question Saracen - Escape Hatch

[Mettlen]

Hi All,

 

I'm pushing on with the restoration of my Saracen and I've got to the side escape hatches today (see photos). As anticipated when I took the mudguard off several of the studs sheared. On closer inspection, I can't tell if the studs are screwed into the armour plate or welded on the top. Has anyone had any experience of replacing these studs (look like 3/8 UNF)?

 

Cheers

[griff66]

if they are any thing like a ferret they are welded on as this would be easier

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Mate,

These are special studs that are welded in place to the face of the metal.

[Diana and Jackie]

Hi,

 

For what it's worth these are our experiences with studs.

 

A local company believed they could stud weld studs on the armour using a capacitor discharge (CD) stud welder. The studs were mild steel copper plated and the result we very variable. Some would pop off easily, other were a strong weld. Clearly we couldn't rely on this.

 

Its probably likely that a drawn arc (DA) stud welder would do the job and be the right equipment to guarantee a strong weld, that is if you can find one or a company that uses one.

 

In the end the same company used a TIG welder with no filler rod to weld the studs on, and we can confirm they are 100% sound. In fact there was no mushroom at the base of the stud as the armour and stud metal flowed together. The funny thing is that only one guy would do the TIG welding, the others were somewhat scared to touch it!

 

Others on this forum recommend using stainless steel - probably high tensile, that is if you can find some HT studding or else cut down some high tensile stainless bolts.

 

Mild steel is working well for us.

 

D&J

 

 

Hi All,

 

I'm pushing on with the restoration of my Saracen and I've got to the side escape hatches today (see photos). As anticipated when I took the mudguard off several of the studs sheared. On closer inspection, I can't tell if the studs are screwed into the armour plate or welded on the top. Has anyone had any experience of replacing these studs (look like 3/8 UNF)?

 

Cheers

[FourFox]

I just cut off some 3/8 UNF (8.8) bolts with the right thread length and chamfer almost to a point.

You can easily MIG weld them to the hull using a magnetic clamp to keep them at right angles.

Any lumpy welding (on the first few) can be ground back and re-threaded with a die-nut.

 

 

There just is no substitute for practice when it comes to welding!

 

Jon

[montie]

I just cut off some 3/8 UNF (8.8) bolts with the right thread length and chamfer almost to a point.

You can easily MIG weld them to the hull using a magnetic clamp to keep them at right angles.

Any lumpy welding (on the first few) can be ground back and re-threaded with a die-nut.

 

 

There just is no substitute for practice when it comes to welding!

 

Jon

 

And like me, I end up with gorilla welding, ugly but strong!:red:

[andym]

It's a bit late now and my apologies if you've already thought of this, but in my experience with mudguards on FV432s it's worthwhile running a die down what you can of the thread before trying to undo the nut. It's not usually the part of the thread inside the nut that's the problem, it's the exposed bit outside of it that causes the stud to shear.

 

Andy

[FoolsHumor]

Jon,

 

I appreciate you posting the photos. I generally find myself as interested in the shop area as I do the vehicles themselves. Nice overhead view of your obviously productive space.

 

Regards,

 

Bob