fv1609 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Wayne, automotive first, fancy bits second. Get the engine going as your priority:D Regarding fancy bits. The gearbox canvas is unique to Pigs/Hornet. It either rots or cracks from getting painted. Never seen NOS or repro. They were re-manufactured in PVC for use with Mk 2, they had popper studs but cover was enlarged to accommodate the 4WD autoeject spring mechanism. I had a couple but now long gone & anyway would look wrong on a Mk 1. Side lockers, if the angle iron is straight & usable, use if it. If it is rotten or rust has got behind & splitting & breaking the welds cut it off. Welding I found was ok to armour, might not be to FVRDE spec but will be good enough to hold lockers on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Wayne, automotive first, fancy bits second. Get the engine going as your priority Noted would look wrong on a Mk 1. :nut: I recall a plate in mine, which suggested yours is a true Mk I and mine is a Mk II, but not what we all commonly call a Mk II.....Did I get that wrong as I may have embarassed myself in another thread.....:cry::cry: Welding I found was ok to armour, might not be to FVRDE spec but will be good enough to hold lockers on. I know you use MIG and I have the same, so if yours are still attached then that's enough for me. :-) Once the engine is running I will tackle the superfluous lockers etc........ I guess in ones minds eye we see it all done at once......Good old optimism hey! Thanks for guidance and clarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I recall a plate in mine, which suggested yours is a true Mk I and mine is a Mk II, but not what we all commonly call a Mk II.....Did I get that wrong as I may have embarassed myself in another thread.. That is correct, the FV1609 was actually designated Mk 1. That is unusual as Series 1 Land Rovers were not called Series 1 from the outset. The difference is that 1609 was a run of 20 trials vehicles in the knowledge that something else would follow. Generally the place on the plate for Mk is not stamped, but occasionally does have this stamped. On occasions I have seen this on an uparmoured Pig (what is called Mk2 which should really be MK 3) the owner is not at all intrigued as they feel they have a Mk 2 & that's what it says, not realising that the Mk 2 designation refers to its earlier life when it was what most people regard as a Mk 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 That is correct, the FV1609 was actually designated Mk 1. That is unusual as Series 1 Land Rovers were not called Series 1 from the outset. The difference is that 1609 was a run of 20 trials vehicles in the knowledge that something else would follow. Generally the place on the plate for Mk is not stamped, but occasionally does have this stamped. On occasions I have seen this on an uparmoured Pig (what is called Mk2 which should really be MK 3) the owner is not at all intrigued as they feel they have a Mk 2 & that's what it says, not realising that the Mk 2 designation refers to its earlier life when it was what most people regard as a Mk 1. Ah so I didn't imagine it......Great reply and thanks for clarification.....I know this as my plate says Mk2. :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Not sure if this is Gucci or not but seems very worthwhile when thinking about new fuel into an engine that has stood for a period of time....... Is an inline filter also adviseable??? £9.99 seemed a good price. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Wayne yes it is a good idea, which is why there should already be one associated with the banjo feeding the carb. £9.99 seems rather expensive to me. Don't forget that is only a second line of defence, your main fuel filter is on RHS behind the driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) Wayne yes it is a good idea, which is why there should already be one associated with the banjo feeding the carb. £9.99 seems rather expensive to me. Don't forget that is only a second line of defence, your main fuel filter is on RHS behind the driver. Expensive.....Ah Well its only Money ???...Didn't know how common they are and saw it and retail therapy kicked in..... As a side are they commonly available and also the filter for inside the main one by the drivers seat.....I suspect without EMER and User Handbook (in Hand) that that would be a fine cauze washed in kerosin or fresh petrol scenario????? Without a rumage in my FV1611A parts at home in the garage I don't know If I purchased one. I know I bought a NOS Fuel Pump and oil filter amongst all the items, but can't remember the fuel filter. Can you remember? Edited March 9, 2012 by Rover8FFR clarification () Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Clive found my parts CD and the attached image seems to confirm to me that I did indeed acquire a fuel filter also. The part in the image looks very familiar and I just want to rush home now and check as I have had enough of work today. Humber Parts Fuel Filter Exploded.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Wayne I would discard the fuel filter element. New ones are not that difficult to find, once that is replaced at the subsequent annual service you could opt to wash it out. As you know the magic Domestic Management Code for Humbers is LV9/BOE or in later items 9BOE. But because the filter was common to other vehicles eg Ferret, CVR(T) etc then it had the DMC LV6/MT12 which is for a common fuel system component. The item to look for was LV6MT12/2910-99-807-5754. It is unusual to find any of these nowadays. The DMC was changed as only one class of vehicle uses the filter. The NSN is the same but the item appears as 9CVT /2910-99-807-5754. PS I think you had a filter element from me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rampant rivet Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Wayne I have that filter/bolt you pictured it is sat by the PC and its yours FOC if you want to call by and pick it up sometime :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Wayne I have that filter/bolt you pictured it is sat by the PC and its yours FOC if you want to call by and pick it up sometime :-D Jeremy what a kind offer and yes of course thank you......I will swop it for a bottle of Vino for when you are over Lent. Cheers I will give you a quick bell when in the neighbourhood :rotfl::rotfl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 New ones are not that difficult to find........................ Okay...Good to Know As you know the magic Domestic Management Code for Humbers is LV9/BOE or in later items 9BOE. But because the filter was common to other vehicles eg Ferret, CVR(T) etc then it had the DMC LV6/MT12 which is for a common fuel system component. The item to look for was LV6MT12/2910-99-807-5754. It is unusual to find any of these nowadays. The DMC was changed as only one class of vehicle uses the filter. The NSN is the same but the item appears as 9CVT /2910-99-807-5754 All needs writing down so I know when out scouring for parts :cool2: PS I think you had a filter element from me Oh Yeh......Look what I uncovered in my FV1611A spares collection........ I also recall these for that first service / crank up day. And no doubts useful to have this for a nut or something....I owe Rampant Rivet a sorry as unsure if he needed anything off this, but recall lenses for warning lamps......Jeremy let me know? Came across this tonight stuffed away also.......... Amazing how you forget about some spares you carefully collect then pack away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Wayne when you look at your scrap Switchboard No.1 Mk 1 the left hand pointer knob & screw-in retainer nut are exactly the same items used on your turn light switch that is missing Handle LV6/MT4/CB/5870/75 Nut LV6/MT4/CB/5869/23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Wayne when you look at your scrap Switchboard No.1 Mk 1 the left hand pointer knob & screw-in retainer nut are exactly the same items used on your turn light switch that is missing Handle LV6/MT4/CB/5870/75 Nut LV6/MT4/CB/5869/23 Indeed, but if you recall a toggle switch had been fitted instead.......I acquired an old switch part but I think it has a 'Hex' shaft and not one with a machine screw thread to accept the Handle and Nut listed above. Is the actual switch used for indicators a common part to other vehicles please?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Yes as I said your turn light switch that is missing, the proper thing is Switch, turn signal No.2 Mk 1 that is coded LV6/MT4 so is common with some other vehicles of the time. The hexagonal shaft switch I think was used on some Bedfords, they are relatively common, which is probably what you have got. Not a problem with a Mk 2 as very often when the switch was moved down an inch then a chunky plastic knob was used that fitted this shaft. A bit tedious but I think the way ahead is to file flat just two opposing sides of the hexagonal shaft so that the pointy knob will go on. Then on the end of the shaft, file the last 1/4 in so it is circular then tap it to the thread of the retaining nut. I would assume it would BA thread perhaps 2BA from memory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Yes as I said your turn light switch that is missing, the proper thing is Switch, turn signal No.2 Mk 1 that is coded LV6/MT4 so is common with some other vehicles of the time. The hexagonal shaft switch I think was used on some Bedfords, they are relatively common, which is probably what you have got. Not a problem with a Mk 2 as very often when the switch was moved down an inch then a chunky plastic knob was used that fitted this shaft. A bit tedious but I think the way ahead is to file flat just two opposing sides of the hexagonal shaft so that the pointy knob will go on. Then on the end of the shaft, file the last 1/4 in so it is circular then tap it to the thread of the retaining nut. I would assume it would BA thread perhaps 2BA from memory? I was thinking something similar, but did not know how feasible. Worth a go and I will look out for one of those switches...Shame I cant make Newbury Sort Out??? :-(:-(:-(:-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Doing some surfing and came across this site. All in German, but some nice images http://www.panzerbaer.de/types/uk_fv1611-a.htm Enjoy :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Wayne don't be despondent that nobody has replied, but they are all pretty well worn images & I think that link has already been posted on here somewhere. Although not understanding German, I can see at least one caption that is incorrect & that Mk 2 in a US dealer's yard with the daft convoy light is a shot that gets undue exposure. Have you binged as well as googled? http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=humber+pig&FORM=BIFD#x0y0 Quite a number of my images there that have been trousered up from here & sites that I contribute to, at least the last source is acknowledged if not the originator. What gets up my nose, is images that have been lifted, including those prised from a pdf, that are then posted elsewhere by someone else then the "elsewhere" assumes the acknowledgement as the source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Not despondant at all Clive :-D I know what you mean about the Convoy light.....I noticed that....:nut::nono::banghead::angry I expected you to pass judgement As a rule haven't used Bing as it was rubbish when it was first released by MS. Can I assume it has got better over time?? Apologies to anyone if I have posted a bygone link.......All harmless as I educate myself on the Old Porker :cool2: I will be taking some time off in March and will be spending some time with the PIG...... I wanted to get another battery etc and see how she would fare with an attempt to turn her over. After dropping some light oil down the cylinders of course etc, so as to get some blood through her vains etc...... I was going to isolate fuel supply first until I know state of tanks internally and fuel lines etc............ I will also be doing some cosmetic work and removing items that need removing such as lights etc and external trim...... My set of Irwin bolt extractors are on the way..........I will also take copious amounts of rags and penetrating oil etc..... Should be an enjoyable time and opportunity to update photos. Oh and of course photo the torsion bar brackets If I am lucky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Wayne the extractors will be well worth the money. I would also take some sort blowtorch to help free things you don't want to destroy & a fire extinguisher (I prefer CO2 rather than talcum powder). Do you have a mains source? A grinder & a halogen lamp will be useful. If you do connect batteries then only push the earthy -ve connector on just in case the loom starts to go up in smoke & you can quickly disconnect. One of those cheap Hella type isolators will fit conveniently in the box side holes. I prefer to isolate the earth line because if you isolate the +ve a touch of the spanner on any of the 3 non-earth terminals to the case will cause sparks to fly. But with the earth lead switched off you can work on the other 3 terminals with impunity. Take far too many photos, even of things that do not look that important, they may be useful later. Yes wise to not use the tanks & side step not just because of leakage but gunge in the switch & filter. Take something waterproof & thickish to lie on, & when stretching & rolling underneath I would advise strong under pants & an overall that is a little too large to avoid discomfort/difficulties in movement (& elsewhere) when you stretch your arms out. Keep your mouth shut to avoid ingesting, spiders, crud etc the lips will provide some protection for teeth against a falling spanner. I am told it is easier to suture a lip than cope with a smashed tooth. Wear some headgear to keep oil, gunge, spiders off your head & affords some protection. Wear some eye protection from falling particles of crud, I have sterile eyewash in a pack at hand. Always get up slowly when emerging from underneath it is easy to end up head banging on a door you forgot was open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Wayne I have sent you a PM with advice about robustness of some clothing, which might be difficult to explain on here;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) Wayne the extractors will be well worth the money. I would also take some sort blowtorch to help free things you don't want to destroy & a fire extinguisher (I prefer CO2 rather than talcum powder). Do you have a mains source? A grinder & a halogen lamp will be useful. If you do connect batteries then only push the earthy -ve connector on just in case the loom starts to go up in smoke & you can quickly disconnect. One of those cheap Hella type isolators will fit conveniently in the box side holes. I prefer to isolate the earth line because if you isolate the +ve a touch of the spanner on any of the 3 non-earth terminals to the case will cause sparks to fly. But with the earth lead switched off you can work on the other 3 terminals with impunity. Take far too many photos, even of things that do not look that important, they may be useful later. Yes wise to not use the tanks & side step not just because of leakage but gunge in the switch & filter. Take something waterproof & thickish to lie on, & when stretching & rolling underneath I would advise strong under pants & an overall that is a little too large to avoid discomfort/difficulties in movement (& elsewhere) when you stretch your arms out. Keep your mouth shut to avoid ingesting, spiders, crud etc the lips will provide some protection for teeth against a falling spanner. I am told it is easier to suture a lip than cope with a smashed tooth. Wear some headgear to keep oil, gunge, spiders off your head & affords some protection. Wear some eye protection from falling particles of crud, I have sterile eyewash in a pack at hand. Always get up slowly when emerging from underneath it is easy to end up head banging on a door you forgot was open. Clive all very useful advice from I guess a man who has encountered all the things you have mentioned. I will have mains power and was going to take the 4" grinder. I have a propane blow lamp that is very good indeed and portable...I think it's a Primus type! Disposable gloves, over gloves and face mask / eye protection is always used when grinding etc. I will take my Combat Bobhat just for effect. Very useful fact about loose fit negative terminal........I will ultimately fit an isolator........... Fire extinguisher.....God Forbid, but Yes! A must........ An old Poncho is a good tool for lying on and waterproof! I don't have thick woven underpants, so may wear 2 or even 3 pairs to suit terrain. Extra padding on the hips etc. As for eating spiders I have lost count how many insects I will have injested whilst 'Bashering Out' over the years!!! I will go also armed with that most valuable of items in the toolkit...........A large pack of Baby Wipes.......Good for little emergencies also........Especially if I can't get the three pairs of pants off in time.....Ooops! Edited March 15, 2012 by Rover8FFR typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nudge Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 To add a few ideas intro the pot so to speak .... When spannering, i have a supply of clear food bags,the ones that have the white bit on them that you can write on, are the best. Put stuff in them and label them saves a lot of 'hassle ' later on ..... Take a biro, make sure it works. (see above) Take a cardboard box/crate, to put the above bags of bits in, believe me, it might seem daft, but nowt worse than having piles of 'stuff' in the way. As said before, Digi camera ,not just to put pics on here, useful for reference as to how things fit. Flask and some grub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferret1958uk Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 An old Poncho is a good tool for lying on and waterproof! A rogue stone will come to the painfull attention of your spine just as you are trapped in position trying to undo an inaccessible bolt out of sight at full arms reach. A piece of 3/8 ply with a camping foam mat glued on works very well as they are waterproof, soft and insulate from the cold ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Something like an ambulance pillow is good to support & prop up your head whilst underneath. Then can be used for kneeling on for other tasks. A bench cushion from a FV432 fits very nicely on the front wing of a Pig whilst working on the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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