N.O.S. Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 I've got a big old engine to free up - seized through standing, probably just rust in bores. A friend keeps telling me that the best stuff is a can of Coca Cola down each bore, swears he got this from a reliable source. Must say I am very sceptical, mainly because it is water based. On the other hand, considering what it does to your insides, it sounds so bizarre it might just be true. :dunno: Is this a CURE-ALL, or a DISASTER COCKTAIL - what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Have a read here http://www.hmvf.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=38&topic=3502.msg30483#msg30483 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 Thanks Lee, sounds like it is o.k. for a quickie job, think I'll go the "be patient" diesel route for this one. p.s. have just ordered the Ware Red Ball book - good call! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Tony, I would have the head off first to see how bad the corrosion is, if not too bad then diesel is good as it has a searching action and is a lubricant. I have had gudgeon pins siezed / rusted, which does not help either. With the head off and a lump of hard wood, you can thump the pistons alternatively to rock it back and forth slightly to break any rust bond on the rings. It may be too badly siexed, like an Austin K2 engine I rebuilt a while back, now that one, I had to take the crank out and really force the pistons down, that one was so bad it definitely needed reboring. Coke contains a mild dose of phosphoric acid, we used to have large tanks of this acid to clean engine components on the overhaul line, it eats any thing like alloy though. Thinking of it, Coke comes in alloy cans so the acid strength must be quite a bit mild :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Yes the acid strength is quite mild in COKE, but I would not leave it in there too long as it will eventually eat away at anything soft etc. I know as I work for them and it eats the machinery at work. :-D But PLEASE buy loads and kep me in gainful employment ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Mark, yes, totally agree. Drink lots of Coke, especially the new calorie free version sweetened with Rebiana rather than aspartimane. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spood Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 There is a vintage car that does the local show circuit that had its engine sitting in a vat of diesel for seven years to free it up :schocked:. It is something like a seven litre four cylinder beast and you can see huge flywheel, it's something approaching three feet across, underneath the car. I think it is American in origin and it sounds awesome but what the make is eludes me at the moment :dunno: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I would recommend taking the head off and cleaning out the worst of the rust by with a rotary wire brush first (if possible). Coke seemed to loosen up the worst of it, but after a couple of days I filled the bores with diesel and that seemed to do the job. I managed to turn the crank just a fraction, then the after a couple of days i got some more crank movement. I then flipped the block on its side, removed the big end caps and tapped the pistons in an out in out small ammounts, until they came through the top of the block. It helped that when each piston had moved down slightly, I used a glaze buster and hone tool to clean the bore to ease the upward journey of the piston. I took a bout 3 weeks of a little movment at a time to remove all 6 pistons. I am guessing that your engine is large and American? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 Well, the bores are very large, but is a McLaren 2 cylinder 44hp 1940's diesel. It was running until 20 years ago when parked up. Lots of moisture down exhaust but not a lot of water. Followed Lee's link to the last thread on it - looks like my pal Brian was right after all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 One simple trick for seized engines. Take a large pan of engine oil, heat gently till it starts to go rainbowy coloured and pour into bores. Diesel works better if you mix with paraffin. Used to use this on outboards that had sunk in the sea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Daymond Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 when I worked at the museum, we used diesel and time. If we thought the engine was bad we'd take the heads off, as mentioned prior, then pour in diesel and leave, everyday trying to turn the crank with slight pressure. Usually a couple of days did the trick, when the pistons moved, we always seemed to find a ridge of rust where the pistons had been resting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I've been trying to unstick a J60 for the past 2 weeks. I've tried coke, hot oil, diesel, WD40, heat, time, a large hammer and block of wood. So far I have got 3 pistons out (2 came out easily) by removing the head & sump and knocking them out through the top. The other 3 won't budge and it's really starting to annoy me know. It's sat full of diesel at the moment. Any suggestions, or should I just leave it even longer? Incidently the engine looks very good, little wear and the 3 pistons we got out looked almost new. The engine has been drained of oil and has sat a long time, otherwise I think it may have been ok! :shake: Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I've been trying to unstick a J60 for the past 2 weeks. I've tried coke, hot oil, diesel, WD40, heat, time, a large hammer and block of wood. So far I have got 3 pistons out (2 came out easily) by removing the head & sump and knocking them out through the top. The other 3 won't budge and it's really starting to annoy me know. It's sat full of diesel at the moment. Any suggestions, or should I just leave it even longer? Incidently the engine looks very good, little wear and the 3 pistons we got out looked almost new. The engine has been drained of oil and has sat a long time, otherwise I think it may have been ok! :shake: Chris Chris, get hold of a 400,000 btu's roofing torch & try heating the block so it expands... http://www.flameengineering.com/Assets/roofing_images/RT-2.5-20-C.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Keep persevering Chris, they come out eventually. The ones i did took ages to get all the pistons out, and i only bent one con rod doing it...... that block was scrap anyway. The second one was a re-usable. Only four more to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Chris, get hold of a 400,000 btu's roofing torch & try heating the block so it expands... I wonder if heating the block you would cause any distortion problems with the block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 A very useful tool is an ultrasonic probe. Pour in un- gooing mix of choice and vibrate at 20,000Hz. Failing this if you have an air rattle gun stick a lump of wood in an old socket and place on the piston, shake the damn thing loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I wonder if heating the block you would cause any distortion problems with the block Wouldn't of thought it was any different to heating prior to pressing in new liners :dunno: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Um, would need very careful application of heat to prevent hot spots. Cast iron can very fragile. At least now you can get a relatively cheap stand off infra red thermometer to check if the heating is uniform. I know Maplins sell them for about £35, can be very useful for checking circulation in radators etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I guess I'll keep trying then! I need this engine to be a good one, I started pulling apart the other spare engine I had and found 2 pistons which had totally burnt through! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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