109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 This is the final result, ready to go back on the car. The nerves a kicking in now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 1 hour ago, 109ffr said: The nerves a kicking in now. The more nervous you are, the greater will be the satisfaction when it all works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Just before I try everything Clive, is this likely to cause any issues? I’m not sure when it occurred but I’m going through everything to get it spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Not meant to be a smug answer but a good example of the value of having a battery isolating switch in the earth lead of the "lower" battery. Make sure you now disconnect the negative terminal of at least the "lower" battery then file the lumpy bits off the terminal. You ought to check voltage of the both batteries under some sort of load. Just using a voltmeter is of limited value. Reconnect the batteries, put a load on by turning on the headlights and ensure you have a fairly equal reading of at least 12V on each battery individually. If the headlights are dim you will need to charge one or both batteries, depending on your voltmeter readings. As a general principle try to have a pair of batteries of identical type & age. If you don't then you'll end up with one battery never being charged fully. One battery can't get charged preferentially to the other as they are in series & both carry the same current. From time to time might be worth giving each battery an individual 12V charge to try to maintain a balance. Avoid tapping off the "lower" 12V to run a radio, lights etc as this drains one battery more than the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Thanks Clive, it’s not smug, it’s a fact. I can only think the terminal was loose at some point in its past. I didn’t know until I took the lead off to do this job. We have 9.4v exiting the filter box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Excellent news! In the article I mentioned that the expected 10V reduces to 9V after 10 mins or so. PS Would have been better to have just taken the negative lead off on the "lower" battery so if it the spanner touched any metalwork there would be no sparking/melting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 We’re up and running! Haven’t checked batteries yet Clive, but headlights are very bright. It’s running lumpy and popping at the exhaust, but when I checked the leads to the distributor, the main lead gave me a shock where it go’s into the distributor. It’s been put on a standard distributor and the end is pushed in with the rubber cap over the top as on a normal set up. This is the end though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Yes I see a wire has been pushed into cable centre & held by the hole in the cable. That hole is left over from pointed screw in the original distributor to penetrate the insulation to touch the centre conductor. If it is snug fit push it back in, but the hazards of modifications from original fit I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 Eventually I’m going to put it back to all screened. If I cut the end off Clive, and fit either a screw in HT end or a crimp on HT terminal? I’m pretty sure it’s misfiring due to that scabby lead end, and lead giving me a shock at that end...... or am I way off the mark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Trouble is once you shorten the end then when you come to fit the correct DZS4A distributor (caution there are many types) you will have to replace the whole inner cable & terminate it the other end in the connector. Yes you will get a shock & bear in mind a spark like that in air can jump about 1 cm so it shows the HT is working! Although the existing end of cable termination is not ideal the important thing is it doesn't wobble around or fall out. Even if there is a gap don't assume it will give a poorer HT output because these screw in spark enhancers are basically a pair of self-taping screws facing head to head with a gap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 I got a shock through the rubber Clive, so that’s normal for the main lead? I can’t see any sparks jumping around in the dark anyway. The engine seems pretty smooth now, just a popping here and there from the exhaust really. I’ve been driving my wife’s Volvo for a month so maybe I’m expecting too much! No heat from the resistor when idling for 10 minutes on the yard, and the coils cool too. I’ll have a run round the block tmrw and see what happens, but the batteries are on, and it’s time to trust it again. One thing I have done is cover the two terminals for the radio batteries, as I didn’t realise until I read your article that they’re live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 First time it’s moved in over a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Yes the radio batteries terminals are live when charging ie with engine running & switches it in parallel with the vehicle batteries. Not running the radio terminals are isolated. Yes I've had tingles through "insulation" on HT cable. That seems a rather long length of cable, I didn't know what arrangement you had assumed you were using the original screened cable. So I would reduce the length of cable as its weight bouncing around will tug at the connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 It is the original cable Clive, pushed into the top of a standard distributor with a rubber boot on top. I had it held with cable ties for support and need to re-fit them, same with other cables etc as I had to cut the ties off for access. Nothing is affected when I wobble it about anyway, no change in engine note or anything, and it does seem snug in the distributor. I guess the popping could be fuel related, or an exhaust leak, or it may just need a run with being stood. The headlights seem a lot brighter than they used to be, and the engine doesn’t drop in tone anymore when I put the heater on. Will this be due to the coil now being connected properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 (edited) Previous post sent twice. Edited March 14 by 109ffr Posted twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Brighter lights & running ok with the heater has nothing to directly do with the ignition system. But glad it is better than before. PS It might have a lot to do with your battery terminal being done up tighter now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 It could be psychological then! I just want to say Thankyou Clive for all the time you’ve put into this to help me with something I had hardly any understanding of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 See my PS You are now well placed to help out some poor soul who has the same problem. Most of us only are only knowledgeable as the result of things going wrong & having to sort it out. Being now elderly I have had ample time to pick on all these problems! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 I’ve just looked at your PS Clive, and as sarcastic as it is, you may well be right! 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Hmm it wasn't meant to be taken sarcastically, I'm surprised you think that. It was intended as a polite suggestion of what may have taken place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 It certainly would make sense! Especially as the landrover is used on the field a lot. I have just had one thought, the slight rough running, could the timing now be out a touch with the coil now being connected the correct way round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109ffr Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Got to the bottom of the spluttering. All plugs have a good spark, carbs set up nicely, timing was out by a few degrees, runs perfectly now. Thanks to all, and again, a special thanks to you Clive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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