Richard Farrant

Jack, As a full time restorer of military vehicles, I prime bare metal with red oxide, a couple of coats if neccessary and use a gloss green as a barrier coat, usually Deep Bronze Green (Land Rover green, available at tractor dealers for good price). You will find if you use red oxide and then finish with matt olive drab that moisture will get through the paint and rust spots can appear. When gloss is dry, flat off with scotchbrite pad or similar and apply your chosen colour. My choice for practical reasons of keeping the vehicle looking tidy is semi matt. It has a slight sheen that goes off after time, but paint is more durable and if oil or grease gets on it, it can be cleaned off without marking the paint. Something that is not possible with dead flat matt. My thoughts on the subject ....... Kewelde

Hi Jack, I have been a member of MVT since 1978 (it was MVCG in those days), and an original member of IMPS since 1980. That makes me feel old.... Oh, nearly forgot, been a member of MVPA since '95 as well. Kewelde

Jack, It is a few years since I had a pulley of a Jimmy engine, but the pulleys serve as harmonic balancers, that is why there is rubber in them. You are left with the hub on the crankshaft and you will need a good puller, dont forget the centre of the puller has to go in through the starting handle dog to bear against the crank. I am now doubtful whether the key is the problem, my guess now is that you felt movement in the rubber bonding of the pulley, unless you actually saw the starting dog part, move as well. Kewelde

Jack, You mentioned that there was originally slack in the pulley on the key. Did you actaully feel that? If so, then I reckon what has happened is that the key has worn in to one side of the key way in the pulley and you are pulling aginst the key. Your next move would be to drive it back and hope that it comes loose again and see if it will line up, key to keyway. Maybe not easy to understand, but I have seen this many times. what sort of puller were you using? A hydraulic one should be best as more load can be applied. I think the knock would more likely be a timing gear loose on a keyway, so once the pulley is removed, check to see any evidence in the pulley and crank and if not sure, remove timing cover for further inspection. Kewelde

Richard, As you mentioned M16, nuts must be 5/8" diam. Not sure how long the rim bolts are, but those on a Ferret wheel are listed as 1 3/16" long x 5/8"UNF. Taper seat nuts go with them. Another alternative is to use either these Ferret rim nuts or Ferret wheel nuts, also 5/8" UNF and weld in a suitable length 5/8" UNF bolt. Bolt rims together and tighten, in order to pull into line, before welding heads. A source for these Ferret nuts is Richard Banister 01797 253211 Part no's; Wheel nut RH thread 5310-99-910-7654 Rim clamping nut 5310-99-910-7656 Rim bolt 2530-99-809-2685 if no stock, try Marcus Glenn regards, Ayefve

Richard, Use the gas to heat the nuts to expand them .....not cut them off. That is your only answer, if you want to save them, I have had to resort to doing this just getting the wheel nuts off on old Militants. Kewelde

Richard, Your answer is to use oxy/acet torch, a big one, so that the nut is heated fast, and have a 3/4"inch or 1 inch drive air wrench ready with a six sided socket. the tube will not suffer if the torch is not played on the rim and don't forget that there should be a gaiter fitted to all split rims. I spent many year working on British army vehicles in their workshops and Militants featured heavily at one time. I cannot be sure, but thought the bolts were secured in the rim? The nuts are taper seat and should not be replaced with ordinary nuts as the two rim halves will not centralise. You mentioned the bolts being M16, doubtlfull, unless they have been replaced, more like 5/8" and they would be either BSF or BSW if it is a Mk1 Millie. Best of luck. Kewelde

Lloyd, You will have to check out your new harness to ascertain the ammeter and ign. switch feeds, A and A1 respectively. Wiring should be done using the correct colour codes for particular circuits and I see White with black tracer is "ign coil to distributor", that would be from the CB or + terminal on the coil. As I do not know how the Jolley system is wired, I cannot comment on that, assume it is already wired up from what you say. F, D and E is as you say, correct. regards, Kewelde

Lloyd, If you have a Lucas voltage regulator, then you should have a dynamo and not an alternator. The terminal A on the regulator goes to the ammeter and from there to the live side of the starter switch. Terminal A1 feeds the ignition switch. Regarding wires from the HT side of coil.........there is only one, the thick one in the middle which goes to the middle of the dist. cap. :wink: Kewelde

Mesowax khaki / olive is what RR supply.

Grainger's Mesowax.....that is available in olive / khaki flavour as well as clear. I think Fabsil is a silicone product. Kewelde

Hello Richard, I think you will now find that the old loop hole of Mobile Cranes has now been tightened up, as that catagory now requires HGV licence. regards, Kewelde

Hi Shane, Mind if I jump in on this one? It depends on the build date of the RL, bearing in mind they were built from 1952 to 1969. Any built from 1960 onwards would come outside of the exemption. Regarding GMC 352 they are pre1945 so no problem there. Kewelde

Hi all, Looking forward to taking part in this forum, hopefully it will have an even spread of vehicles to discuss, not predominantly US as some other forums. From this you may understand that I am an enthusiast of British (and Commonwealth) vehicles from 1930's to present day. I have been working on military vehicles for over 31 years now as a full time job, firstly with the MoD Workshops and then with my own business after the Workshops closed. Not only is Military Vehicles my profession, it has also been my hobby, for a longer period than that, starting with two BSA B40WD motorcycles, one British Army and the other, Royal Navy. I have been a member of MVCG / MVT since 1978 and also an original member of IMPS when it started in 1980. regards, Kewelde