Rick W Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Tried to fire up the Morris today with not much success. The story so far.... The dynamo has been changed and put back in exactly the same place. Fitted an electic pump to temporarily bypass mechanical one, we have fuel up to the carb. Advanced and retarded the dizzy. Wiring has been checked and double checked, as has the firing order. The air filter and attaching hose has not been fitted yet could this be the cause? Is the mixture too fuel rich without that on? Engine turning over fine, just not starting? :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Rick, When you removed the dynamo, the drive sprocket is driven by the timing chain. Is it possible that the timing has slipped, ie., chain jumped the sprockets on the crank or cam? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 1 go to car shop 2 invest £2 in a spark gap. It fits on top of plug and you can see spark without getting bitten. 3 Get a multimeter and go through ignition circuit every joint checking for 12 volts. Make sure the coil is well earthed. Pour a bottle capful of petrol straight into top of carb. If spark is working properly she will kick. The electric pump could be overfeeding the carb causing flooding. do you have pump or autovac on the beast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 Hello Richard, I cant see how the timing would have slipped like that, but saying that it was pushed in and out of the workshop a few times without the dynamo in- will check that. Its mechanical pump Tony, and yes the leccy pump does overfeed the carb a bit. Will try these tomorrow, its one of those blindingly obvious things that we will kick ourselves for Im sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Forget the eledtric pump, use the mechanical, you did prime the pump did you? Either by a hand lever on the pump itself or pour the petrol into carb and kick it over. you can use easy start very sparingly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Hello Richard, I cant see how the timing would have slipped like that, but saying that it was pushed in and out of the workshop a few times without the dynamo in- will check that. Rick, The special tool used to push the dynamo shaft out of the sprocket, is lso used to secure the sprocket firmly in position whilst the dynamo is not fitted. If this was not done it is possible for the chain to have slipped. Try checking the valve timing, general rule of thumb, the inlet and exhaust valve on the rock at TDC. You might be able to get a thin rod or stiff wire through the spark plug hole to feel the positon of piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Rick, The special tool used to push the dynamo shaft out of the sprocket, is lso used to secure the sprocket firmly in position whilst the dynamo is not fitted. If this was not done it is possible for the chain to have slipped. Try checking the valve timing, general rule of thumb, the inlet and exhaust valve on the rock at TDC. You might be able to get a thin rod or stiff wire through the spark plug hole to feel the positon of piston. Mini Maglites do a fibre optic bit thats fits over the end. Proper job for perring into pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 Rick, You saw engine turning over, is it fireing ?? but won't start ?? Could well be PARTIALY due to lackof any air filter, ect, although I'd still have expected it to fire upatthe very least, even without it,.........it would then pop and bang, though. :whistle: My Bedford had the same fun,( :roll:), would turn over, etc, pretty well everything was changed, except PLUGS,.......which looked new, and were still shiney etc. After being towed around yard where I store it, without any luck,..........in desperation, and after a suggestion by L/rover fitter friend a spare long reach plug was loosely wound half way in, cap on,...........pulled the starter, ...........BINGO !! Trip to local spark plug emporium for 6 of their finest,..................jobs a good un. :-D Worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Hi Rick, Three bits of info from the book of words, 1. Firing order is 1 3 4 2, the timing should be such that the contacts break when the crankshaft is 3/8" past T D C prior to each firing stroke. On the cylinder head is a small plug over no.4 cylinder down which can be lowered a metal rod at least 10" long. If you mark the rod it's possible to find T D C . 2. Set the engine to no.1 cylinder firing position. take off the clutch housing inspection cover so that the rim of the flywheel can be seen. Take out the plugs and remove the tappet chamber cover plates so the valve action may be observed. Turn the engine slowly until following the closing of no.1 cylinder inlet valve the T D C mark on the flywheel passes the centre line of the clutch clutch housing aperture by 3/8"; in other words the the ignition setting is 3/8" past T D C. 3. The timing chain is 80 pitches long and has bright links 21 pitches apart the bright pitches fit on the marked teeth of the two sprockets on the engine. Obviously not the dynamo sprocket. :rtfm: Hope this helps. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Rick ,you said you had worked on the distributor. So Have you put it in the right way? Are the points set up correctly and lastly, is the centre contact for the Dizzy cap A) still there B) Going down enough to reach the rotor arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goanna Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Rick First , try to confirm the spark is there at the coil : remove the centre HT lead from the dissy and rest the end of the lead about 1/4" from a earthed spot eg. the engine block . Take the dissy cap off , turn the ignition on and manually open/close the points , you should see a healthy spark from the HT lead to earth. If you get a good spark at the centre HT lead , then thats a start . Put the dissy cap back on and put the centre HT lead back in . Remove the plugs and mark each lead with a bit of tape 1,3,4,2. Locate the HT lead from No.1 plug and rest the end near a earth . Find the ignition mark on the flywheel and mark it with white chalk . Switch on the ignition again . Turn the engine over with a hand crank until the inlet valve on NO. 1 closes and watch for a spark from the No.1 HT lead to earth as the ignition mark goes past . You can keep going round again on the hand crank to watch for a spark at No.1 lead . It helps to have two people on hand . You can use a timing light also. Some of the timing lights are in series with the plug and you can watch for a flash as the spark happens . Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Thank you all for your help, as always a fountain of wisdom. Well weve taken on board all your suggestions and tried them all out, still trying to start and ran with a quick squirt of easy start, so we knew the timing was ok.Finally just kicked into life and ran with a little smoke coming out of the exhaust! Problem seems to have been fuel, too much with the electric pump and slighlty fuel starved with the oe mechanical pump. Used a gadget called a "mityvac" which creates a vacuum in the fuel line to drag the fuel up yo the carb, so eliminating any air pockets. Marvelous bit of kit! :-D Have taken a short video of it to post on HMVTV if I can work it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Sod's law when they are totally dry, the fuel line can airlock. Before you dump the pump get her started and idle her up till she is good and warm. Check around for all the usual nasties.Switch off wait a couple of minutes, check oil and water. Let her cool completly, check oil and water again then she should start straight away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Glad you got her to 'clear her throat', Rick. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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