Richard Farrant

Neil, OEP 220 is specified by military as 80w/90EP or 90EP, no reference to the GL number in the Defence Standards that I have. Think in a Stalwart there is no problem with yellow metals, so a standard 90EP should be OK. DEFSTAN states that 220 is not suitable for use in systems with copper alloy bearings, so as it is the specified oil, should be no problem there. OMD 75 is not a straight SAE30 oil, it was specified as a 10w/30 diesel oil, later superceded by OMD80, which is to API performance classification CD/SE. It is often stated on a certain forum relating to these vehicles that they must have SAE30 in them, because RR said so. Well I was working on vehicles with these engines in REME workshops for many years, and only these multigrades were used and specified. The confusion often comes from old manuals, that have not been amended with the later lubricants. Originally it was OMD110 (superceded in the very early 1970's by OMD75) in the engine, a SAE30, as RR recommended at the time, but they did not bother to amend there spec. when multigrades were introduced, unlike other engine manufacturers. Most RR B range engines in use today would have spent there life on multigrades, so to revert now, to a monograde would be of little benefit. You may find a surplus dealer who has some OX320, it was often supplied in 1 pint cans, we knew it as Achesons Colloidal Graphite. I remember reading a report of a trial using this mix in the hubs of Alvis FV600 series and both Alvis and MVEE decided it was of little advantage as tracta joints were still siezing with or without it, so we stopped using it. It is entirelly your choice to use it of course. Hope this all makes sense! Richard

Graham, I remember that one, it must have been nearly 4 years ago, never really took off. I notice the MVPA no longer run a forum, it is now part of the G503 forum. This one and the Maple Leaf Up Forum are by far the best on the web for information.........and free from the idiots who tend to ruin it for others. Well done, Jack. I was not very happy at the changes at first, but now the "unread messages" facility is back on board, it is working well. Even found I can post my pics straight of my computor files rather than use slopbucket or whatever it was called..........sorry, photobucket :-D Carry on the good work Richard MVT member since 1978

Neil, Coming from the M20, just follow the truck signs for Paddock Wood, you will go straight past it. It is a road well used by foreign trucks bringing in produce for cold stores. Wait till you get to the Toll Booths on the crossing, you will have to climb over the cab to pay them :-D Richard

Steve, To decypher the badge, it is 4 - King - W Anchor. Just keep repeating it and you will see its meaning :-D As for the motto, that an old one, meaning something like, "don't let the b*****ds grind you down". No, I don't think this was anactual US unit :-) Richard

Windscreen (MVCG / MVT club mag) - a number of articles since around 1980. Imprint (IMPS club mag) - again a number of articles since the early Eighties. Most recent was in last issue on rallying a BSA WM20 motorcycle. Wheels & Tracks - submitted information and photos on several occasions. Richard

This is my main gripe about the new set up. I use the most common 800x600, which those of us old farts can read easily. Setting it on 1024x768 is not easy to read, anyway, I have no problems with any other forum than this new revamped one. Maybe other forums should be looked at to see how they look. I use MLU Forum regularly and the only time this spills of the end of the screen is if someone inadvertently posts too large a picture attachment. there is nothing worse than side shifting left, right, left, just so you can read the message. Let us hope this can soon be rectified. I am now pleased to see a return of the "view messages posted since last on", under my name on the right of the home page. Richard

Ahhmmm......really?  I saw the crankshaft pulley  Richard

I agree with you Paul ! Jack, when ever I view the forum, the first thing I do is click on the "view posts since last on" or whatever it was, at the top right hand of the old page. Now I am totally lost. I have to say one thing, although I may be in the minority, then ignore me (!), "what ain't broke, does'nt need mending". The original forum layout was superb and I am not sure this is an improvement, also the page is wider than the screen and I have to scroll across all the time. This was a problem with Yahoo forums, but they have recently rectied the problem. Sorry to complain, but i hope this is a constructive critisism. Richard

Hi Jack, I bought a WM20 in 1983 and restored it, still have it although not ridden lately. A pretty original 1941 model, I did over 13,000 miles on it, travelling to shows, etc. It only let me down once, requiring an AA Relay home, but all other problems encountered, I was able to get home under my own much reduced steam. The BSA is still good for parts, although cost of parts has risen along with the value of the bikes. You have to watch out for some pattern parts, probably originating from the Far East area. This was the reason for my relay home, substandard clutch parts. As for riding, I loved it. After riding modern bikes, at that time, Moto Guzzis, it was quite a contrast. So long as you did not push it too hard, braking and handling not up to modern standards. I found that it paid to watch the road surface ahead, for potholes, badly filled trenches, etc. as they can pitch you off or get a tank slapper. Lots of fun though. Best time with it was on a Guernsey Liberation Tour in 1990, I rode from Kent to Poole, had a week riding around the island, then rode home and in all that time, the only thing needing doing was to adjust the clutch cable. Are you convinced that you need one now ?? Richard

Richard, You are right, OC600 will not mean much, unless you get someone who is ex-army maybe. Already covered in a current thread, but it is a Straight 140 gear oil (not to be confused with 140EP, which is not suitable). Richard

