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PB1954RNS

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PB1954RNS last won the day on September 15 2020

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  1. Small Jobs List. Hi. Just a quick update on the list of small jobs. Rad Drain Cock. I didn't put a photo of this but just to say that the drain cock was sized and the handle had been broken off some time in it's history. Bit of a sod to remove it from the rad, but a couple of swear words , spanner and a bit of pipe it gave up the struggle and taken into the workshop to be stripped down. The handle had been broken off flush with the spindle and then trying to strip the drain cock down was a right pain. With plenty of penetrating oil left to soak for a hour and with a gentle tap on the end of the spindle the cock came apart. All rusty parts cleaned up and I had to drill a small hole in the remains of the handle, out a small stud remover and out it came. Checked the threads and found to be B.S.F and I had a piece of brass bar at the correct size to make a new handle. The valve was put back together with a slight smear of silicon grease and went back okay. Passengers Side Foot Rest. No photo, as all I could do with this was to forget pyramid nosing and put strips of steel down for the Passenger foot rest. Rear End of The Lorry . Right I have been studying the war time photo of the Albion as shown at a depot on delivery. There is a bar fixed to adjustable shackles and held in place with two brackets and I have no idea what the purpose of this item was.? I have checked every book and museums as to what this bar does and no other details of the brackets apart from the photo so I have made up my own . The first photo shows the lorry bed and you can see the bar on the adjustable shackles and the chain secured to it. So I made a cardboard mock up as shown in the 2nd/3rd photo and kept measuring until it was correct and cut and bent one out of 3mm steel I still have to make another one but should be a lot easy. The bar as shown in photo 4, was cut out of 1.5" tube with a couple of wooden bungs fitted in the ends and a nut/bolt fitted as well. The - call it a safety chain had been cut being withdrawn from service with the bar or during standing in the scrap yard. I brought a 38mm 'U' clamp as fitted to a car exhaust and made a small bracket for the chain to be fitted to. I had to replace 14 links of chain to get it to hang correct and fit the bracket as shown in photo 5. The bar still has to be adjusted some more as it's on a slight slope to the Drivers side. Photo 6 shows the nearly finished job apart from making and fitting the last bracket. Photo 7. Shows some sort of cardboard device, well it's a mock up of the side rollers with brackets as fitted to the rear towers. These are the next project to be made up and from the Black and White photo the rollers look like turned wood so might have to change these to steel pipe. They where fitted to guide the boats on the chassis, so there is very little chance of the lorry carrying folding boats again; so might just leave them fixed and just for show. Many Thanks. Paul Burns
  2. Hi. Many thanks for your words, I think it was the feeling of doom and gloom, it just put me off from going out and working on it. But now fuelled up and running to do as much catch up as I can to get it finished. Cheers P.B
  3. Hi. It's been nearly a year since I put a up date on the Albion and I have to admit that I did lose interest in doing any work during this plague. But after two jabs and a friendly kick up the bum, set about catching up on the work that has been waiting for my attention. I have a long list of small jobs that needed doing and set about doing them, when you cross off one job there is still another 24 to do. Small jobs. I will keep it short as I don't want your eyes to glaze over if I put the long list. I'm looking for some tie downs that fit on the body work - check photos and would any one have 4 spare that they don't need. Would they be the same as fitted to trailers ? I have put a new steel plate in between the side angle to support the 10ft oars and 6ft barge poles that are secured in between the frames. I did plan to cover all 11ft of the inside of the chassis but it was a daft idea as it made it tight to get to the rear diff's and there was a 100% chance I was going to bang my head when trying to work inside, still got the scar from head butting the frame stretcher . Next, is looking for the Bridge Type Fuses as I'm missing one for the Horn circuit and would like to have a few spares as well. I do plan to get the fuse board up dated and take modern fuses but that is a long way off. The double headed bolts on the rear bogie truck had rusted away to the point that they had to be replaced again check photos. They are at the front but there are two at the back will need to be replaced as well, just waiting for the 3/4" Whit nuts to turn up. Had to remake the dust covers for the wheel bearings as the local wild life - fox - liked the smell of the leather and destroyed them. First big job. I'm going to strip down all the brake gear front front to back, but before I start I have to measure up all the adjustment distances. This is so I get the linkages back in the right allowances as the workshop manual states that you have to lift all rear wheels off the ground and adjust. Let me think 2 ton of lorry in the air , slide along on the ground to the brake adjusters - no I think will wait until Saint Peter calls me before I depart this world. Cheers. P.B Right call a stop and I would be grateful if any one can help me with the spares .
