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Hello all. After the fitting of the new ballast resistor to the truck, no issues at all, so I’ve been busy rebuilding the steering system, cleaning up and waxing the chassis, and just generally tidying the vehicle up. I’ve tried to keep the paint to a balance between an ex military vehicle and a working truck. I just wondered if anyone would have an opinion on whether if I went to a show with it, it would be acceptable.

Got to the bottom of the spluttering. All plugs have a good spark, carbs set up nicely, timing was out by a few degrees, runs perfectly now. Thanks to all, and again, a special thanks to you Clive.

It certainly would make sense! Especially as the landrover is used on the field a lot. I have just had one thought, the slight rough running, could the timing now be out a touch with the coil now being connected the correct way round?

I’ve just looked at your PS Clive, and as sarcastic as it is, you may well be right! 😂

It could be psychological then! I just want to say Thankyou Clive for all the time you’ve put into this to help me with something I had hardly any understanding of.

Previous post sent twice.

It is the original cable Clive, pushed into the top of a standard distributor with a rubber boot on top. I had it held with cable ties for support and need to re-fit them, same with other cables etc as I had to cut the ties off for access. Nothing is affected when I wobble it about anyway, no change in engine note or anything, and it does seem snug in the distributor. I guess the popping could be fuel related, or an exhaust leak, or it may just need a run with being stood. The headlights seem a lot brighter than they used to be, and the engine doesn’t drop in tone anymore when I put the heater on. Will this be due to the coil now being connected properly?

First time it’s moved in over a month.

I got a shock through the rubber Clive, so that’s normal for the main lead? I can’t see any sparks jumping around in the dark anyway. The engine seems pretty smooth now, just a popping here and there from the exhaust really. I’ve been driving my wife’s Volvo for a month so maybe I’m expecting too much! No heat from the resistor when idling for 10 minutes on the yard, and the coils cool too. I’ll have a run round the block tmrw and see what happens, but the batteries are on, and it’s time to trust it again. One thing I have done is cover the two terminals for the radio batteries, as I didn’t realise until I read your article that they’re live.

Eventually I’m going to put it back to all screened. If I cut the end off Clive, and fit either a screw in HT end or a crimp on HT terminal? I’m pretty sure it’s misfiring due to that scabby lead end, and lead giving me a shock at that end...... or am I way off the mark?

We’re up and running! Haven’t checked batteries yet Clive, but headlights are very bright. It’s running lumpy and popping at the exhaust, but when I checked the leads to the distributor, the main lead gave me a shock where it go’s into the distributor. It’s been put on a standard distributor and the end is pushed in with the rubber cap over the top as on a normal set up. This is the end though.

Thanks Clive, it’s not smug, it’s a fact. I can only think the terminal was loose at some point in its past. I didn’t know until I took the lead off to do this job. We have 9.4v exiting the filter box!

Just before I try everything Clive, is this likely to cause any issues? I’m not sure when it occurred but I’m going through everything to get it spot on.

This is the final result, ready to go back on the car. The nerves a kicking in now.

I think that’s as much as I can do Clive.

I shall be very gentle doing that then Clive, it looks like performing brain surgery!

I really do have to thank people on the forum, and a very special thanks to Clive for all his help and locating a resistor. Opening a piece of history like that and using it really does feel wrong. In terms of re-winding the old resistor, my uncle knows a chap who makes pick-ups for guitars, and the chap says if he can find the correct gauge wire, it may be possible. As a spare, it would at least mean the filter box might have a bright future. Thankyou for your reply, it means a lot.

The filter box re-wired with the old resistor fitted. The new resistor has arrived. Shame to take it out of the packet really.

Brilliant Clive! Thankyou so much! I’ll get it bought!

Neither is a good choice! Thanks again for your help, and I’ll update when I’ve tested the filter box output!

Is that why my dad would never let us have the ignition on to listen to the car radio when I was a kid then? He always said it’d burn the ignition out.

I’ll go with the top off the box option Clive. If I understand correctly then, I test the coil lead SW inside the box with the red probe, and the black probe onto the nearest lump of metal, with the points closed, and the ignition on?

Right, I measured the voltage on the disconnected end of the SW lead as per the picture, with closed points at 24.5v. That was obviously mistake number one. Then with everything connected up, points closed, I measured 0.14V at the points, which was when the resistor heated up. That was obviously mistake number two. But from what you’ve said, the readings so far would be what you’d expect from my cockeyed way of doing them? So.... do I need to have everything connected up as it should be, points closed, ignition on and test inside the filter box? If so, where is the test point I need to test? Thankyou for your help!

The resistance of the primary is showing at 2.5 Clive. I had to use two lengths of 8amp wire to reach the terminals, which showed 1.3 when I put the wires together, I subtracted the 1.3 to get 2.5.

Hi Clive, the resistor is a wirewound aluminium clad hs50w5r6f. I’ve attached a photo of the label from the coil, and the coil stamping matches the label. The coil is brand new, and the car hasn’t been started with it on. I swapped it in case the coil was the problem. I’ve only got one of the Hilka digital multimeters Clive. I’m on a big learning curve here, so will need to do a bit of reading on how to take the measurements you’ve asked about. The fun continues!