Neil...and Richard, Fitting the wheel can be done on your own using a shovel, not one of those entrenching types but a wide builders type, so long as the handle is good! Also Richard, at your work, you may use pallet trucks, they work well so long as you line the wheel up first or get someone else to turn the hub for you. Re. the oil, I used to work on loads of the old 10 tonners, but it is too far back to remember, it is either OEP 220 or maybe OC600. Richard

Hi Pete, You have left the comfort of MLU forum to join us, nice to see you. It would good to see the Retriever out, but I can see you have other projects on the go to keep you occupied. Richard

Buster, the 432 pack consists of engine, gearbox, radiators and cooling fans. It is mounted in a frame, all cable harnesses and connecting fuel pipes, etc. on the vehicle are extra long so that with the pack removed and close to the front of the vehicle, it can be reconnected and run up. All servicing can then be done out of the vehicle and tests for leaks made before refitting. Richard

Mick, It is a Towing Ambulance, in other words, an ambulance for sick vehicles, not specifically to tow ambulances. Used by REME with the 3ton Breakdown Gantry trucks. The front of the casualty could be lifted by the gantry. with the front axle beam on the supports and secured, then the gantry could tow the lot away. There is a photo of one in use in the book, Breakdown by Brian baxter, a history of British recovery equipment, used in RAOC and REME. Richard

It is not uncommon for WW2 British vehicles to have oil grades changed postwar. A lot of this was to rationalise oil types for practical reasons in service, C600 was not used so much in postwar kit, plus the fact it is very heavy in cold weather. Some Morris Com C8 tractor went to Korea for instance and 600 would have taken a while to warmup in the cold out there. Try contacting Morris Lubricants in Shrewsbury, for your nearest stockist. My source is their distribution depot in Kent, but they only cover South of the Thames. Richard

Mick, I totally agree, regarding the articles on modern vehicles, how can these be classics? If a classic car magazine started filling its pages with the latest from the Detroit and Turin Motor Shows the readers would react. I have actaully stopped buying the two mags now, unless thee is an article of particular interest in there. As a coincidence, I have just been going through some Wheels & Tracks mags looking for some info and have to say that they had it right, just a little on modern kit but the bulk on collectors pieces....and the information was spot on, unlike some of the newer mags, with glaring mistakes in them. Just read the latest MVT Windscreen mag and it is by far a better read. My thoughts. Richard

Hi, I use quite a bit of C600 in my work. The civvy equivalent grade is SAE140 Straight Gear oil, I get mine from Morris Lubricants in 25 litre drum, Silkolene also did it, remember this is a straight gear oil, do not confuse it with 140EP which should not be used if there is an "yellow" metals in the gearbox / axle, etc. Richard

Ian, The chassis number is definitely LHD Series 3, with 2.25 petrol engine and 4 speed gearbox, according to the VIN breakdown. There are several possibilities here, a) that it was converted to RHD after disposal, in order to be more saleable in UK, b) that the data plates have been switched to another vehicle, this can be proven by locating the VIN number which is stamped on the chassis, and c) that the vehicle was converted to RHD whilst in Service. You could check to see if there are signs of the steering relay being fitted in the nearside location on the front cross member. Just to show that vehicles in Service were actually changed over, here is an example I came across whilst working in REME. I was involved in building the ceremonial Lightweights for the Honourable Artillery Company, used for Royal birthday salutes at the Tower of London, one of these vehicles had a military VIN plate with LHD on, but was actually RHD. They were vehicles that had seen considerable service before we rebuilt them, possibly brought back from Germany. Richard

That would be one thats had a rear end shunt then ? Richard L/R 110 = long wheelbase L/R 90 = short wheelbase

Wayne, It appears to glow in the dark, so maybe it is is radioactive ?? :lol: Richard

Welcome to the forum Wayne. I drove a WW2 Willys jeep up through the Flinders back in 2000. We stopped at Hawker, Blinman, Parachilna Gorge and on to Copley, taking part in Trackers 2000 from Adelaide to Alice. Great country to drive in. I once came across a IIa ex-Australian army fire truck in a wreckers yard at Wodonga. Fell in love with it, but had to be realistic, it would have cost a mint to ship back to UK. Richard

Mick, The one in your photo is based on a 90/110 with coil front suspension, but there is also another ex-army trials Centaur around that was based on a Series 3 with leaf springs, think it was called Stage 1, as it had the V8 engine and grille right to the front (easily mistaken as a 90/110). Richard

Thanks for your thoughts. I only mentioned a RB340 as an example of a possible unit to use. Reason I did not post on Gee, is that I did not want people from outside UK giving me examples of regulators than are not readily available in UK. A well respected jeep specialist in England advises that 6v jeep dynamos can be used for 12v, so I am basing my assumptions on that. I am open to any well founded advice from anyone who has actually done this. As to fitting an alternator, then you have the problem of fitting a wider pulley on it to suit the belt, sooner fit a C45 dynamo. Richard

Karoshi, It is quite a common practise to retain the 6v dynamo in conversions, many jeeps are done like this. The dynamo does not just generate 6 volts, it is probably in the region of 15, this is what the voltage regulator does, to bring the volts down to the requirement. All I was asking was if anyone had done this, what was the regulator they used, to save experimenting. Thanks for your reply. Richard

Thanks Jack, I was expecting one of those three to have an answer on this Richard