smashycrashy Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Yes. My current plan is to hone it this weekend and rebuild it with the rebuild kit. If after honing I don't think its serviceable I will either buy a new one or get it re-lined (whichever I determine is fastest as Im trying to get this up and running by the end of May). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fox Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 (edited) you have eliminated the obvious? after sitting that long it is possible that the pedal itself needs lubricating - have you dismantled and regreased it? I was looking on ebay for a new master cylinder (just in case) but "Lockheed Master Cylinder" gets a phonebook and "Ferret Master Cylinder" gets nothing, I've been told they are fairly common, is there a part number or something else I should be looking for? They are not uncommon, as far as I am concerned given the 10 day lifespan of an ebay auction, 2 concurrently listed does make them common, its not much effort to scan through 2 pages of results, thats how I found them in the first place! Sellers can list them against a very specfic vehicle yet they are a generic part so lots of cross over potential, hence searching on something generic is better. I have seen these sold as fitting an Albion truck, not many people gonna search for that so not much competition in an auction! (Needless to say i have no connection with either sale - I bought my spare cylinders at Beaulieu automjumble - he sold car stuff and wanted shot, cheaply, of his "truck" sized stock.) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AP-LOCKHEED-LM15092-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-BRITISH-JEFFREY-DIAMOND-BEDFORD-/310394202642?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item4844efaa12 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lockheed-1-5-master-cylinder-/370232472397?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item563393334d Edited April 20, 2012 by john fox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted April 22, 2012 Author Share Posted April 22, 2012 So as I was pulling out the master cylinder it started functioning again, I had cracked the line on the left earlier and tried to pump the brakes, no joy, now when I removed both the cylinder moved fine. Would a blocked "breather" port (top of the refill spigot) cause this issue? Also, in trying to get the master cylinder back on I cant re-attach one of the lines. It is a metal line (the other isnt) and has very little movement, I cant get the threads started to get it back on. Im sure this is very silly to the more experienced but was wondering if there were any hints, tips or tricks to get it reattached to the master cylinder. Here is a pic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 So as I was pulling out the master cylinder it started functioning again, I had cracked the line on the left earlier and tried to pump the brakes, no joy, now when I removed both the cylinder moved fine. Would a blocked "breather" port (top of the refill spigot) cause this issue? Also, in trying to get the master cylinder back on I cant re-attach one of the lines. It is a metal line (the other isnt) and has very little movement, I cant get the threads started to get it back on. Im sure this is very silly to the more experienced but was wondering if there were any hints, tips or tricks to get it reattached to the master cylinder. Here is a pic: Try slackening all the m/cyl mounting bolts to align pipe fitting to pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 as stated get every thing slack also undo union a bit so thats loose as well and make sure u start threads by hand dont cross thread it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Ive rebuilt the wheel cylinder, when trying to get the cylinder back in.. the 3 levers are hitting the tappets and it's stopping the wheel cylinder from getting in the right spot. Is there a trick for getting the tappets apart to get the wheel cylinder back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Levers of wheel cylinder and the tappets/actuators I need to spread out somehow to get wheel cylinder in. Any ideas of a tool/technique to use to get things spread out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Levers of wheel cylinder and the tappets/actuators I need to spread out somehow to get wheel cylinder in. Any ideas of a tool/technique to use to get things spread out? [ATTACH=CONFIG]61723[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]61722[/ATTACH] If I read it correctly you want to refit the wheel cylinders into the backplate? As long as the wheel cylinders are now free squash the fingers with water pump pliers or a G clamp and then refit to the backplate. You can test if the cylinders are working by having an assistant press the brake pedal which will then open the fingers. To close them the assistant removes his/her foot from brake pedal and you squash the fingers back together with the water pump pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Interesting. The fingers will squash together? When I looked at them this morning I could only get movement outwards , I will try with something more than finger force but still be gentle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 (edited) Interesting. The fingers will squash together? When I looked at them this morning I could only get movement outwards , I will try with something more than finger force but still be gentle. Once the assembly is free it doesn't take much force. The handbrake has to be off for it work!! Edited May 15, 2012 by ferrettkitt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashycrashy Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 I see, looking at "Ferret, Unit Repair" manual, I see what you mean, you are compressing everything down into the bottom of the wheel cylinder by putting pressure on the middle tooth and lining it up with the other two. Right now the banjo bolt is off because I was going in reverse order of the disconnect procedure in the manual, I'll reconnect and check for general functionality before reattaching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ec28 Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 As a side note be sure the tappets are free and greased. my pedal was orig, rock hard too. the tappets were seized and the pistons seized. Removed them with a unf bolt drilled out with a grease nipple fitted and pumped the piston out with a grease gun. Good high pressures and it doesn't fly across the room. Also the vacuum cylinder should have oil in the vacuum chamber up to the base of the fill hole(oit's not a drain). this lubes the felt seal by wicking action and improves the vacuum seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc434 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 after doing my brake work i found my master cylinder filler breather relief cap had stop up and would not let the air pressure out of the master cyl. causing a hard high pedal. larry from alabama usa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Having had all the brakes apart on one of our Ferrets, it was discovered that one of the brake adjusters would not operate once the shoe carrier return spring was fitted. I determined that the gear wheel was slipping on the outer brake adjuster drive shaft when operated. Unfortunately the offending item is part of the back plate, and riveted in place. Having removed the brake adjuster, I determined that it could probably be repaired by welding. Having removed the hub (necessitating removal of all 144 needle rollers for the planet gears, hence the clean boards and magnetic parts tray!) and back plate, I ground back the edges of the gear wheel with a Dremel. A couple of spot welds were made to secure it and also to check that it could still rotate as designed, and then the gear wheel fully welded and the weld dressed back with the Dremel. The smaller of the 2 gear wheels sits on top of it and must be able to turn independently in order that each brake carrier can be independently adjusted. The smaller gear wheel was also welded on as there was insufficient material left to re-secure it (theses items are secured by the end of the inner brake adjuster shaft being peined over). I've not quite finished re-assembly as having nearly got it all back together, one of the tiny bolts which secure the anti-rotation springs (which prevent the brakes self de-adjusting) to the brake adjuster snapped so now requires drilling out. Hopefully I can achieve this without having to strip the hub off again! Sorry for the poor quality pics, but I have an old (but engineer-proof) phone. Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teletech Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 (edited) Yes, it's an ancient thread, but I do have a relevant update for those of us trying to maintain Ferrets in North America: I tried ordering the specified NAPA parts and while the UP214 master cylinder kit is still a valid listing in the catalog, none are available and they don't know if they will be ever again. Apparently there is a Raybestos number that is also a 214 but it's similarly unavailable. The wheel cylinder kit NAPA 152 is now NAPA UP152 and still available for about $8/ea. I have four coming, so we'll see. Oh, FAIL! The Napa 152 contains a 1-1/4" brake cup and my Ferret's wheel cylinders at least are all 1-1/8". So, time to go shopping (again). Ford part DIDZ-2221-A contains a pair of 1-1/8" cups as well which are Wagner/Lockheed FC-2936 which, as we come full circle are sold by NAPA as UP 2936 for a bit under $3/ea. Edited August 28, 2020 by teletech 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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