woa2 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I am considering buying a Land Rover Discovery to pull my Ford WOA2 on a trailer to go to shows (WOA2 weighs 1.5 tons and a trailer half a ton). The Disco also needs to be used as a normal car, mainly urban use in Berkshire and Motorway use to visit relatives in Kent. I know nothing about Discos and hope someone on here might help with information as to which model to look for. Manual or Auto box, Diesel or Petrol?? I was looking to pay about £5-8K so what age am I looking for and what faults are common to look out for? Many thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 First of all make sure it has a full service history. Your budget should buy you a Disco 2 either in TD5 diesel or V8 petrol. The drawback to the V8 is fuel consumption other wise the engine is normally trouble free. If it's a TD5 check for any signs of overheating . The other main thing with the TD5 is that oil can run down the injector harness to the ECU, however this is not the end of the world as the harness is easily replaceable and contrary to what some people will tell you it does not ruin the ECU, simply wash it with electrical cleaner. Buy the highest spec model you can find, go for a seven seater and the air suspension is handy as you can lower the rear end with a remote fob to connect trailers. I think auto or manual is a personal choice but check for any undue noise and drive the vehicle in both low and high box and check that the 3rd diff lock is working correctly. Because a lot of these vehicles have been used as Chelsea tractors I have known a number of them to have either or both the low range and diff lock positions on the transfer box lever to be seized. I will PM you with my phone no's and we can have a chat and I will answer any questions you may have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utt61 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Most Disco2's do not have a centre diff lock - some have the internals but no operating linkage, and some have no internals either (those built around 2002 do not have the innards). The reasoning behind this was that the traction control was supposedly so marvellous that the CDL was unnecessary, whereas in practice it can be useful. It is not difficult to retrofit the CDL from a Defender transfer box, and aftermarket linkages are available. If you find one with a genuine factory fitted CDL you have found an exceptionally rare thing! Other things to watch for on the DIsco2:- Water ingress - the sunroofs are prone to leaking when old, which though not difficult to fix is a PITA. Air suspension - very prone to deflation, however the rear airbags are easy to replace ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) system - if the hydrualic pipes are rusty they will eventually leak. Replacing them is expensive and a major PITA. When working the system is excellent, but it is possible to remove completely and fit non-ACE ARBs for about £250. DMF - The TD5 engine is a great unit but it does have a dual mass flywheel which invariably needs changing whenever the clutch needs ernewing. As noted above the oil-in-the-harness problem is easily (and permanently) solvable, and not usually expensive. Overall the Disco2 is a superb vehicle; I have long maintained that it is possibly the best general-purpose 4x4 ever to be mass-produced. Your budget may also run to a Disco 3, but this is a whole different bakk-game in terms of complexity and expense when it starts to go wrong. Personally I'd sooner buy an excellent Disco2 than a ropey Disco3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Johns Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Rust can be another issue, the rear floor is very prone, rear wheel arches, mot failure as they hold seat belt mounts, its a steel body, check the rear chassis, seen a few late ones that probably have launched boats and been in water causing serious rusting of the back chassis, body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utt61 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Disco 2 doesn't seem to suffer as badly from the rusty rear floor as the original Disco (which was something of a disaster in this respect). Some other common problems with D2 which I forgot to mention above are:- - Headlining - like most vehicles of this era the foam layer in the headlining breaks down with age and the fabric sags. It can be sorted but unless you DIY it isn't cheap. - Fuel pipes - the fuel system on the Td5 is complex and it is common for the HP pipe from the pump in the tank to chafe just above the tank. Fiddly to repair but not a huge problem. - Fuel pressure regulator - this pesky little blighter is on the rear RHS of the head and is prone to leak. Not difficult nor expensive to repair but very fiddly. - Injector seals - prone to leak diesel into the lubricant on higher mileage engines. Not too difficult to renew, but when buying check to see if the dipstick smells of diesel fuel - it doesn't make a good lubricant! - Front window regulators - there's a spotweld on the lift mechanism which is prone to fail leaving the window fully open (happens more often in rain for some reason). Easy repair with s/h parts. I have run a D2 for 12 years and over 200,000 miles so have experienced most/all of the above. It doesn't alter the fact it is a great car. As with any LR, choose one with a good chassis though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'd go for a Disco 200tdi or 300tdi. The TD5 is a complete Rat's a** spares are three times as expensive, working on anything on them is a nightmare! You can get a decent 200/300 for under a £1000 and then spend a bit more to get it up to 'new' standard and still have pennies in the pocket. Watch out for rust under the back floor and inner wings, both bits are available as pattern cheap enough. The 300 is easier to work on for cam belts etc, but