fv1609 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) I do actually have a spare one of those complete with VAOS label. But anyway yours looks fine & you'll have to make your own label First digit of 5-digit serial number '2' on yours merely indicates it was originally built as a FV1601 whatever later conversion took place FV1611, FV1613, FV1620, FV1621, FV1622, FV1623, FV1624 the basic chassis number remained the same. '3' indicates it was originally built as FV1602 FFW whatever later conversion took place ie FV1612 '4' indicates it was originally built as FV1604 '9' indicates it was originally built as FV1602 FFW but rebuilt as FV1609 & received a new chassis plate with '9' replacing '3' Start of sequences 20001 00 BK 01 GS (originally CT) 32311 23 BK 11 FFW 43301 33 BK 01 Wireless Light Edited May 11, 2014 by fv1609 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 You never offered that to me when I bought the other panels??? Thanks for the serial number clarification. I assume that the 1333 in the chassis number and the ERM are just coincidence then, but what a coincidence. I assumed it would have made the tracking on the production line so much easier?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 You never offered that to me when I bought the other panels??? Well what you bought were Dale's, this panel is mine & to be used in my refurbishment ok? I assume that the 1333 in the chassis number and the ERM are just coincidence then, but what a coincidence. Not a coincidence the ERM is deliberately constructed that way for them all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 At least that makes the history of a FV1600 series vehicle a little more obvious to anyone looking to sell one without correct details / ERM. As a 'Ringer' as they say! I suspect it made the production line QA much more sensible too. I thought your lockers Clive were different on the FV1609? I know you rebuilt yours in a very robust way. I decided to replicate the panel myself with a thicker metal as the original one is thin gauge with folded leading edges. I have also noticed that the panels appear to be individual items, which all sit over or against each other. All starting off the production wheel arches. However this may be for repair after manufacture, as I could see no joints, laps or abutments on my originals, albeit rotten and covered in multiple paint layers. I will certainly ensure that the new panels have a drainage solution to prevent the trapped water and deterioration in the future. Modern car panels techniques using seam sealants will ensure longevity too. Hopefully! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 As I skip through my archive of images of the Pig I came across this image and do not know what the slot and strap are for next to the fire extinguisher bracket. I assume it would be something that the commander may need or use, being next to the passenger seat. Perhaps a Machete? Any ideas, as I cannot see anything in the User Handbook relating to the Driver Compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Perhaps a Machete? Yes it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Yes it is Thanks Clive. I have a period one from memory date stamped of the right vintage, so that will do nicely. I get it is mentioned in an EMER? Just couldn't see it in the general descriptions. Best wishes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 It would be part of the CES wouldn't it. The orginal Humber 1 Ton had a designated spot or holder for everything you could possibly imagine, including a machete, which I believe was mounted on the driver's door. Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Thanks Clive. Well I did some fabrication work today in my little workshop. I have some old but original external locker panels for copying or repair. The offside rear locker top, front section is intact so I made a copy today for the Nearside. I have each of the mudguards three sided sections, so should be able to reproduce the original rear lockers okay. I have measured them all up and produced CAD drawings, so that made the fabrication a little more logical. [ATTACH=CONFIG]90953[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]90952[/ATTACH] The panel needs a little more work, with polishing welds etc and the holes for the fixings to the angle section on the hull, but I am really pleased how they have progressed. They are virtually identical in size and profile, so hoping a neat fit. Good to see you are making progress with the piggy maybe Welland next year along with my MW :nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I think the holder doesn't get a mention because it is out of view or obscured by the fire extinguisher in all illustrations in the UHB, ISPL & EMER Technical Description. Out of sight out of mind, so it gets forgotten about! In fact the EMER runs out of steam & goes a bit wonky at the end of the description on internal fittings because it shows the driver's door with the fire extinguisher & Pouch Drivers General Purpose. The illustration is the door of a Hornet not a Pig. The Pig door has the bracket for the First Aid kit. The earliest CES I have is 1969 & the machete is not included at that stage. It is included in Hornet CES of 1966 & shows: "Machet 151n. blade KE/5110-99-003-8127 Machet sheath KE/5140-99-003-7818" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Thank Terry and Clive. Also Jeremy, progress! Yes indeed, perhaps a little less than I planned to do, but all the measuring up and cutting of the other bits to assembly took some time. I got a metal cutting blade for my chop saw and so the cutting of the edges was very neat and precise. It was like doing metalwork back at school, and I LOVE IT.......... It is also great to get more time in on the MIG....... Edited May 22, 2014 by Rover8FFR typos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 I swung by my Piggy yesterday and managed to remove the old rotten rear lockers before she is transported home for the proper working restoration. I don't want them blowing off down the motorway. It is some weeks since I last was there so I thought I would see if she started and ran again. It was very pleasing that she did and ticked over after a little warm up. Which wasn't long in the Oxfordshire sunshine. Managed to confirm that she can engage and disengage the four wheel drive mode. Also established that the foot brakes work, but need attention. I have a new seal kit for the master cylinder on the way. Area behind lockers appear to have been painted in another colour green, which may have been deliberate or a PO application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Good oh ! Wayne give me a shout when you get the piggy home and I'll call by a your new abode :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Good oh ! Wayne give me a shout