Richard Farrant

Hi Steve, Check this thread from the past, it may help you; http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?23893-Certificate-of-Conformity-and-registering-Jeep

I actually removed a pinion assy. on a Carrier axle without a special tool to renew the bearings, so a bit of ingenuity might be required.

I have found pinions with both thread forms strangely, maybe a difference between British and North American manufacture.

Is this the Panther that was found in Hardwicks of Ewell scrapyard many years ago?

There was a special extractor, listed in the Canadian Carrier manual but not in the British ones. Here is a picture;

Just as an update to anyone who has to come down to Kent tomorrow, Operation Stack has expanded from J9 though to 11 now and as I write this.

Brakes are a life and death matter and I would not advocate what you suggest, besides seals there are other things to consider, like whether the brake hoses would be affected by mineral oil and also the viscosity of a mineral oil above a DOT4 could affect to functioning of the master cylinder. Definitely a no-no in my book.

Hi Matt, Wonderful to see this old girl working. Sounds like she is running really well. Your property has some real tank driving ground on it. regards, Richard

I can give you an on the spot report as I live close by J10 of M20. Just been explaining to a customer how to get to Ashford avoiding M20/A20. Hopefully this French farce will not continue much longer, but if you look at a map you will see M2 /A2 to Canterbury , then Stone Street heading for Hythe brings you on to J11 by the Racecourse. Those coming from West could use A21 then cut across to Ashford. As the M20 is only closed currently between J8 and J9, this and the A20 between Maidstone and Ashford is the routes to avoid. A20 from Ashford to Racecourse is OK at this time. I certainly would not let this upset my W&P plans.

Doug, As a past participant of the Corowa Swim-In you would have received one of the brass plaques, made by the same process by a company in Qld called Mastercuts. They do an excellent job as I have designed them for the last 4 years and very pleased at the results. So there are companies in your own country to seek out. regards, Richard

Andy, I was trying to think what make mine were, they are Elora, here is an example; http://www.craigmoreonline.co.uk/screwdriver-socket-3mm-plain-slot/?gclid=CMLMsqarucYCFY7ItAod0OsAqg

Andy, I know this link is from the US, but the bits in the photo should be off the shelf at your local tools store. Try Lawson in Southampton they might have them. You can use them on an impact driver if it is 1/2" drive. http://www.core77.com/posts/24121/Tool-Terminology-A-Drag-Link-Socket-is-a-Large-Hollow-Ground-Screwdriver-Bit

Hi Matt, That was excellent! She sounds good, I recollect you had an engine out when I was up at your place and fired it up on the floor. Keep up the good work! regards, Richard

Strange this, as I have had a number of wiring harnesses made by Auto Sparks, one being for a MW. All of them were colour coded, not only did it match the wiring diagram colours in the manual but also it is the standard code for vehicle electrics by Lucas, so easy to follow. I lay the harness out on a table first and using a meter run through each one and put a masking tape tag on the end of each one as to where it goes.

To add to Clive's post, I can say for sure, that when the Triumph TRW, and later on the BSA B40 (from 1967) came into service, they were both Deep Bronze Green. What happened after that depended on where they served and current paint instructions at the time.

The Daimler A/c parts list would be a good start, they usually list length and diameter of pipe, there should be a pipe fitting on the block under the distributor, where the warning light switch is. Check threads, likely to be BSP but verify. People like Paul Beck stock fittings and nipples.

Hi Rick, It is entirely likely that when the company undertook to clear the scrap, there was an agreement it was reduced to scrap and to go against that they may well loose any future work from the authority they are working for or suffer a penalty. Sad I know, and a bitter pill to swallow.

Hi Terry, Looks like Sean has set me up on this! Actually, I think it is quite a simple issue to explain. Where the exhaust leaves the manifold, there is an elbow with two tubes which engage with another elbow on the hull side. They are intentionally free because there is slight movement in the engine mountings. When new, the swaged ends of tubes are snug in the elbows, but after a long time the elbows wear inside and the steel tube tends to flake a bit on the swages making them loose. On the overrun, is where you get the backfire and this is a sure symptom of an air leak in the exhaust system. What can be done? Well you could find the modern equivalent of asbestos tape and bind around the tubes, or renew them. I have had success in the past by building up the swage by brazing and filing back until the just slide in the elbow with no slack. regards, Richard

Clive, I think it may well have been 'Richard A' who I supplied with a drawing of the sleeve, he had an early Pig on the road many years ago.

The length of the tool is 6.5 inches. It may well have been I who gave Clive the dimensions way back about 20 years ago, I know I gave the drawing to a Pig owner. Outside of the sleeve should be polished so as not to damage the seal in the hub. Wayne, you will not be able to use normal tube stock as the differential between OD and ID is too great, hence turning it out of round bar.

I removed and refitted a C8GS engine for the late owner of the infamous "Bertha", using a 500kg hydraulic engine crane, if this is of any help to you.

Going by that address, it may well be the successor to Dowty Seals. Many years ago, possibly 17, I tried to obtain output seals for a CVR(T) gearbox and knew that Dowty made them as their instruction leaflet and the Tewkesbury address was in the army packaging of one I had seen before. They were unable to supply as it was a specific part ordered by MoD and not a general stock item. Hope you have more luck here. These particular ones were an improved type of directional seal and colour coded for identification.

A long bodied jack will be preferable for this size vehicle as you will find the stroke of the handle will be restricted otherwise, especially when jacking up any point on rear axles.

The workshop bodies fitted to the Bedford QL ( as the example from REME Museum in your post) were not original fitments. They were transferred post-war from the Fordson WOT6, which they were on originally, as I understand it, for the Korea campaign.