GPW Rookie Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Good Evening Gentleman, I've been having problems with my WOTY2 and removed and charged the batteries of which there are 2 side by side. You've probably already guessed that I neglected to write down which terminals were positive and which negative! There are 2, 6 Volt batteries side by side, as you look from the drivers seat it goes Negative to the first battery, Positive to Negative on the batteries, and Positive to finish. I'm sure this is the right way but when I press the ignition it just makes a clicking sound. Perhaps I have connected the batteries incorrectly? Or perhaps the faliure to turn over is another problem, starter motor perhaps? Can any other WOT owners help out with my schoolboy error? Glen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Sure the batteries are charged and have no dud cells. Sounds like you have refitted correctly. Try switching head lights on see if bright. Then try starting if they go very dim or out i would go for a dead cell in one of batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPW Rookie Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 That's possible but I charged both batteries, although one never showed itself as fully charged on the battery charger even though I had it on charge for 8 days! The other one lit the "charged" bulb on the charger after 2 days. I bought a multi meter and one battery shows 6.35v the other 6.28v so I don't know what to think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 That's possible but I charged both batteries, although one never showed itself as fully charged on the battery charger even though I had it on charge for 8 days! The other one lit the "charged" bulb on the charger after 2 days. I bought a multi meter and one battery shows 6.35v the other 6.28v so I don't know what to think! If you have access to a good 12v car battery, try that, it is not neccesary to use two 6v batts. We had a WOT that started well on a diesel car battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Are you checking the voltage with the battery charger disconnected? The connections you've described sound right (the link between the batteries should definitely be + on one battery to - on the other). If all you hear is a click it could be the solenoid, so that might be worth a look (I haven't found it on my WOT yet though, so don't ask me where to look When you've found it you can try bypassing it to see if the starter motor spins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Six volt batteries can be a real pain in every part to charge. Mine wouldn't charge on the mains so I lost my temper stuck it on the vehicle jumped with twelve volts and left the engine running. Charged up perfectley and holds charge. I am assuming you know if the vehicle is positive or negative earth. So as suggested just either use a single 12 volt, or jump start and leave the vehicle running Whilst it is running check voltages with multimeter. A Dynamo should give about 13.2 to 13.6 volts. DON'T try reading amps, most multi meters won't cope with the ampage and will melt (Literally) . Clicking solinoids can mean a flat batery, OR one of the connections to the battery terminals is loose or dirty. Check all the battery leads are tight, including the connection from battery to starter motor. If that is dirty or loose, won't go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woa2 Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 A click from the solenoid means at least it is trying to work, so I think that is OK. When I had solenoid problems on my WOA2 last year, it didn't make any noise at all. Check the leads to the chassis, starter and solenoid, BUT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST. Also, as suggested, try another battery - my WOT2 is running on a 12v battery at the moment. Are you sure the starter is OK? It could be worth getting this checked out to at least eliminate the problem. I did get problems with a starter once, and the problem you describe sounds similar. There should be a connection from the chassis to the engine. It this OK? Another thing to check - have you got the Negative battery terminal connected to the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big ray Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 After checking all of the connections are good and clean, if it still only clicks, put jump leads on from a good 12 volt battery and try again, if no different its its very likely to be starter problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPW Rookie Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Thanks for all the help guys much appreciated, the answer was very simple. I cleaned the battery terminals which had a small amount of corrosion on the bottom so it wasn't obvious. Also the modern negative battery lead was very tight and sat higher than the terminal it was connected to. A piece of 4" by 2" and a couple of whacks with the hammer and she fired up at the second time of asking, problem solved. However this now brings me back to the original problem which I touched on in a previous thread. The engine gets incredibly hot very quickly so much so that the petrol evaporates, causes a vapour lock and the engine cuts out. It is then next to impossible to start, the only way to cure it seems to be to put some petrol directly into the carb. I have acted on previous advice from forum members, the Condensor had been