when you get the piggy home and I'll call by a your new abode :-D Yep! Will do matey boy :cool2: Do you need a Visa to leave the Forest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Area behind lockers appear to have been painted in another colour green, which may have been deliberate or a PO application. It is a design feature, so you can tell if anything falls off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 It is a design feature, so you can tell if anything falls off That's very practical indeed! I will soon find out as the Pig and Toastie are hopefully moving home tomorrow. Fingers crossed, so if you see anything along the A40 on a truck as a 'Spotted Today' entry. It could be mine on the move. More on this to follow at a later date / updates to thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Well the weekend saw the Piggy being moved to home, which was quite interesting as the whole thing was filmed by Channel 4 for a programme called 'Shipping Wars'. I really hope that I did an honest job during the documentary. I had a bit of a giggle being honest and also got the HMV scene some airtime about why and what we do with these vehicles and the like. First image of them being filmed; The vehicle that was sent down for the move; The Toastie was eased on first; Then I had the opportunity to drive the Humber on :-D ; This was all filmed by the Camera team and the vehicles had 'Go-Pros' fixed on them too. I then parked them up on my separate drive area, where the outbuilding will be constructed to house them. Then I cleared out all the parts and spares from the back, so I can see what she looks like inside again. I have some NOS wheel arches and panels which were quickly bolted on for effect; Other jobs attended to were the draining of old fuel out of both tanks and then run her without the slave fuel cell attached. Managed to loosen and release the front shutters, take out the front windscreens, which are pretty bad. (luckily I had a NOS one spare, but could do with another one. OR Get mine refurbished in some way)! Started to remove the brakes master cylinder for overhaul. Quickly established what wiring is okay for the lighting at the front. Have Head and side lights now working. In between the domestic duties I was happy with some progress and getting grubby. I will be taking off the front wings and the like shortly, whilst attending to other mechanical and electrical duties. I was wondering what is a good base rust treatment prior to primers after sanding and needle gunning etc. I have used a LOCTITE rust treatment and DINITROL before, which have similar results. I wondered if there is a more industrial version available that people have used before? The aim being to get the bare steel as well treated as possible before any paint goes back on. Progress should be more frequent now, so watch as the thread is updated more regularly. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 So, a load of Pig Toastie... And we wonder why some people think what we do is strange :-D trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Well you can really get to work now Wayne :-D A needle scaler is the tool of my choice, then Kurust then red oxide & black gloss (for the pure chassis stuff) but the Pig added fittings to the Humber chassis even underneath in DBG. On good bits of chassis I just painted on Wickes metal paint, even the original black gloss was straight onto bare metal. Places for rust are the Pig rear box section as per my earlier posts. The centre of the Humber chassis at the X intersection is the lowest part of course & I had to repair a few inches of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 So, a load of Pig Toastie... And we wonder why some people think what we do is strange :-D trevor Absolutely Trevor Bacon on Toast is an Institution..... My secret is out! I do prefer mustard though and not Red Sauce :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Well you can really get to work now Wayne :-D A needle scaler is the tool of my choice, then Kurust then red oxide & black gloss (for the pure chassis stuff) but the Pig added fittings to the Humber chassis even underneath in DBG. On good bits of chassis I just painted on Wickes metal paint, even the original black gloss was straight onto bare metal. Places for rust are the Pig rear box section as per my earlier posts. The centre of the Humber chassis at the X intersection is the lowest part of course & I had to repair a few inches of that. Thanks Clive. Yes in advance of the Piggy getting home I invested in a 200L compressor (belt driven) so that should be ample for that and spraying. I just hope the fire station near by don't think it's the fire bell going when I start needle gunning. My wife bought me a 150mm orbital sander air tool for Christmas and I have a 100disc box of assorted grades in the post, which will help smooth things out on those large flat areas. I have a French paint, which I swear by, which I will use on the Chassis in Gloss Black by Deproma. It is used on oil rigs and the like, so is very Industrial spec, but can be brushed, rolled and sprayed nicely. I noticed on the main hull under the newer layers that the original paintwork appears to be red primer, then grey base coat, then DBG! (I may have just mixed the priority of the red and grey undercoats, but there are definitely two colours under the DBG). I also noticed that one of the front windscreen shutters has remains of 'Sand' coloured paint over the DBG, so perhaps this Pig wasn't always DBG?? More sanding and needle gunning will tell me more. Some of the heavy steel additional items will probably be removed and blasted and primed by a specialist for best results. Makes sense with the side hatches and the jerry can holders etc. All in all I am very excited about this project now. So happy they are home :dancing::yay::beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I noticed on the main hull under the newer layers that the original paintwork appears to be red primer, then grey base coat, then DBG! Yes exactly as per FVDD Spec 2012 :-D Primer: Red Oxide of Iron Undercoat: Dark Admiralty Grey BS Colour No.32 Finish paint: Deep Bronze Green BS Colour No.24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Yes exactly as per FVDD Spec 2012 :-D Primer: Red Oxide of Iron Undercoat: Dark Admiralty Grey BS Colour No.32 Finish paint: Deep Bronze Green BS Colour No.24 2012??? :wow: Do they still use DBG then. LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Yes Spec 2012 dated 1st January 1948 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 You Tease! :nut: There's me thinking it was a date and not a numerical reference. Would the Red primer and grey first coat apply to all shades of top coat Clive? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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