Richard Farrant

Feel sure I have seen a really early WOT2 with vertical bars on rad grille, with an oval stamped out plate on the grille, proclaiming "Fordson". Richard

Well done John :-) Clive, you put us off the trail early on when someone asked if the "cage" was a lamp guard. I suppose it was not as no lamps are fitted to the stimulator, but it does represent one, still it kept it going for a while. Now.....what about a WW2 era object for the next one :evil: Richard

Hey, come on Jack! Scammells are a man's lorry, when you can change gear up and down without a crunch, you have made it :wink: Richard

Micheal, Not really :oops: I neglected to say that Chevrolet (being another GM company) also had steel balls in the flywheel. Could you take a photo of the back of the flywheel showing rim and clutch, that should give me more info. Richard

Am I allowed to say what it is now, Clive? :evil:

Hi Michael, A Bedford flywheel ignition timing mark is actually a steel ball set in, so that when a neon timing light is used it shows up bright. Plug gaps are 0.037" to 0.040" inch Points are 0.010" - 0.012" inch Timing degrees are not actually stated Richard

A lot of the adverts in CMV have been on Milweb for sometime prior. In my experience, you get very few genuine enquiries when on the website, but as soon as magazine hits the shelves, the phone starts ringing. Richard

Tim, Thought it was an OT, but may be wrong, not an expert on German kit. I just caught a glimpse of the reg. plate on the jeep when he pulled up in the street, and thought it was a Dutch plate, again could be wrong. Richard

Tony, I do not know what age your Land Rover is, but if it were pre-1972 (I think, give or take a year), it could be exempt Road Tax...........BUT, not if it has a Q plate. These were issued where no proof of year of manufacture was given on registration, or it may have been imported. Way to get a normal age related plate is for the vehicle to be vetted by one of the DVLA approved clubs, such as IMPS or MVT in military circles, for its year of manufacture, etc. Richard

Did anyone see the episode of Midsomer Murders on ITV Sunday night? The unfortunate victim this week was found dead in a WW2 Humber Snipe staff car on an old airfield. His father had a farm, the yard full of assorted MV's, inc. Bedford OY, Ferret, Jeep, OT810 half track and a Scammell Pioneer. The none speaking person "working" on the half track was none other than Pete Gaine, well known dealer in Bedfords and parts. The Scammell, was Swampy, the last serving Pioneer in the British Army. Some years ago it was brought back from Belize, severely decayed in the woodwork dept., and restored by REME, to a fine finish. Richard

Richard, The Release Note shows that the vehicle has been officially released from Government ownership. I am not sure what your MV is, or its age, but if it were released many years ago and has gone through various ownerships, then a receipt from previous owner(s) may be acceptable if a release note is not available. It may be more wise to visit the local DVLA office and explain all this, rather than sending a bundle of papers. If there is an issue over its year of manufacture, an authenticity letter from the appropriate person in MVT or IMPS clubs would be required. (Just seen another message from you, about your 1944 C8GS, it is unreasonable of DVLA to expect the release note to have survived this long. There is every chance that the vehicle has been register before after demob., in that case the Release Note would already have been submitted to the authorities of the time.) Richard

Frame over a small charging set or generator?

Christopher, I have changed a good number of these and providing a gorilla has not tightened the three bolts holding the starter on, it is relatively straight forward. First take the engine deck off and then disconnect the batteries. The exhaust elbows should be removed from the manifolds, the gaskets will have to be renewed. The crankcase beather pipe above the starter can get in the way so best remove it, also disconnect tacho cable. Remove the three cables from starter. Now, always do the awkward lower bolt first, if you get a combination spanner and cut it in half or there abouts, it will allow you more movement, although the initial pull may be difficult. With a piece of webbing strap or similar around the starter to support it, you will be able to manhandle it without crushing your hand underneath it. Repeat procedure for refitting. It is as easy as that :wink: Richard

There is one at Crawley, belonging to a chap named Rob. Richard

Part of a radio set?

Michael, Then you have a 214 engine, not exactly sure when it was introduced but around mid-50's, they did evolve over the years, last used in TK and TJ up in to early 80's. The QL had a 28hp engine bud with deep end in sump with strainer on oil pump, it would not be necessary to use that engine in a CMP because the front axle is further forward than a QL, giving adequate clearance. You hear stories that the army converted CMP to Bedford engines, but I am certain this was not a general case, because the British disposed of their CMP vehicles early on, having more than enough British made vehicles and spares to be going on with. These mods would have been done in civvy street, undoubtably. I have not fitted a 214 to a CMP, but have done it to a Bedford MW. The 214 used, was a army rebuild, for a TK, the clutch housing had to be changed over in order to get the rear engine mountings to fit, then it was found the flywheel was smaller, and starter different. Other than that the rest of the engine was the same. To answer your question on the clutch, you will have to remove it or take the pan off and post a pic of the clutch. The drive plate can be relined by a motor factor or matched up for a replacement. Richard

Part of a motor cycle engine? Looks like cooling fins on upper right. Richard

Usually the Bedford 28 hp engine (as in Bedford MW, OY, etc.) is substituted as it is of the same capacity as the Chev, but that engine does not have "Bedford" stamped in to the rocker cover. Is the cover secured to the head by screws around the rim? If so, it is a post war version known as the 214 cu.in. (again similar capacity). Richard

Clive, I think it is the UV rays that harm the rubber. You could make up some wood ply boards to fit under the lip of the mudguard to keep light off them. Also helps to keep the tyres off the ground. Some years ago, I think at Stoneleigh militaria, I bought a gallon of stuff that was ex-US military and for painting on tyres or any rubber products to prevent from aging. Richard

My last guess, did'nt want to win it anyway It is for testing the missile, hence the toggle switch..........probably wrong Richard

Clive, It is a transit locking device, and has to be removed (+ fin fitted) before firing (???) Richard

REME ??????? I think you will find they are Royal Engineers equipment, of course REME will be there when they break them :evil: Richard

Lee, I know Steve from Comptons, some years ago he made a complete set of canvas, sidescreens and seat covers for a Bedford MW that I was restoring. The work was excellent, with all the authentic fittings. Richard

Clive, Carried specifically on RAC Hornets ? Or a range of RAC vehicles? Richard

Mark, Do you have a knocking noise as well as the visual wobble, especially when the steering is on lock? If it is not something simple like loose wheel nuts, bent rim, etc, then it could be a wheel bearing loose or collapsed, or a tracta joint that is siezing. Drive it around on lock, and listen for noises. When a joint has got a sieze, it semi welds to the other part, ending with a hole on one and a pimple on the other part, if the joint is moved of the normal line of drive to say a slight lock, then the pimple will ride out of the hole and the shaft rotation can be "notchy", ........a possible cause. I worked on Foxs (along with all the other vehicles that Her Majesty had), from when they entered service around 1975 to there demise around 1994. Richard