  4. Hi. Just to keep your interest the Contracted Price of each Albion of the 329 order was - chassis £1080 each and the cab £68 each. Then there was extra costs of £62.12s.10d , so add that all up and you can see what it cost the War Office - you still had to add the cost of the body supplied and fitted by Weymann Motor Bodies. The BY1/3 were a bit like first world war lorries - archaic - they had the standard WD pattern open cab with a canvas folding hood and side screens. The hood was attched via straps to the front mud guards. The BY5 had a full metal and glass windscreen where the other marks didn't, but still had a folding roof and side screens. The BY1 engine had a bore of 3.3/4" and a stroke 5.3/8" - 4 cyl BY3 engine had a bore of 3.1/2" and a stroke 4.1/2" - 6 cylinders. BY5 engine had a bore of 3.5/8" and a stroke 4.1/2" - 6 cylinders. Albion just updated the design with the change of the shape of the rad and a more powerful engine to haul the lorry and a trailer when fitted. Also the high and low gear box was a help when driving over rough ground. To answer your question, the BY1/BY3 did have Folding Boat Equipment but the design of the bodywork is totally different to the BY5 and was one on the many improvements. I can assure you it's a nightmare now trying to get spare parts for it. Cheers. Paul Burns
  5. Hi. Sorry for the delay in replying but first of all - message to Old Git about photos - will sort it out asap. Next XS650. Manty thanks for your interest about the Albion and have put together a brief history. BY1 Chassis: Order placed by the War Office to Albion Motors for delivery from 1937 - 1940. These were used for G.S trucks, Bridging Equipment, Pontoon Body, Trestle/Sliding Bay Units and Small Box Girder Bridge. Fitted with Albion engines EN214/215 - Petrol 4 cyl, capacity 3.89 litres. Chassis Start Number 52000A . BY3 Chassis: Order placed by the War Office for 1940 - 1941. Use as above. Fitted with Albion Engine EN278 - Petrol 6 cyl, capacity4.25 litres. Chassis Start Number 52200A. BY5 Chassis: Order placed by War Office for 1941 - 1945. Folding Boat Body and G.S Body. Fitted with Albion Engine EN280 - Petrol 6 cyl, capacity 4.56 litres. Chassis Start Number 52450A. BY7: Future design only one ,but unable to find any info on it. Chassis Start Number: 52600A. My Albion was part of a contract number V 5103 - Date 21/03/1942 for 800 vehicles for delivery from 6/8/1943 with 50 vehicles ready for collection a month. The order was for 170 F.BE, 225 Pontoon, 123 S.B.G, 231 G.S ,7 Derrick, 22 Wireless, 22 Bridge Track and 261 not yet allocated. The Contract order was changed on 16/05/1944 for 329 F.B.E and 471 G.S. Both the two types of bodies were to be supplied and fitted by Weymann Motor Bodies in Addlestone, Surrey. Lorry Numbers for F.B.E - L 5332821 - 5333149 and for the G.S - L 5333150 - 5333620. And 18YX66 was sold off from C.V.D ASHCHURCH on 25/08/1959. Hope this is of some interest to you and if you have or find any BY5's in service then please let me know. Cheers Paul Burns.
  6. Hi. Many thanks for your thoughts about the Albion, yes it has been a slow slog but getting there. I hope to have it going to displays - fingers crossed - next year, but at 8 miles per gallon could be on the back of a low loader. Paul Burns.
  7. Hi. The only one that I know of is the half remains of a BY5 still at Mains scrap yard. I had a look at it several years ago with the idea of buying it and trying to join up a chassis off a later Albion 6x4 but Mr Main wanted too high a price for buying the BY5 and chassis. What is ever left now would be rust as it was slowly falling in on its self, any steel part you might be able to use as patterns but I doubt it.. I noticed that I have messed up the photo's putting them on the posting, next time I will get it right. Paul Burns.
