Richard Farrant

Bryan, In your last photo is that an electrical cut off switch on the pump behind the lever? The spade connection does not have a wire to it. If that is what it is, it will need a feed to it to make the engine run. I have never come across a 4D (or whatever they called it later on), with one of these cut offs.

Most probably because previous service history was not available ( missing or destroyed)

I take it there is no smoke or attempt at firing? Fuel in pump could have waxed in one of the winters.

Thought you were trying to catch us out !! It is a selector strut. No idea for which vehicle. Those numbers are not necessarily the part number, but a drawing number so often do not come up in the parts list.

Not a tool, it is part of the pre-selector gearbox

....... and with a motorcycle carb the first place I would look at is the flange face where it bolts to the head, these are often overtightened and distorted. Take carb off and put a straight edge across flange bolt holes. Common source of air leak or weak running.

I once bought a ex-WD tool made by Terrys Springs, like a small g-clamp but had chisel ends on screw, end of screw had a nipple to fit grease gun to and grease came out of a hole in the "chisel" end.

Thanks Jon, That is interesting to know that red or blue, it is the same.

As Jon has mentioned lithium complex, I think that is the blue grease that I use for wheel bearing on vintage / classic era vehicles. Just found the first reference to using it on old vehicles; http://www.classic-oils.net/Penrite-High-Temperature-Wheel-Bearing-Grease

Hi Nic, Your points noted. In all your problems with this in last year or so, have you changed coil or condenser yet? Think that would have been my first move, but the RFC change around would have aroused suspicions as it is non-standard and could have been a possible issue. regards, Richard

Some manufacturers recommend using a smear of graphite grease between the leaves.

Nic, I have seen RFC Saracens fitted with original fans and many of them have had heat/ fuel problems. When I say heat, I mean it is being forced back past the gearbox and in the area of the fuel tank and pipes causing vapour locks. The airflow will not evacuate through the beehives easily. If you look at a conventional Saracen you will see ducts around the top rear of engine bay, these are no longer on a RFC type. All you need to do to revert to RFC is change the fans and fit the shroud back on the front of the vehicle.

I suspect the Morris could have felt hub seals, and if they are, from my experience I would not use one of the general purpose greases commonly available, you often find them too thin and oily. I prefer the old style sticky grease as this will not soak through the felt. There is a grease used on semi-trailer wheel hubs that is good for the purpose, and one I use is blue in colour. I have used it on hubs with primitive (felt) sealing and not had any problems. regards, Richard

Hi Jon, Welcome to the forum. I am a user of your oils and work just up the road from you at Appledore. regards, Richard

As Sean says, the LV3/LD part is Leyland origin and for an AFV, most likely a part for a Matilda engine. The LV stock numbering system was also used by Commonwealth countries during WW2 onwards and I now remember seeing LV7/NEU labelled parts when going through a load of assorted parts for sale in NSW last year. Those with Studebaker on them would be for the US6 6x6, of which Reo also built some and seen in Australia and I think it is these parts that I have seen marked NEU. The prefix "GB" on some parts would appear to stand for Gear Box, looking at part descriptions!

Another point worth considering is that you should use a Straight 90 gear oil in the box and not an Extreme Pressure (EP) grade. This is because the sychro is in effect a brake and EP will inhibit that action giving you crunchy gear changes. Sorry if you already know this, I am good at teaching grandmothers to suck eggs!

Terry, I am a bit out of touch with current trends on CVR(T), but did work on them from about 1980 onwards. Just wondering if the idlers are for Stormer types as I understand it has a wider track (?). As with all things in the Army, you indent for stores by stock number for vehicle concerned, so if you know the number for these idlers then it can be checked out. Ah, looks like Chris has the info, my comment is redundant!

Andy, That is a standard Vixen, turret is correct. I think the Polecat was a Fox with the Peak turret. An acquaintance in Australia has one of the prototype Vixens, will dig a photo out.

Hi Sean, I did see the LV7/NEU label and have come across it before, oddly it is not on Clive's list. I also think it means Neutral and would relate to B vehicles. In your second post I think those parts prefixed GB could well be Girling Brakes as they used that annotation.

Hi Phil, Despite trying to enlarge the photos, it is not easy to ready the labels, if you could photo some labels with all details clear, I might be able to work it out. There is one part that looks familiar, but cannot think what from at present. regards, Richard

Hi all, The latest KVE News, the official newsletter for the Corowa Swim-In is now available to download on the www.corowaswim-in.org website. Here is a direct link to it: http://media.wix.com/ugd/494429_80fd...f576cfe71c.pdf A full report on the 2015 Swim-In and other articles of interest, plus details and entry forms for 2016 Corowa Swim-In and Military Vehicle Gathering. Please read our request for entry forms to be sent in earlier, due to special circumstances next year, you will understand when you have read it! If anyone seeing this who normally has KVE News emailed to you, and has not received it, please let me know as I have a feeling it might have gone in to some recipient's trash or spam folders ........ or your email address is not working or changed. regards, Richard Farrant KVE Committee member and Editor

Sorry, far too long ago when I last used one of these, now I think about it I think the groove is for clearance from the inner bearing cage to avoid damaging it, the purpose of the sleeve is to keep the hub square to the shaft as you slide it into the inner and outer seals. Once in place, the hub is supported and held in, then tool withdrawn and outer bearing fitted. I last had a Pig hub off about 25 years ago, so making my memory work now.

Its easy to translate, just a right click, this was another website; http://www.microsofttranslator.com/BV.aspx?ref=IE8Activity&a=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ndr.de%2Fnachrichten%2Fschleswig-holstein%2FErfolgreich-Kampfpanzer-aus-Villa-geborgen%2Cmunitionsfund124.html If this is the one from the Surrey scrapyard, then the authorities have been slow to catch on that this owner was in breach of the (German) law.

I assumed you had drawing of original tool until I just saw the photo. You can copy it by all means. (Normal charges apply: 1 x slab of beer)

Hi Wayne, If the other end is identical, then the tool is not finished yet. See attached drawing that I did from an original army tool about 20 years ago. The four radial holes on right of side view are for putting rod or pin punch in to withdraw sleeve once hub is fully home. The taper is to ease the hub seal over without damaging it, the groove face of inner end of tool is to go over the inner seal to ensure no damage to it occurs.