fv1609 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Yes 8A is fine, it is not critical. It is only carrying about 3A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Thankyou, again! Did the thermal cut-outs on the Humber’s ever need replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 The most common problem was water ingress because despite being in a sealed diecast box it was in close proximity to a removable windscreen which rarely formed a watertight seal. Fault finding often challenged people because even when the circuit breaker was open due to heating or more commonly corroded contacts a voltage could be detected through the energising coil. People understandably thought that with the circuit breaker open there would be no voltage detectable at the output. Particularly if they were using a digital voltmeter, but if you use a basic tool like a prod with a bulb you find that this voltage is of no use as it is in series with the circuit breaker winding & will not illuminate the bulb. This is one of those many instances where a top of the range fancy meter is of little use & at worst gives misleading results yet a crude bulb & probe with some common sense wins out : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 I think it’s the common sense bit I’m missing! Funnily enough, my grandad bought a Humber brand new, if I remember rightly it was called a Harrier. He had to have a new bonnet because it caught fire as he pulled into the farmyard after a trip out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Humber Hawk Clive, sorry, I’ve just been corrected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Ah different sort of Humber, this was the one I sold about 5 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Point taken Clive! Very different indeed! I assume you didn’t worry too much about parking dents when you went to do the weekly shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 When you said I seemed keen to keep the landrover original Clive, this was when I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Indeed it took whatever people could throw at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 2 minutes ago, 109ffr said: When you said I seemed keen to keep the landrover original Clive, this was when I bought it. Do you know the original Army registration so you can trace its history? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 That’s not a supermarket carpark! I don’t know the army registration unfortunately, but it was sent to the Central Army Vehicle Depot, Hilton, on 31st August 1983, served in Africa so i was told, and the chap who drove it in the army bought it, stood it for around 11 years, before selling it on to a mechanic who had it for a month or so and didn’t have time to do anything with it. I then bought it, we did the welding and got it running, and that’s all I can really say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Clive, I’ve managed to get to the point today where the next step is soldering. I’ve always used a 60/40 tin lead solder, but you recommend a silver solder. I’m doubtful that my skills extend to using a torch in this case, so is there a solder I could use with the iron that would do the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david1212 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Silver solder has a significantly higher melting temperature than 60/40 tin lead. Even if you have an iron with adjustable temperature it may well not go hot enough for silver solder. For now using 60/40 tin lead would prove you have found the problem. Then for reliability source a replacement. Alternatively source a small crimp jointing tube but before joining the ends with it also slide over some small high temperature insulation sleeving. Once crimped slide this over the tube so it will not touch adjacent windings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Thankyou David1212. It is actually a modern aluminium clad resistor that is going into the filter box, which has a lug on either end to solder to, they’re like a male spade connection, and I do have some female spades that fit on. As you say, the 60/40 tin lead would prove the problem for now too. Thanks again, this has been a bit of an epic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Stevan I assume you are referring to soldering in your new metal clad resistor, in which case 60/40 is fine. Just be wary of modern solder that has no lead & is difficult to make a decent joint. Make sure you make a good mechanical joint into resistor terminal before soldering. The silver soldering was the method of enhancing the connection of the original windings to their brass terminations & not needed for what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Fantastic news. Thankyou Clive. I hope tmrw to be posting that it’s done and running. I assume that heat wise, the resistor will be at its hottest when the engine is idling, so if I leave it ticking over for 30 minutes or so, and just keep an eye on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 Yes, put a smear of heatsink compound on the base of the resistor before you mount it & it might be as well to smooth off the paint to bare metal to get best heat transfer on the area that the resistor will sit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Thankyou very much. I shall let you know the outcome, but I do have high hopes for a success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Morning Clive. Just to be sure on where to test for the 10v from the box, is it SW lead disconnected from the coil, points closed, ignition on, and test the end of the SW lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 SW on coil shouldn't go to the coil, it should go to the filter box. CB on the coil should go to distributor (as in Contact Breaker) With the points closed current will be drawn through the filter box (resistor) & the coil which is in series with it. So there will be a voltage drop across the resistor. Obviously earth the negative lead of the voltmeter & the positive on the output of the filter box ie the lead that feeds SW to the coil. Once the points open no current is drawn so the reading on your SW connection will be 24v not 10v or so. With the engine running if you have what I call a proper voltmeter rather than digital it will be about 18V ie averaging between 10V & 24V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 We’re connected up as you say Clive, sorry, my bad description. Thankyou. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Does this look ok Clive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Yes fine. What is that bit of stuff in the corner close to the vertical choke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 A cobweb Clive. I haven’t had chance to spring clean it yet. 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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