replaced, and I've replaced the Coil and Plugs as it's been suggested that both could be breaking down due to the heat the engine generates. I've been told that Flathead V8's do run hot but the heat the engine generates is exceptional. Has anybody else had this problem? Or does anybody have any suggestions? Perhaps a petrol pump? But is the heat issue a common problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 As far as ignition goes, give Frank Jolley a ring. http://www.classicheads.com/ Gassing is normally down to routing the fuel pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woa2 Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I've been told that Flathead V8's do run hot but the heat the engine generates is exceptional. Has anybody else had this problem? Or does anybody have any suggestions? Perhaps a petrol pump? But is the heat issue a common problem? Ford V8s do run hot and the WOT2 especially- it is a very common problem. I have never had the fuel vapourising problem, but I always keep an eye on the temperature gauge when driving. Keep the speed down to 45 at max and if you start going over 180F then find an excuse to stop for a while. Is your radiator OK? it could be worth getting it re-cored as my WOA2 car doesn't overheat much and this has had a re-cored radiator fitted - I must get the WOT2 done soon. If you want proof that a WOT2 runs hot, I found a photo of a WOT2 during wartime in December, where everyone is wearing greatcoats to keep warm and the WOT2 still didn't have the door tops fitted. Also, very early WOT2 trucks had a prop to keep the bonnet open slightly to allow cold air in, and there are photos of WOT2s in the desert with this happening. The radiator on a WOT2 is non-pressurised. Do NOT be tempted to get the water system pressurised as the metal will not stand the pressure and will buckle and leak. I was advised this by the Early Ford V8 club. I will be at W&P from Sunday with my Ford WOA2. Stop by and have a chat about WOT2s and V8s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPW Rookie Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 The radiator was re-cored before I got the WOT, as for keeping the speed down apart from a 10 mile run to the barn I've never driven it , it overheated on Sunday just with my manouevering it around the barn to better store it! I'll be sure to find you at W&P, many thanks for your help so far. Glen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 The radiator was re-cored before I got the WOT, as for keeping the speed down apart from a 10 mile run to the barn I've never driven it , it overheated on Sunday just with my manouevering it around the barn to better store it! I'll be sure to find you at W&P, many thanks for your help so far. Glen. A possibility ............ I have known people have rads recored and the core is of insuffient capacity, less tubes in other words. the look OK at a casual glance, but often you notice the difference in weight.This will obviously have a huge effect on the ability to cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I have to say the WOT does run hot - hotter than the CMP does, and that's with a similar but larger engine (ford mercury V8). I've got a new coil through but as yet haven't fitted it. A previous owner has (I assume) moved the coil out of the engine bay to the passenger footwell, which may be to help protect it from the heat. My water temperature gauge appears to be a bit iffy, so I may take it out and get it repaired so I can keep an eye on things. If they are that finicky about radiators I may get that re-cored as a matter of course, just so I know it's all tickety boo (I know it's a bit gunky, so the water system is at least due for a good flush). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Some body who cant find a basic dirty connection on a battery diagnosing vapour lock on an overheating engine whats going on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 another thread on here refers to to pre 60s vehicle owners been on top of the job when it comes to keeping vehicles road worthy feeling this will be my last post on here due to censureship problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 No mate! The thing is we with older vehicles NOTICE a problem then go all out to fix it rather than just ignore it. An experienced person knows the answer. How do you gain experience? By asking others questions. Thinking of Degsey with the Weasel, how about checking thermostats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Some body who cant find a basic dirty connection on a battery diagnosing vapour lock on an overheating engine whats going on here That is not very helpful is it? