sirhc

Time for some updates! The Scimitar is now road registered and tax exempt, which is a bonus! I spent quite a lot of time sorting out the turret hatches. I had to cut a load of the pins, press them out and replace them with new ones. The hatch dampers were a total mess, when I stripped them I found them totally rusted solid inside. One was swapped for a spare and the other was rebuilt with parts from a Spartan drivers hatch damper. I also had to free off all the turret locks. These 'simple' jobs actually took several Saturdays. To get the hatch bolts undone I ended up buying a 1m long breaker bar as the steel bolts had corroded to the aluminium hinges. Finally with the hatches on and the dampers correctly set up I spent a few days over Easter painting the outside of the turret and all the brackets etc. I then split the track and discovered some play in the rear idlers. As I had spares I swapped the idler arms for some better ones and the idlers for some NOS ones. I then painted everything and put it all back together. Starting to look good now... Next job was to install the sights and periscopes. The periscopes are all NOS and I think the sights are either NOS or refurbished too. I have the covers for the sights at the blasters at the moment. I still need to replace all the turret padding, re-wire the turret etc but to get it into a condition where it can be shown I am focusing on getting it externally complete first. Next job is to finish the external paintwork and start assembling the turret basket. I have all the basket parts and most are cleaned up and ready to fit. I am planning on taking this to W&P providing I can get the transport sorted.

When I had one I bought a complete new SWB system and it fitted no problem

Just after I posted that I saw this http://www.milweb.net/classifieds/view_large.php?ad=80837&cat=1

I think you'll find stocks of things like gearboxes and wheel stations have mostly been depleted these days. You could try Banisters or Marcus Glenn, but what they do have wont be cheap. I also think you'll be lucky to find cheap vehicles for breaking, most Ferrets have been restored now and those which need restoring (when you see them) still fetch good money.

3 pin socket is for the wiper motor on the windscreen.

You need one of these: http://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/cvrt-servicing-schedule-fv101-scorpion-1245-p.asp

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=4633&t=Cap_Distributor_417931D

I think you're referring to a ball joint separator. I would call the bit between the damper and the suspension arm the damper link arm. Chris

Jim, I've had my ferret since 2001 and despite my best efforts the front hinge has always been very stiff, it would only open with a long bar. My dad got a sample of something called corrosion block from Adams aviation. After applying a small amount over a few weeks followed by exercise with a bar the hinge is now free and opens easily. I would definitely recommend it. https://www.adamsaviation.com/en/search/partdetail.php?id=20012 http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm Chris

Andrew, Are you sure it's the gearbox? The fan bearings fail regularly leading to terrible sounding noises. The gearbox growl usually goes away when you get into 4th gear or above rather than worse. Chris

Get it running properly from a new or clean Jerry can using an adaptor for a generator to start with. Worry about the mess in the tank later, that's a big job. I've had fuel pumps which ticked but didn't pump before. Do you have a spare?

What you need is something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252301387337 You'll find all the bits on eBay too.

And there is a very quick and easy way to avoid any of this grief - use deacts. These are not covered by the Act and as long as you use them sensibly and with due care, you should have no problems. Problem being a deactivated GPMG costs a lot more than a replica.

Usually the J60s with electronic ignition have a warning sticker on the distributor. If the engine has been painted since it left service it might be missing.

Thinking about selling this, complete with M416 trailer and my box of spares. PM me if interested.

Option A is drive it, option B put it on a trailer. Don't tow it any further than you have to.

It is bolted on, no problem to remove it and there are a few Scorpions which were Sabres at one time.

I'd say your chances are good, it's much better than what I started with!

Hi Gary, I think I imported the first M151A2 from Portugal in 2010. There's a thread on here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?16221-M151A2-I-Mu(s)tt-be-mad!/page6&highlight=M151a2+mad And a video on YouTube: Chris

Weight in kg from REME recovery manual.

We had an FV432 mk2 with the K60 multi fuel engine about 10 years ago. I was able to get around 600 litres of free fuel from a garage who were being charged to get rid of it, it was mostly petrol but the 432 was quite happy.

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?52472-Hi-from-Australia

This user joined today, could be they are awaiting approval. Looking at the info they are from Australia. Chris

Hi Bjorn, Not really a very good introduction, and not a very good advert either. You don't state where it is or how much it is, and ask people to call without providing a number. Please post a proper introduction and then maybe a better advert in the adverts section. Thanks, Chris

Hi Robin, When changing the gearbox you need to adjust the shims on the centre bolt at the back to ensure its level. On the petrol engine if the mounting at the front hasn't been disturbed you shouldn't need to adjust anything when swapping engines. On the diesel the engine mounts are shimmed to ensure it is level when the vehicle was built, if swapping engines they don't need adjusting. I have a manual somewhere that says the thickness of shims should be stamped on the mount, I'll have to dig it out. My Scimitar had all the mounts removed and I had to fit some from another vehicle, I borrowed the alignment tool and had a load of shims laser cut from different thicknesses of stainless so I could set it up properly. Chris