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Now the work will start with 13BK33 FV1611A

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The EMER states 5/16" pipes throughout on brakes, which suggests you have experienced two sizes?


I will need to expose and investigate further no doubts.


Getting her on the monster axle stands is first task and removing the wheels etc.


I remember your suggestion for removing the wheels using a fulcrum as they are Fekin HEAVY!

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Yes just one size of official brake pipe, CH for fuel & air, then much narrower pipe for the fuel breathers that exit up through the front antenna feed holes.


Now as a routine I put 6-tonne axle stands under each inner lower fulcrum pin under each wheel station irrespective of whether I have a wheel off or not. It just makes me more relaxed doing anything underneath when I consider that Pig that snapped a torsion bar whilst parked up.


I notice my newer stands have discs on their feet, the earlier ones were just right angle edges that could cut into the ground & loose you a bit of stability & height.


Jacking up can be strange, you really need two jacks. Assuming you have a jack powerful enough as you jack on a belly plate both wheel stations droop. Or I put railway sleepers under the belly plate then move the jack to the outer lower fulcrum pin to jack up the wheel. I always try to roll the wheel up against a wall rather than let it lie flat which is a pain to upright again as you well know.

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I have a pair of stands rated at 3t each and another pair at 6t each.


I was going to go big at front. I was also going to site on a bearing plate as a platform.


My trolley jack is 3.5t so should be ample to raise each corner.


Wheels against a wall is a given.... I don't need a hernia trying to upright one. That's for sure!


Whilst off I can get wheels refurbished and blasted / Epoxy primed etc.


Big jobbie

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I don't think you need to take the rear wheels off yet. You can get at the rear braking system from underneath. Save the rear chassis work for later, concentrate on everything you need to do with the front floor out & wheels off. Otherwise you can have it under restoration for years, I only properly did my rear chassis last year.


As for wheels I just used a needle scaler & wire cup in an angle grinder. But with good personal protection the wire can fly off at a hell of a speed & slip can rip through soft stuff easily :( Cheaper, quicker & more satisfying than some fancy professional job. But it you go for that remember when you tighten the wheel nuts fancy coatings will crack & flake there, then you have bits that will look like garden furniture after a year out in the open.

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Noted but epoxy primer is what I spec on structural steel and whilst a nut may shave it doesn't sheer or flake at all.


good shout on rear though! Advice noted and appreciated as always.


It all depends upon logistics as moving wheels about to a blaster / primer is a task in itself!


It may well result in needle gun and cups.


You are 100% right about cup swarf missiles!! OUCH!!!!

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I noticed that my gearbox was very low on oil so added some, only to see 24hours later a oil patch on the ground.


Time to investigate perhaps.


I may be lucky and find it's the washer on the drain plug...... :undecided:


Likely to be an oil seal I guess.......:-(


Must get stuck into sorting the brakes though..... Need a KICK up the bottom.

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'EP'...... Only Joking!

SAE30 actually......

I have no idea what was in there before though????? :undecided:

Whatever it was it was empty!

I'll get the area cleaned off and see where the drip starts from.

I'll let you know more when I am able.


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That is only a single flaring tool and looking at the instructions it is for copper, brass and aluminium. I once had a Snap-On version with double flare adaptors, but was useless at doing good flares on steel Bundy or Cunifer. Went out and bought a Sykes Pickavent with a turret head, saved pounds on having someone else making them, paid for its self over and over in last 20 years.


For brakes on the Humber you will need double flared ends on the pipes.

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