  8. Hi. It's been a long time since I posted a up date as I have been trying to dodge the COVID-19 bullet, a few bits to go on. ODD JOBS. The more I venture under the lorry, I tend to find more bolts,nuts and studs missing. The latest is on the engine, gearbox, engine mounts, I spend half a day working out the size required and go back next day and find even more missing. I have now a list of the required parts and will buy new ones in to correct the missing ones on the engine. Master Servo. Well have tried to get this master servo sorted out but it is a real pain as there are 4 foot long brake rods each side to remove. They connect to the reaction leverinside the body and there is only about a 1/8" each side to remove a 3.5" bolt. So I have left it in place and working to clean it up and check the piston and bore with the end cap removed. The top cover was a bit on the rotten side as you can see from the photo's, but I did make another one and fixed the makers plate on as per the original. It is held on by two bolts , it should have copper rivets holding it on and these are on order. The oil cup on the main body had been the lid broken off and a split pin put in to act as a oil feeder and to stop the water from entering the body. I have been looking for a replacement for it for some time and last week, sone one was selling 3 N.O.S oil cups on EBay. Last minute bid and they came home. You can see the new oil cup next to the new cover, it was only fitted for the photo and will be painted. You can see it was very much rotten, the only concern was the thread, would it fit my unit and sure enough all okay. Front Brake Drum. I had removed the wheel to work on the front slave servo cylinders and to prove the above said note, you will find on the photo of the brake drum not a single bolt holding it on. Also the vacuum pipes on both sides are now passed their prime and need replacing. I have tried companies who still make the vac bags for railway vacuum braked steam locos and other vehicles. No such luck, so it's back to the high pressure air, hydraulic and oil pipe, but on one wants to sell me just 2 meters of pipe. So can any one help me with the contact details of any company who would supply that small amount of pipe. It would have to be working pressure of 150 psi and the inside bore 21/32" or 16.66 mm - outside it is 1.9/64th" or 29mm . The slave servo's also have a oil cup on them, but mine are missing the tops and will have to be replaced. Also I have found damaged and missing oil nipples on the brake gear in out of reach places and again are being added to my ever growing list. On the Drivers side ,the front brake cam lever has suffered some damage, during Army service or in preservation. The lever has been bent outwards by about 35 degrees and will need to be bent back. I think that it will need a oxy/acetylene gun to heat it up and bend back without cracking it, it is a drop forging. Paul Burns Uploaded Imageschoose files... Click to choose files IMG_2454.JPG 2.1 mb · Done IMG_2455.JPG 3.4 mb · Done IMG_2465.JPG 4.2 mb · Done
  9. UPDATE 2019/2020. Hi. Just a quick update on the Albion for 2019/2020. The work I had planned for Christmas period, had to be put on hold due to the fact I caught this winter bug. And if you have not got it yet, it is a little sod. Wheels. I reported that I had two flats - front and middle. The middle tyre was a easy one to strip, as the bead was already loose and was easy to take apart. A good clean up of the inside of the tyre and the inner tube had a split of 1 .5" in it. New tube and flap fitted and the wheel went back together, just as it is shown in the manual. The front was a real swine, the bead wouldn't break and so I had to come up with 'Plan B'. I tried with pry bars and crow bars and still it wouldn't give. So a ponder about how to remove the steel insert and then a light bulb moment. A had some off cuts of the wood used for the walk ways, this is a very hard wood and would do the job. The wheel was laid on the floor and I put a piece of wood in the inside of the insert and this had a hole drilled in the centre. A piece of threaded bar bolted on, then another two pieces with holes drilled in them, put on top with the bar sticking up. The top pieces had packing put underneath it but resting on the tyre. Then I started to wind the nut down to put pressure on the tyre and then went around the bead with the pry bar and crow bar to try and free it. As the packing went slack, the nut was wound down again to put more pressure on the bead and slowly the gap started to get wider. Then by putting wood on the tyre wall and pressing down on the wood with the crow bar, there was a slight pop and the middle insert was now free. On trying to remove the flap and inner tube, I found that the flap had not been fitted correctly and was bent over on top of the tube. I carn't say if this was the cause of the puncture but having struggled to remove the flap and tube, I found a 1.5" split in the tube. A good clean out of the tyre, new tube and flap fitted and