the 200 has lower end grunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Tony, you have been listening to too many silly stories from people who have no experience of TD5's. I would agree with you as regards 200 and 300 TDi's being good reliable engines but you don't even have to worry about cam belts with a TD5 as they use a timing chain. The disadvantage to the TD5 is a lack of low end torque which is easily overcome by use of the transfer box. I could give you chapter and verse on this but in short it was a ll to do with BMW's short lived ownership of Land Rover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 The centre diff lock was fitted in the transfer box of all Disco2's (although not fitted with the lever linkage unless specified) until sometime during 2002 when it was completely deleted. After an outcry it was reinstated in late 2003 as a factory option. Ashcroft supply conversions to sort out this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Tony, you have been listening to too many silly stories from people who have no experience of TD5's. I would agree with you as regards 200 and 300 TDi's being good reliable engines but you don't even have to worry about cam belts with a TD5 as they use a timing chain. The disadvantage to the TD5 is a lack of low end torque which is easily overcome by use of the transfer box. I could give you chapter and verse on this but in short it was a ll to do with BMW's short lived ownership of Land Rover. Personal experience mate! :-D Yes no cam belt, but having worked on Number One Son's TD5 I'm sticking with the 300. Though to be honest for pure work I'd rather have the grunt of the 200. Unfortunatley the old 200 started to rust around the roof line, and the 300 was the more economic bet. My lottery win is going to be a Classic Range Rover with Isuzu engine and the running gear tuned up by Giggle pin! :-D Though both the 200 and 300 Disco can be breathed on, leave the plug off the EGR and twitch the pump, makes a lot of diffrence. My 300 did 480 miles the other week up to North London , down to Ashford, over the France around Calais Du Nord, then back. Used about £70 in Disiel. Comfortable to srive cruised happily at 65 /70 mph,. Complete cam belt set for them about £90, change as matter of course . Incdently have you tried the FORD engined 110? My advice DON'T!!!! So many pipes and wires you can't even see the Bl**dy engine! :nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I've driven thousands of miles in all of them, the only ones I haven't worked on are the Ford engined Defenders. Can't understand why you'd want a rusty old Classic Range Rover with an engine that came out of the Ark when if you won the lottery you could have a brand new Range Rover with a V8 diesel or petrol:confused: Sorry Robert, as he so often does Tony has led us way off topic here. I won't say anymore on this subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Comber Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Alternatively, why join the bonnet up club:cry:, save a few more pounds and get a Landcruiser Amazon , a different league of vehicle.:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 One bug bear of the manual Disco. The clutch relase fork. It is a pressed metal piece with a cup that the ball end of the push rod from the slave fits into. Its held by a plastic clip which can breack. That normally dosen't present a problem whilst the system is assembled. But the ball head can push right through the fork, with no warning. There is a refornced version available from Britpart. The auto diseil can suffer from turbo lag, but twitch the injector pump and that disappears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 - Front window regulators - there's a spotweld on the lift mechanism which is prone to fail leaving the window fully open (happens more often in rain for some reason). Our late friend James told us it happened to him. He was returning from a trip to us in the Netheralands and had some spare time in Calais to look around. Unfortunately his window couldn't go up either so he had to stay with the car. I think he also said it rained also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I don't think the Disco suffers from window lift failure any more often than other manufacturer's vehicles, I have changed them on many different models but have never had one with a weld failure,they have all been due to cable breakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 The one problem I've had with a window is the channel that holds the bottom of the glass. Can rust and drop of rasing mech. The top part of the windows frame is removable, but I was able to rplace it easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utt61 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I don't think the Disco suffers from window lift failure any more often than other manufacturer's vehicles, I have changed them on many different models but have never had one with a weld failure,they have all been due to cable breakage. No cables on a Disco 2, it's done with a sort of scissor lift. The motor drives a toothed quadrant which is feebly spot welded to the mechanism. I have had 2 fail in 12 years. You can usually fish the glass out with a ruler and duct tape, then lift it manually and duct tape it shut. Bush engineering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 No cables on a Disco 2, it's done with a sort of scissor lift. The motor drives a toothed quadrant which is feebly spot welded to the mechanism. I have had 2 fail in 12 years. You can usually fish the glass out with a ruler and duct tape, then lift it manually and duct tape it shut. Bush engineering! You are absolutely correct, I must have had one of my senior moments and confused it with the Freelander:blush: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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