct original fitment as well? trevor
  2. I assume that they want the cute look without the gear, but airflow can be a complex thing, especially when one has a large metal brick... trevor
  3. I see, so some other generation will maybe get the chance to rescue those... For the Khalid (I had to look that up), was that for trials or training? trevor
  4. Or, Ian, perhaps they had a problem with cracking and this was a temporary fix before re-engineering the whole thing. It would be interesting to compare the block to a later equivalent block. trevor
  5. Ah yes, I see, it must have been the colour and angle, but I thought that the sides of the one you are working had wooden sides :nut: On another note, is that a repair or just how the casting is, as it looks like a patch down on the side at the engine number end of the block? As you can probably tell, I do not know much about Standard Tillys. trevor
  6. Nice, very nice in fact, but why has one got a wooden back and the other steel? I assume that they are off different dates, or is there some other reason? trevor
  7. Lovely shots - I like No. 28 Comet, it looks almost like a model. I have a question, though, what exactly is a controlled impact area? Will they always remain off limits, or do you think they will be cleared eventually? trevor
  8. Find a strip of steel, drill 12 holes in, roll into a hoop and weld, add a clock mechanism in the centre and insert twelve spark plugs in the holes to act as hour markers? trevor
  9. A nice piece of work, you must be glad it all worked out. Is there some kind of bump stop that makes sure that on max upward deflection of the axle the steering arm does not contact the chassis rail? trev
  10. Are the seals supposed to look something like you would have on the suspension ball joints on an old Mini? trevor
  11. As the forum is an IT system, it could have just been eaten by the server trevor
  12. I am not familiar with that carb, but is the float height set correctly? How are you checking for it running lean, by checking the spark plugs? Carb problems can be quite tricky, but I reckon we can solve this trevor
  13. It is your vehicle, Robert, what is your gut instinct? trevor
  14. Ah, it is no longer 'that rusty frame' but part of an actual motorcycle again! trevor
  15. As an aside, many years ago while I was still young and foolish, before I got older, I took my modified Honda C70 down the Alps to ride the trails there. I soon discovered that as the engine got really hot, as in doing 5-10 mph up a very steep road, it would start to cut out. Changing the plug for another old one would solve the problem temporarily, as would leaving the bike to cool. A new plug would solve the problem for maybe a day. The real problem turned out to be the location of the condensor, mounted inside the generator on the plate that divided the generator zone from the crankshaft zone, and the extra hot oil lapping around on the other side of the plate was killing the condensor. So the Honda engine may have a problem, and it may indeed be the plug, but it could also be something else. Interestingly, I removed the condensor and replaced it with an old Mini condensor I happened to have, which I mounted on the frame in the cool, cool air about a foot of wire away from the points. This ran without fault for several years, as long as I had the bike, which begs the question of how close to the points does the condensor need to be? trevor
  16. Ah, almost brings a tear to the eye, but I blame the dust in my room... trevor
  17. I tend to agree, screws were quite expensive and would typically be used for things that may have to come apart later. I have a wooden toolbox made by my grandfather's brother, a carpenter, in 1915 and the only screws it uses are for the hinges. A well inserted nail or a wooden dowel also means that one can produce very tidy-looking cubes, with no filler being required or visible screw heads. trevor
  18. Well most ends up in the weld, the rest on your walls, clothes, in your lungs.... :undecided: I sometimes wonder whether there is a maximum sustainable spark flame length for any gap, because the elements of the spark seem to travel in an oval shaped field rather than a cylindrical one. If we had, for arguments sake, just one gap in our HT system between coil and cylinder head then would the maximum size of this gap be noticeably less than the maximum combined lengths of all the gaps we do or may have: rotor, spark plug and air gap resistor? Is the fatness of the spark a limit on its maximum length? trevor
  19. Well, for the rotor gap I suppose that there is probably the issue of producing a wider range of rotor arms, and then what happens when eventually someone fits resistive leads or caps to your system fitted with a resistive distributor? trevor
  20. Ah, so is this an example of an early type B hull with the blanked off exhaust ports then? trevor
  21. Ah, thank you, Jules, I had forgotten about those balls! trevor
  22. I am interested to know why the passenger side mudguard has a hole in the outer edge for the mounting bar but the driver's side doesn't? Is that how they were? trevor
  23. Ah, thank you, that makes sense, are the A type hulls still relatively common as survivors? trevor
  24. Ah, you answered the question I was going to ask trevor
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