Jump to content

Richard Farrant

Moderators
  • Posts

    11,492
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    46

Everything posted by Richard Farrant

  1. Aren't they the ones from the National Army Museum collection that have been stored there whilst work was being done on their storage facility?
  2. Hi, Shame it is not the right one for you. I think the reason I still have it is because I got it for an early RL, not realising it was different ....... had not seen the vehicle at the time. Best of luck, Richard
  3. I don't remember those Land Rovers going to NI having glass fibre protection on the floor, it had underbelly and sheets under the wheel arches, maybe this was to do with other locations of service, although you say not armour. ah beaten to it, I was going to say Rhodesia as I think some went out there.
  4. Clive, You say clutch is a clue, then you told Bernard that it was bigger than the two of you. That puzzles me as it must be a big component, you also gave a clue that it was made in UK and Australia .......... the only thing I can think of is that it is something to do with a Land Rover as they were built in both countries.
  5. The attached are from a RL parts book dated 1961 covering contracts 6/VEH/28027 and 6/VEH/KL/H/0594 Cargo, Dropside. If these pictures show your cylinder and servo exactly, I will pass on the master cylinder number. There is a possibility I have a NOS master cylinder, it is for a RL, but not sure until I look as to the actual type. It would be a lot less than you were quoted anyway. regards, Richard
  6. I still use these mirrors on my Bedford, despite their size a good angle of view in them. The last British army vehicles to use them were Ferrets, and the mods were done to replace them with a Land Rover type of mirror. Around early 80's I think. They were made by either Radydot, Desmo or Wingard. Paul Beck has them, possibly repro, but same style with screws to retain the rim, looks like the brass one is a good buy, about half the price that I've seen WD ones go for. See here; https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/514-rear-view-mirror
  7. Ferret brake shoes centralise themselves they sit in a holder and can pivot on a roller as well as float backwards and forwards a little. Not a commonly used set up but works well. No need to hit the drum.
  8. hi, Just posting a message from the KVE President regarding current flooding at Corowa, in relation to the Annual Corowa Swim-In & Military Vehicle Gathering in March 2017. The photo attached was taken this week looking from bottom of Sanger St. towards the bridge with Bangerang Park on the left: "G’Day all As most of you may be aware that the southern and western regions of NSW, andareas of Victoria, have been having some severe weather over the last few weeks. This has resulted in a number of townships and communities being flooded. Unfortunately Corowa has also been affected with Flood waters up to the bottom of Sanger Street, including Ball Park Caravan Park and other caravan parks nearby. What this means for us is still too early to determine but our hearts and thoughts go out to the Community. We will be liaising with our Stakeholders at an appropriate time to continue with our planning of the Swim In, but until then we will let the community focus on recovering from these floods. Please be patient and wait for us to release periodical updates on our planning. Some things may need to change and some may be fine to continue, these we cannot answer until we know and understand what condition the Corowa community is in. Our plans are always dependant on the weather and current conditions at the time. Thanks for your patience and Support for the Corowa Community Scott Rough KVE President" We have heard from another of our committee members, Neville Smith who has witnessed many floods in Corowa over the past 60 years and once the water recedes things will return back to normal fairly quickly. (You shouldn't need your gumboots.) Neville doesn't see a problem for us if the water recedes in a couple of months. Regards, Richard
  9. Looking at the inside diameter of the wheel bearing, in comparison with the size 10 boot, I would not think it was for a rear axle of a lorry as by the time it was slid over an axle tube the halfshaft would have to be as small as a car one. I go for a haulage trailer ........ if it is not found to be from an AFV.
  10. Just to elaborate on my last reply, the army specified in Servicing Schedule that Accumulator pressures be checked once a month. It could be a valve leaking but you will have to pressurise it first before looking for external leaks, but normally the pressure leaks past the piston seal (you will be unlikely to find the bag type as they were generally superseded). The piston seals are rather archaic to todays thinking and not lip seals as you might imagine. When we tested the pressure in army use it was a hand held dial gauge which you had to push hard on to the valve. I still use one of these gauges and they work fine. The pressure is 500 PSI plus or minus 25 PSI. In service they used compressed dry air, and we had charged cylinders. The air went through dryers to remove moisture otherwise rust could occur. Other types of vehicles in the fleet with accumulators were specified nitrogen and it is easier to get hold of.
  11. When in service the requirement to check pressures was far more regular than 1 year. The pressure dissipates in to the hydraulic system, unless one of the Schrader valves is leaking, there should be an o-ring under the large cap as well.. Not using the vehicle makes it more likely to loose pressure.
  12. I think the original canvas grips had some kind of coating inside, and you soaked them in petrol, slide on and let them dry out.
  13. Hi Rick, A pre-war tank? Now that does sound intriguing. cheers Richard
  14. I remember the fault as they were coming in Workshops at the time, although I did not do the Mods. I recollect saying this was the similar problem to the jeeps, 50 years previous.
  15. It looks like an oversize version of a Mowag Piranha
  16. Hi Sean, Top hose for a 1950's Commer Q4 4x4
  17. I notice the first photo must show a very early Pioneer as it has 'spoked' front wheels.
  18. For a motor cycle saddle, but as Clive says, you would need a vehicle parts list. Just looked at a BSA M20 one and separate parts of Terrys saddle are not listed.
  19. Hi Mick, I think your question was answered in your previous thread. I see from the record card that it was disposed of after leaving West Moors, and given its role, may well have remained in Deep Bronze Green. See here; http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?54899-Vehicle-History-Land-Rover-Series-3-88-quot/page2&highlight=west+moors regards, Richard
  20. Chris was a great guy, gone too soon.
  21. Hi Ron, Many years ago in my youth I did a bit of motorcycle trials riding and with no lights you had to get home before dusk, luckily I never got in that situation. Regarding brake lights, all WW2 era motorcycles should have them fitted even though the military did not have them in wartime. The law states they are fitted from a date in 1930's, think it could be 1936. The late Chris Davies of MVT, fellow WM20 rider and ex-Hampshire police officer gave me this advice on my first meeting him at the 1984 Southsea D-Day show. After all it is for our safety. This is why I put a QD number plate board on my bike with modern stop tail lamp which incorporates a red reflector, another requirement. Regarding helmets, I used an Everoak TT helmet suitable painted olive drab, known as the 'pudding basin' as it was BS rated and legal and probably offered a little more protection than a steel DR helmet as it fitted better. Mind you I was clocking up large mileages on the M20, as I rode it long distances to events, sometimes in the saddle for 5-6 hours. regards, Richard
  22. Have you seen this? It shows a NSN number for the key; http://www.mcgeoch.co.uk/nsn-pdf-files/6230-99-521-4855.pdf and this: http://www.milspares.co.uk/nsn/6230995214856
  23. You may well find that the finish will dull down to a matt finish as it takes sometime for synthetic paint to fully cure. Also a true matt paint will quickly mar with finger prints, rubbing, and oil or grease, so a slightly satin is more durable.
×
×
  • Create New...