the wheel put back together, it now stands in my garage ready to be refitted, but this winter bug has put a stop to it. Brake system. The next job I had worked out to do, was to strip and remove the Master Servo Cylinder. This was a job I could do just working under cover. I started to undo the pipe unions and when it came to the Section Union, which comes from the engine it was removed and I found it full of muck and now wonder what's inside the servo. Having a look at the manual there are two leather gaiters missing off the servo and will have to have new one's made. Also I removed a brake rod from the Hand brake and tried to move the hand brake rods but it is stuck solid. The reason I wanted to work on the hand brake was to get it working again as at the moment it has bricks under the wheels. Image of the master servo and the braking system. As soon as I can get out and about, will get stuck in to the hand brake and servo and will show you what I find. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  10. Hi. Many thanks for your reply, I also have found this manual and printed it off. I'm not sure what age it is. It might be more of a modern one but I don't know what sort of age they stopped using these servo's. But there are some pages missing but hopefully between the workshop manual and this manual, put the fear and dread aside and take it apart and service it. Now the major problem has been that the top cover has been replaced with a poor replacement and not fitted correctly with the chance that over the years it has been standing that water has got into the main body. So at present it is covered over to stop any further damage to it. There is a oil cup on the top of the main body but the lid is missing and there was a large split pin put in the oil way, dont know if this was a better way of allowing oil to drip feed in to the body but I will make up a worsted plug trimming. Also I will have to replace the oil cup as it's in a bit of a bad state of repair,but when it's in the shed , bottle of beer, get my thinking cap on to see if it can be saved. I have put the makers plate off the old cover aside in a safe place, so safe I cannot find it!!. When I can find it I will post the details and see if any one can give me more information about it. Cheers. PB
  11. Hi. It was about time for a Autumn update. Chassis. After I put a shelf between the chassis for holding down the oars, I did a quick check to see how the oars would fit. I found that they would hang in mid air and would have every chance to fall in between the chassis and the road, causing some damage to the lorry. So I have sheeted the chassis up to 11' as there should be 5 x 10' wooden oars and 1 x 10' barge pole, as these are part of the equipment carried in the middle. I have to make up a system of tie downs to hold these parts on the chassis to save them from wondering off. One of the not a major problem but a bit of a pain, is the fact new angle was fitted inside the chassis but the fixing holes don't line up. So I have had to remove the covers so that I can stand up without putting a crease in my head as I tend to headbutt the chassis with the covers down. Nature has been working against me with this consent rain and tends to hold up my plans. Brakes. I have gone back over some work I did on the rear most axle, the offside brake drum was fitted but not with the brake shoes inside, when they fitted the drum was solid. So it has been a case of fit, turn - no, remove the drum clean again and refit. I can say that these Albion brake drums get to be a bit heavy and after fitting it for the fourth time, my mind started to wonder about Air Brakes. But I did get it to turn smoothly after a full days work. The brake rigging on each axle has been taken down and a few oil nipples that I have missed, have had the grease cleaned out and pumped full of oil. I'm working one section at a time to save getting parts mixed up. Looking forwards towards the cab, the next big problem is the 'Clayton Dewandre' brake srevo. This is going to be bit of a heart ache, as I have never taken one of these apart. I have basic instructions in the workshop man and have found a part of a manual on the web but could be a later type. If any one has had any experience of taking one of these apart or can help with any contacts for parts please let me know. Torque Rods. These have been freed up and pumped full of oil, but I have to take them apart so that I can fit new leather seals . Wheels. During the last couple of weeks, the front nearside and middle tyres, the inner tubes have given up and now the proud owner of two flat tyres. To ease the weight on the tyre, there are axle stands supporting them until I can replace the inner tubes and flaps, these are in the stores ready for fitting. The last two wheels have now been cleaned up from the rust and bits of rubber. They now have been painted in red oxide and when I can get some green paint, be given a couple of coats. The wheels are the spare and offside middle wheel, they will need two new tyres, inner tubes and flaps. Wanted. 5 x 10' wooden oars, 1 x 10' barge pole and two 1940's life jackets as they were part of the kit. Right next update will have some photos. P.B
