Richard Farrant

Andy, When I first started in this pastime, the date was pre-1939 and it was amazing how many WW2 trucks were made prewar, even GMC CCKW Richard

Yorkie, I think that has been tried before, it is aimed at things like childrens play buses, mobile exhibitions, etc. Classic vehicles don't really come in to that. At least if it is tested you can carry something without the fear of running foul of the law. Richard

I have no doubt the engine and gearbox has been changed a number of times in the vehicles life. Originally it would have had the early version of the B80, known as the BSF engine, not only because of the use of BSF threads, but other things as well. Parts were not so plentiful and they would have been superceded. Also the gearbox did not have a neutral strut in the early one, so when selecting N, it actually part engaged 1st and 3rd, again these boxes would have become obsolete. Back in the late 80's, a friend bought a Mk1 to restore and it was still fitted with the early engine and gearbox, must have been out of reserve stock I reckon. Richard

Hi Saracenstump, I have found a pic of 30BA00, think that may be a prototype. Then there are a lot of pics of 30BA78 taken during trials at MVEE, so looks like yours is early. Must be a Mk1, does it have a BSF engine and no neutral strut in the gearbox? Richard

Hello Lee, That would be No.3 then? According to my notes, I worked on 32BA78, No.4, back in 1980. Also just noticed about the same time, also worked on a Saracen, 32BA24, that must also be an early one. Richard PS had a look at the Saladin yet?

Neil, This because of the "No-Spin" diff. It does not happen with Saracens as they have conventional diffs. One reason for Stalwarts to suffer tracta failure, sometimes more often than Saracen or Saladin, is the angle of the drive shafts from inner to outer tractas. Stalwarts have the suspension set so that when loaded the shafts are nearly level, consequently when running around unladen the joints are going through a wide angle of articulation. When I worked on all these sort of vehicles for REME, we had some Stalwarts used by a training unit, never laden, so cured a lot of the problems by setting suspension heights similar to a Saracen. Richard

I had two B40 m/cycles in the early 70's, one was ex-army and the other ex-Royal Navy, it was only 3 years old when disposed off. Richard

I see the EM reg now! They were under trial for the next fleet of 3 tonners. 05EM45 was one that took part in trials and demos at Chertsey, called a Commer CB. They classed as 4.5 ton and were pitted against a 4wd Austin FJ and a Bedford R Mk2, the later being the forerunner of the MK. The contract winner was Bedford with the MK to replace the RL. This Commer would have a multifuel version of the Rootes TS3 two stroke engine. There was a restored one in the Kent / sussex area a few years ago, it had the original body. Richard

Richard, Guess we will have some confusion from now on then :lol: Richard, the other one

Andy, Those serials with first letter E started in early 1960's and the F range started in 1967. EA, EB, EC, ED and EE were asigned to "A" vehicles. For "B" vehicles, EK, EL, EM, EN, EP, ER, ES and ET. the sequence starts 00EK01 through to 99EK99, then 00EL01 and so on. I would hazard a guess we are talking around 1963-65 give or take a year. A few examples of EM range; 07EM75 Land Rover 2a 109" 06EM45 ditto 00EM88 ditto 09EM27 ditto 13EM99 ditto 14EM54 ditto 15EM46 Bedford RLC3 platform truck 04EM23 Two wheeled dropside farm trailer 24EM31 Land Rover 2a 109" ambulance The highest number I came across, is the ambulance, lots more Land Rovers interspursed with those listed. Theoretically the range would have been worked out and EN carried on. I do have a recollection of AEC 10 tonners with EN on, or was that ER ?? Hope this helps. Richard

Correct, I have one of each and mixed the description of the handle with the Cabinet. Recently bought a new set of straight blade screwdrivers and they have a metal pad on the end of the handle, which it says, is for striking with a hammer! What is annoying is that they are heavily magnetised, and whenever I lay them on the bench after a bit of filing or sawing, the bloody things are bristling with filings from stem to stern Richard

I do not recollect a "barman" file, but much mirth was raised when mentioning a "bas...tard" file, prehaps it is one and the same? The London pattern screwdriver is a beauty to use, it has a wooden handle rounded and slightly oval that fits the hand well, the shaft is usually flat along whole length, mine I have had for over 30 years and if I caught anyone using it as a lever, they would get flogged Richard

I thought he might have been he would have needed a chisel as well to dismantle :lol: To those that have or are looking at getting old British vehicles, Whitworth spanners are not so easy to locate and can be expensive compared to metric. I have come across Whit combination sets and sockets, ranging from 3/16" to 1/2" on some of the cheap tool stalls at shows. For the occasional hobby use these are not bad, in fact they are cheep enough to buy three sets and keep the others for spares. I saw some at a show last year at £10 a set and on another stall, same set at £5. You would have a job to buy one spanner for that price at a tool shop. Richard

Jack, I was recently called the "Tank Doctor" on account I was wearing white overalls and using a pair of medical forceps for a fiddly job on a tank :lol: I would go for an 8 to 10 ton bottle jack, they are reasonable priced and going over your required capacity means it will be less stressed and easier to use. I can only find laden axle weights for a Studebaker 6x6 (similar), but front axle is around 2 ton, which only means 1 ton on each front wheel. If that is a help. Richard

Hmmm.........seen them, read about them but never tried them. I would sooner have a good fitting open ender. Richard

Richard, Thats a good quote. It is not always possible to do the job with standard issue tools. I have made many specials, either spanners, pullers, etc. Also each vehicle had many special tools, which are no longer available now, so it is a matter of adapting or making them. Take the Saracen, Stalwart, Saladin range, there were many specials made for them. If you are only in to one particular vehicle, it would be sensible to obtain a standard set of tools to compliment it, ie spanner sizes for all known hexagons, in sockets, (3/8" and 1/2" drive), cranked rings, open ended and combination. Richard ( I'm getting confused, am I the other one, or is that you?)

