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Ferret turret lid hinge seized, how to free it?


jim fl4

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Hi All, Got seized hinges on my ferret, not just the top hatch but every hinge!!! Today I had a go at warming the hinge up on the top. After 15 mins with the torch the hinges freed up fairly well and I tried to ger oil in, hoping capillary action might help. Unfortunately as the hinges cooled they stiffened up and are now nearly as bad as before I started. I think the answer might be to heat the thing up again and try to knock the hinge pin out, (towards the periscope). What would the experts on here think?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jim

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Jim I once had a Pig with most hatches seized. I needed heat, lubrication & fine oil, as you noticed as it cools then the tightness returns. I found that I had to keep moving the hatch back & forth as it cooled for a good many minutes each time trying to extend the arc of movement. I didn't need to remove hinge pins, just lots of waggle back & forth until it became co-operative, this can be quite tiring.

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Jim,

 

I've had my ferret since 2001 and despite my best efforts the front hinge has always been very stiff, it would only open with a long bar. My dad got a sample of something called corrosion block from Adams aviation. After applying a small amount over a few weeks followed by exercise with a bar the hinge is now free and opens easily. I would definitely recommend it.

 

https://www.adamsaviation.com/en/search/partdetail.php?id=20012

 

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm

 

Chris

Edited by sirhc
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Hi,

 

A big thank you to all those who replied. Some good ideas and thoughts :).

 

Patience not being my strong point, a little while after posting the question I returned to the workshop and now I'm back in and can report we have two pins on the floor...cooling down! Not too bad a job, heated one hinge and knocked the pin towards the periscope until it cleared the 'welded to turret part', then the same with the other. Then lifted the lid clear and heated the hinges again and, whilst resting on an anvil knocked the hinges completely out. Yippee :-):-):-). While the lid is off, will free the equally seized latch and sliding bolt....great fun:shocked:.

 

Does anyone know if the hinges for the engine covers are held in with roll pins? They too are seized, infact one has snapped off and I expect the others are not far behind!

 

Thanks again

 

Jim

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Hi,

 

A big thank you to all those who replied. Some good ideas and thoughts :).

 

Patience not being my strong point, a little while after posting the question I returned to the workshop and now I'm back in and can report we have two pins on the floor...cooling down! Not too bad a job, heated one hinge and knocked the pin towards the periscope until it cleared the 'welded to turret part', then the same with the other. Then lifted the lid clear and heated the hinges again and, whilst resting on an anvil knocked the hinges completely out. Yippee :-):-):-). While the lid is off, will free the equally seized latch and sliding bolt....great fun:shocked:.

 

Does anyone know if the hinges for the engine covers are held in with roll pins? They too are seized, infact one has snapped off and I expect the others are not far behind!

 

Thanks again

 

Jim

When I got my Ferret all my hinges were frozen too....The front hatch I could barely move with a 6 ft long pry bar...What I did was everyday I soaked them in WD40 penetrating lubricant and tried to move them...After about 25 days or so doing this I switched to PB Blaster (much better) penetrating lubricant and was finally able to move them then sprayed again for days always moving them back and forth with the pry bar working the lubricant in...Go to your auto/truck parts store and talk with them about the latest and best penetrant to use...There are always new products coming out on the market and I try them..Good luck to you.

Joe in USA

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When I got my Ferret all my hinges were frozen too....The front hatch I could barely move with a 6 ft long pry bar...What I did was everyday I soaked them in WD40 penetrating lubricant and tried to move them...After about 25 days or so doing this I switched to PB Blaster (much better) penetrating lubricant and was finally able to move them then sprayed again for days always moving them back and forth with the pry bar working the lubricant in...Go to your auto/truck parts store and talk with them about the latest and best penetrant to use...There are always new products coming out on the market and I try them..Good luck to you.

Joe in USA

Hi Joe, Thanks for your message. Sounds good stuff you used. As you know in the end I knocked the pins out. Todays update is that there are little pins which were located to stop the mains from ever coming loose. They are solid pins, not roll pins. For the moment I've just put some split pins in. That's one job done, next is the engine bay hinges :D.

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