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I reckon, given how hot these trucks get, heat issues are top of the list that springs to mind when problems occur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) I have to say the WOT does run hot - hotter than the CMP does, and that's with a similar but larger engine (ford mercury V8). Your right Lauren the WOT does run hotter than the CMP, If I remember rightly the Canadian Ford Rad has slightly larger core than the British one. Glen, if the engine gets that hot while just manoeuvring around the yard there does seem to be a fundamental problem, you say that the rad has been re-cored? Richard makes a very sound point that some rad re-builders do not have access to the old specs and fit cores with smaller diameter cores and or less tubes. I have had a case where a CMP Chevrolet rad was supposedly re-cored but turned out to have been done to a fifties car spec and was woefully inadequate for a truck. Before you rip the rad out and start spending a lot of money try looking for some of the more obvious problems so check your static timing, check that you don't have head gasket issues and or a cracked block, check your fan belt tensions, make sure one or both of your water pumps are not defective (I once had a case on a CMP Ford where one pump had sized and the belts were loose enough to slip round without squealing, took some time to find that one :embarrassed:), was the block flushed before the new rad was fitted? if not you may have sludge/shale in either or the block or rad causing localised over heating. The bottom line is that the flat head V8 fuel pump is not positioned in the optimum position for catching the fan blast and it can on hot days after a long run cook itself sitting up on top of the engine and suffer vapour lock having said given the summer we are currently enduring you should not be having a problem. Pete Edited July 10, 2012 by Pete Ashby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPW Rookie Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 Many thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated. All that is except for "COSREC" who seems to have his own agenda! I have new fan belts to fit and will ascertain from the previous owner just how the rad was re-cored. I will also flush out the system as mush as I can to see if there is any sludge blocking the flow of water, hopefully it's one, or a combination of these things. I would hate to have to start taking the engine apart, that's real money! Mind you if the weather persists in it's current form, the WOT2 could be the ideal "summer" military vehicle as it has it's own built in central heating!! :-D:-D:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fayjo56 Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Please keep us informed on what you find, it will help others no doubt. I was amazed how much silt I got out of the MW water jacket, rad is away being checked at the moment. Does anyone have strong opinions on fitting electric fuel pumps to help with vapurising problems. I have one on my vintage Dennis which certainly helps with fuel supply on a hot day, rad etc all checked out too though of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedawnpatrol Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Glen Rather than mail directly, i'll add to this discusion if i may. Being the prevous owner of the WoT Glen is talking about, i can add that i had serious over heating problkems when i first had her 6 years ago, Rad would boil over and blow all it water out ! I had the Rad re cored, never a problem since, must have done 1000 miles no problem since, yes she got hot up hills but thats the beast for you !. The last problem i had with her about 18 months ago was on the way home from a local show, the cab mounted oil filter pot sprung a leak, ( when checked, there was a pin rust hole in the bottom) i lost some oil, I was able to find a replacement filter pot with the good generousity of another forum member which i replaced. The reason i am mentioning this is, ever since then, ( and to be fair i hardly drove it) the oil filter never got hot, like it used to, i'd quite oftain burn my leg on the old one! but i wondered why this new one did not warm up, its full of oil ! and oil pressure is very good, but there is a slight kink in the bottom feed pipe, would that restrict oil ? could this be anything to do with Glens problems ? Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) Flathead V8s have a dual cooling system, yes it becomes common in the radiator, but each pump circulates coolant around it's respective side of the block and head. If you have a temperature gauge (Loyds didn't have a tempertaure gauge - now that is silly!) which head is it in? If you have a way on monitoring each head you can diagnose sticking thermostat issues more easly. You can easly remove your thermostats and test them in your kettle.... Edited July 11, 2012 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Does anyone have strong opinions on fitting electric fuel pumps to help with vapurising problems. I have one on my vintage Dennis which certainly helps with fuel supply on a hot day, I fitted an electric pump to my 12cab C15A in line with and pumping through the manual pump for cold priming(no lift lever on a CMP Chev) and the very occasional hot starting problem. Not very original I know, but in today's traffic it gives a little bit more security. I fitted the pump inside the frame rail and hid the switch inside the cab so the whole set up was invisible. On a hot day after a long run you could sometimes see the petrol boiling inside the pump bowl at idle with that characteristic lumpy idle note to the engine. A flick of the switch and the problem would be solved, turn the pump off and back to normal via the manual pump worked like a charm. Ford Canada actually produced an electric pump modification during the war for fitting to Ford CMP's this came under a series of mods classed as 'Indian army Modifications' for more information on this topic search Maple Leaf Up site where this topic has been discussed in some depth. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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