  12. Hi Simon. My last posting was only meant as a light hearted comment and having looked at the photos most of the details I want are below the piles of motor bikes. If you could get permission to remove a axle, then you would need burning gear to cut it out. Some thing that is puzzling me about the wreck and that is - is it a war grave as 9 were killed when it was hit; 4 crew and 5 Royal Navy . Also, the most concerning thing is, that there divers messing around with live munitions that are getting more unsafe as time goes on. The ship deck and hold are still covered with live rounds which could still go off and supply new members to the Grim Reaper ! Even a 100 year French WW1 bomb still caused injury to a 18 year old metal detectorists, who lost his index finger and 50 pieces of shrapnel in his body when he hit the 1915 French MLE impact detonator by accident. The hospital did manage to sew his finger back on and remove all of the shrapnel. Is it time to the leave ship wreck alone like the SS RICHARD MONTGOMERY and just let it rest in peace. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  13. Hi Many thanks for the kind words and advice, it's a good feeling to know that you are doing it right. Perhaps I'm bit of 'Old School' and want to see it right and having spent many years restoring steam loco's back to their original condition has stuck with me and want it to show on the Albion. But there are times when I have completed a job, I stand back , look at it and think 'No not happy with that' and do it again. As for the rear electrics , I going to take the easy route and use the workshop diagram. I did buy a 4 way junction box and is now happly fitted to the chassis but I won't wire in the trailer adapter as there is no need for it. As the lorry is 75 years old, wont be pulling any trailers . The axle flood light will be wired in when I can get hold of one and use the bracket that is fitted at the back of the towing hook, to fit one red and one white lights to throw more light on the rear end for any following motorist Simon, on your next visit I would like to see any photo's you can get of the BY3 's on the wreck for my own collection. And perhaps you could take a couple of air bags, box of spanners , unbolt a rear axle, fill the air bags with air from a couple of handy air cylinders you took down with you on the dive and float the axle to the surface. Might be a bit of a job fitting it into your luggage but just push it with your foot and tell Customs it's a very old wheel barrow ! I can then strip out the rear diff as trying to get one in this Country is very rare and reverse engineering to make one is very expensive. Cheers. Paul Burns
  14. Hi Andy. Many thanks for your kind words about the project and it has been a labour of love. My biggest problem has been working on it outside and trying to dodge the bad weather, rain, frost, snow, more rain ! Another problem has been with it being the only one, you are stuck to go and have a look at another BY5 to check on parts etc. I have had to work from the offical war time photo's of a BY5 and size it to what should be the correct size, then with a handy piece of cardboard make one - then try for size and adjust. Then cut out - a bit of trial and error As for lifting heavy parts around, I have a handy sack truck and having strong arms, thick back and being daft in the head helps ! But the dear wife keeps telling me - "You are 65 not 18, be careful" I'm sure that once you get taking a few parts off your Land Rover, you will find that restoration will be in your blood. Right, I have wanted to finish off the small annoying jobs that if I don't do them then they will never get done. So I'm going to wire up the rear light, fit the junction box and the two way switch. Now this where the problem starts. If you look at the start of page 3, there is a copy of the wiring diagram that is in the workshop manual. I was going to use this to sort out the light, on the rear BUT on checking the drivers manual there is a different diagram. The diagram from the workshop manual shows at the rear a tail lamp, junction box, feed off to the trailer adapter, carries on to a two way switch and the rear axle floodlamp. Okay so what's the problem? well on the drivers manual diagram, it shows a feed to a stop lamp switch, then to the junction box , with a feed off to the stop lamp, feed to the tail lamp, then to the two way switch for the axle floodlamp. So which one do I do, this would explain the lamp bracket under the tow hook with two red lights fitted and the pull out switch but not sure on how or where to fit the stop lamp switch or what type to use. Or shall I just fit as per the workshop manual Regards. Paul Burns.
  15. The rearlight bracket photo has appeared 3 times, I can say that there is only one bracket. PB
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