Starfire Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 You Tease! :nut: There's me thinking it was a date and not a numerical reference. Would the Red primer and grey first coat apply to all shades of top coat Clive? Thanks My guess is that it would be more like red primer, admiralty grey, DBG and then whatever the unit painted over the top, most likely 4 other coats of DBG, some sand, more DBG and a few coats of NATO green Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 My guess is that it would be more like red primer, admiralty grey, DBG and then whatever the unit painted over the top, most likely 4 other coats of DBG, some sand, more DBG and a few coats of NATO green Cheers, Terry That's logical and the traces of Light Stone I have found are on top of DBG, so that stacks up. As you say it has the umpteen shades and layers over it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 You Tease! :nut: There's me thinking it was a date and not a numerical reference. Would the Red primer and grey first coat apply to all shades of top coat Clive? Thanks Two clues in there Wayne. FDD changed to FVDE later in 1948 I quoted 2-digit paint codes from BS 381 from 1931, this changed to 3-digits in BS 381C later in 1948 Yes as Terry says RO, DAG, DBG then whatever else on top as time went by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ploughman Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Mil Vehicles not the only ones to use that paint scheme. Our current wagon going through an overhaul has been:- Needled, Sanding Disc / Wire brush then Red Oxide followed by Grey base. To follow will be at least 2 coats of black to the inner areas or 1 under coat and 2 top to the outside frames. Not to bothered about the use of rust killer etc as the size of the steelwork on these is fairly thick. Except for the gridwork in the lower deck which needs total replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Well. Yesterday was Fathers day and I was allowed to completely immerse myself with my toys, so thank you to Mrs F and the children. I spent some time running diagnostics on the generator and panel, due to the batteries not being charged. More on that to follow after I have shared some info with Clive. Then I set about removing some of the rusty and perished metalwork from the front lockers and wheel arches in advance of them being re-created. A new seal kit is on the way for the master cylinder. I will need to track down an oil seal sleeve tool soon though as I have noticed that the Tracta joint bellows were pretty knackered, but instead of being replaced they had lace up ones over the top. Therefore there will be no oil in there. Given the grease and filth underneath I guess they were just greased up to the nines! Milky liquid is some rust treatment I slapped about prior to them being ground down and the metalwork re-done properly. A bit of a preventative treatment. I guess its all progress, but wondered if anyone has had any success in having a No1 Mk1 dynamo / generator overhauled? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Well after mentioning on another thread I had no charging on the Piggy I did the EMER tests on the Generator, which checked out fine. Rampant Rivet loaned me some take off Gen Panels No1 Mk1, but sadly they both didn't yield and instant solution. Upon further inspection and checking some parts may have been fine. Luckily I purchased the items off Clive recently and thought I would see if they worked. I cleaned up the contacts on the regulators and cut out and tried this panel. Eureka I noticed the cut out contact and then the charge light extinguish. Used a voltmeter on the battery terminals and voltage increased with the revs too, up to a max of 33v. Another important issue resolved, but need to make up a sound spare panel now for the future! Brakes are the next one to tackle, as well as Tracta Joint bellows. Then electrics and cosmetics will see her more complete. This obsession is so rewarding some times :-D :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Lights out and charging output to batteries :dancing::beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Well I'm glad that one works Wayne, but it's a little high in output. Have you got the EMERs covering adjustments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 I will check and see..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Yes it's in EMER N254 part 1, Wheeled Vehicles Field Repairs. Looks a tad involving if I am honest, so will need to absorb it somewhat first, not being an electrics expert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Although that does cover Gen Panel No.1 Mk 1 it is essentially the same information but easier in EMER POWER P134/1. The other thing is does your Mod plate have '2' struck out? If not I will show you the mod in POWER P137/1 Mod Instr No.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 I will check and confirm away from vehicle today so delayed reply :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Clive unless I am going blind I cannot find the lubricant details for the water pump. can you steer me in the right direction please? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 XG-279 Wayne. Operation No.41 in the 1,000 mile Servicing Schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 What is the modern version of that please. That is! Assuming there is a modern product, comparable for use etc. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Found this which suggests lithium grease type 2 http://www.ihs.com/products/industry-standards/org/ministry-defence-uk/list/page61.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Just use a general purpose grease that you use for all the other grease points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 As it says there "This Defence Standard specifies the requirements for one grade of grease for use as a general purpose lubricant for automotive and artillery applications, over the temperature range minus 54°C to plus 105°C." Just use a normal everyday automotive GP grease. The best summary of POLs is in DEF STAN 01-5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Now charging at 27.5v need to do a load test for amps once all light up and running. Onto brakes next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Wayne be particularly curious about the state of the front brake pipe that travels under the radiator. Remove the belly plate & shove your head up. As a Mk 1 I suspect all the pipes might be original, so unless they are all very good I would be tempted to replace all the pipes (& hoses) it is quite easy to do with a simple flanging device & recycling your connectors. If you are particularly lucky some might be brass. So you will need the floor up then you can evaluate the fuel pipes. Yes I know one thing leads to another, but it is a case of making the most of the access....then of course you can needle the chassis & work on getting the flaking rubber off the torsion bars & so it goes on :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Sounds like a Winter project. :cool2: did you use 10mm / 3/8" heating pipes for both fuel and brakes or the slightly smaller 8mm tubing? cheers :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Wayne I used proper brake pipe, but CH pipe for the fuel & airlines. The brake pipe allowed tighter bends but the CH stuff could collapse on a tight bend even using a bending tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Thanks. Wasn't sure if you had a different approach. But of course copper wouldn't be strong enough for brakes. :nut: I update on progress as I get her opened up etc. Out of interest are the flexible pipes common to another commercial vehicle? I do have a few spares rubber brake hoses so may be okay, but curious as new is always the best and safest option! Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 As you know there are three sizes of brake hose. The two sizes used on the front I have found match up to those used on a MGA car Inner (13") = SBR053 Outer (15") = SBR051 I have not found an equivalent for the rear. I discovered these sizes by carrying the three examples around at a Beaulieu Autojumble & any hose I came across I tried to match up. There is a company that I believe supplies a kit of hoses for Humber & indeed some people have gone to hydraulic engineers & had hoses made up. In the past good connectors have been re-used, but I doubt in these litigious times that any company would be prepared to re-use old fittings. A thing to bear in mind is that these modern connectors have a narrower bore than the original spec. So any replacements should be bilateral as otherwise there would be a dissimilar flow through differing bores but most people would be replacing them bilaterally anyway. The original hoses would be very old & untrustworthy by now. However a company in North(?) Cornwall manufactured hoses for the MOD for use in NI. I have a small stock of these, but I'm not sure whether there would be any surplus to my expected future needs - I need to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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