Maybe he was a tyre fitter or a blacksmith ?? I worked for REME in their workshops for 22 years as a fitter and we had a lot more than hammers. Mind you some of the jobs that came in, could have been attempted by your mate :lol: At one time the basic VM toolbox was a pathetic assortment of tools, as you say, a couple of hammers, three crescent adjustable spanners and one of each size spanner. We were lucky in having good kit, needing it too, with the variety of vehicles and equipment to work on. Richard

Neil, In fact when stands are made, they should be tested for a 50% overload. I prefer these newer type with the ratchet lock, rather than those with a pin through the hole. The ratchet ones are more variable in height and lock well with the weight on them. The pin type sometimes loose the correct pin and any old bolt or piece of rod gets substituted, which may not take the load and could possibly shear. Richard

Hi Matt, You are obviously well into it already I was aiming at the basics for starters. Yes, some of the old war surplus tools are good, but remember they may be getting a bit worn by now, unless they are unissued stock. Also, more modern spanners, tend not to be so "chunky" and fit better in tight to get at places. Too jump a little, jacks and stands.....make sure you know the weight you are jacking, then you need to ensure the capacity of your jack is correct for the job, also the axle stand. Never depend on a jack alone, always have blocks of wood or stands under the vehicle near to the jacking point. I have no problems with trolley jacks, equally as good as a bottle jack, but if there are any leaks or faults these should be dealt with before an accident arises. In some cases, blocks of timber are safer than using stands, such as under the belly of an armoured vehicle. Richard

Hi all, Jack has asked me to do a piece on choosing tools and equipment for maintaining or restoring MV's. Having been in vehicle engineering for nearly 40 years, the last 32 of them working on military vehicles, I should be able to answer any questions. For those new to the hobby, you may be wondering what tools to buy, well this depends on a lot of things; a) are you just servicing and leaving repairs to others. b) doing all repair work c) carrying out full restoration then you have to look at the type of vehicle; a) motorcycle b) light to medium vehicle, ie jeep, Land Rover up to Dodge, MW, etc. c) heavy vehicle, ie Jimmy, Bedford, Austin, AEC, Scammell, etc. d) armour wheeled and tracked The answers to these questions, will relate to the type and quantity of tools needed. Some will go out and buy a ready to go tool kit. It is unlikely to have all you need and undoubtedly, a lot you do not need! Now let us look at basics, spanners and sockets. There are three types, Whitworth, AF (National Fine and National Coarse) and Metric. Most ready to go tool boxes will have only Metric. If you own for instance, a WW2 Morris Commercial, then you will find that all the nuts and bolts are of BSF or BSW (British Standard Fine and British Standard Whitworth, the later being a coarse thread). Spanners to fit these are known as Whit. or Whitworth, so that is what you need. It is also likely that in later life, a few odd bolts will have been substituted, ie NF/NC or Metric. A Land Rover Series II or III will need mostly AF spanners, but a few Whit. ones will still be needed in places, such as axles. A late L/Rover, such as 90/110 will be predominantly metric, but still likely to need the odd Whit. Now if it were a European MV, such as a SUMB or VW Trekker, G-wagen, etc., then metric will be required. Those that have the cash to spend will no doubt go for all three ranges, but it is when you get to over 1/2" Whit, 1" AF, or 25mm, that these tools get expensive, so you will have to identify what you are likely to need in these larger sizes. I will break off here for now, no doubt some will want to comment or ask more, good thing, because I do not want to teach my gran to suck eggs, by going back to basics, although I feel some will appreciate it. One last little story, when I was an apprentice back in the 60's, I asked the fitters in the workshop, what spanner sizes I ought to buy. They said don't bother with Whitworth, its on the way out, a waste of money! Now here am I, 40 years later still using those Whitworth every day of the week. Good job I took no notice of their advice :lol: Richard

The two Cromwells were in fact genuine, also a Centaur was used. As the Cromwell was derived from the Centaur, at a glance, you could get away with it. Better than a mock up thats for sure. Richard

According to the chap who came down to look the crane over, the Museum is creating a display of WW2 RAF ground equipment. Not having been up there for some years I am not sure which building, but I got the impression they would be mingled with aircraft. They have been restoring a Bedford MWC water tanker and a OXC artic tractor, amongst others. I thought he said the display was due to open this year. Richard

There may be a Thornycroft Amazon Coles crane, at Duxford. Just over a year ago, my friend sold his Austin K6 Coles crane to Duxford museum. They wanted it for a new display as, they told me, that the Thornycroft they had wanted too much work to be done to it. Also, I was told of another up for sale, in the Notts. area, about 18 months ago. Richard

Clive, The set I described, from Boyers, would not have an issue with twin points or number of cylinders as it is wired between the coil and dist. terminal. Not sure they do a 24v. version, but considering it improves the spark, I would have thought the facility for supplying the coil with 24v for starting could be eliminated, so that only 12v is used for the ignition at all times. Richard

Jack, I see the nut laying on the truck, you do not use that with the wire brush, only to retain grinding wheels. The wire wheel is tightened on to the backing washer, which is keyed to the shaft, looks like it is place on your grinder in the photo. Richard