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Bedford MWD


fayjo56

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Not had a great couple of weeks, just few jobs done. My brother was up last weekend so we had a 'play' with the headlights. I really wanted the large headlights of the early MW, but the correct ones are expensive and few and far between. I also have a pair of butlers that work! So we have come up with a compromise, purists look away now! The butlers will be mounted as the photo, with a false large headlight over one and the bridge plate over the other. These can easily be removed if I need lighting for road use.

 

The only other thing I've done is some painting of the underside and screwed the rear floor down.

 

 

mwheadlights005_zpsdda846f7.jpg

mwheadlights001_zps666f9cfb.jpg

mwheadlights002_zps80c35027.jpg

 

mwfloorin001_zpsfa3bd6eb.jpg

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mwsides001_zpsf43e9b04.jpg

 

mwsides005_zps727db7f5.jpg

 

I have started building up the body sides, but owing to wife's slipped disc have had few other jobs and errands this weekend!

 

Nice to see that someone is also reconstructing the body. I have a question about that. If I look at your picture of the floor you can see the wooden beam in the center just behind the wheel. To the left and right of this beam we have the beams to which the mudguards are attached. I can see at yours that the bevelled edge of these beams are ending equal to the end of that center beam. I assume that, when attaching the mudguards to the bevelled edges, they will closely fit towards the inside ends of these bevelled edges. Subsequently, having the correct mudguards, this will imply that the mudguards will protude aside from the floor. And that's correct. Because, when finishing the body, the sides of the mudguards will run in line with the side boards.

I had to reconstruct the beams with the bevelled edges at my bedford with the assumption that the mudguards should closely fit towards the inside ends of the bevelled edges as described above. But when I placed my mudguards they were about 1-1.5 inches away from the end of the bevelled edge. Does this mean that my mudguards are too small or do they not closely fit towards the end of the bevelled edges? What should be the width of the mudguards then? Maybe I have some mudguards from another British wwii vehicle?

Could you help me on this, or anyone else?

 

Danny P

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Hi Danny, sorry about the delay in replying. I have rebuilt my cross members by copying the remains of the originals, but I dont have any mudguards to refer to so will make them to fit. There does appear to be differences in body construction from the little I have seen. Rippo is really the man to ask, maybe he'll be along here soon!

 

In the mean time I have continued with the body sides. I could not find any suitable hinges anywhere so have fabricated some, hope they dont look too bad and will pass muster! One dropside now has the metal edging all the way round.

 

mwhinges003_zps18c080bd.jpg

 

mwhinges001_zps9bdb5254.jpg

 

mwhinges004_zps65d8930d.jpg

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Hello

Coming together nicely paul.

 

I'm not to sure what danny is asking, can you put some pictures up?

 

I already wrote a draft version for a new post but lets just put it on here!

 

I‘ve got a question about the GS body and framework of my Bedford MW!

I’m not sure about the dimensions of the beveled sides of the beams towards the mud flaps are attached. I’ve seen some pictures of other restorations which I’ve enclosed to explain my question.

 

In the first picture below you can see a red line and circle I’ve drawn. With this line and circle you can see that the end of the short beam, above the rear axle, is not in line with the beginning of the beveled side for the mud flaps on the other beam. Is this correct?

To be correct in the first place, when attaching the mud flaps they will closely fit the total width of the beveled side of the beam and will even extend outwards the frame so that they will be in line with the outside of the side boards.

 

body.jpg

(double click on the image for enlarging)

 

The next picture is the wooden framework of my Bedford. Again I’ve drawn a red circle at the same location as the circle in the first picture. Both locations look similar to me. I’ve also drawn a dotted line at the location of the wooden wheel box.

 

frame1.JPG

 

Subsequently the inside of the wooden wheel boxes are covered with one big iron plate 90° angled and two small iron plates which are having a small edge 90° angled on two sides as presented in the next two pictures.

 

wielkast1.JPG

 

As you can see in the pictures the small iron side plates are having a big chamfer flap on the overall width which will fit the beveled side of the beam where also the mud flaps are located (double covering). Is this correct?

 

The next problem will occur when fitting the total wooden box on the frame.

 

wielkast3.JPG

 

The box will not fit the dotted line of my second picture, due to the chamfer flaps which will closely fit the beveled sides. As far as I know, the centre beam above the rear axle should end in line with the inside of the wheel box and should not end somewhere under the floor.

 

Finally a picture of my own wheel box upside down. You can see there are no chamfer flaps. The side plates are just about half an inch to one inch below the wood

 

P1091240a.JPG

 

At first sight it all looks OK but studying these pictures there is something strange or is it that I do not understand the construction?

 

Can anyone help on this or reply with some pictures from a same location (inner side of the wheel box)?

download.jpg

wielkast2.JPG

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Paul I am not so sure about your hinges , my original ones have pins in 1/4" thick (I think ) and 3 failed during the years of owning the truck , there is plenty flexibillity in the body when you drive up a curve or likewise , so maybe a thought .

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Hi Danny, sorry about the delay in replying. I have rebuilt my cross members by copying the remains of the originals, but I dont have any mudguards to refer to so will make them to fit. There does appear to be differences in body construction from the little I have seen. Rippo is really the man to ask, maybe he'll be along here soon!

 

In the mean time I have continued with the body sides. I could not find any suitable hinges anywhere so have fabricated some, hope they dont look too bad and will pass muster! One dropside now has the metal edging all the way round.

 

mwhinges003_zps18c080bd.jpg

 

mwhinges001_zps9bdb5254.jpg

 

mwhinges004_zps65d8930d.jpg

 

I like your creativity for the hinges. Maybe you should round the corners a little bit like the originals? It is a good alternative to progress your project. There may be an oppertunity in the future to exchange them by the originals if necessary. Fairly an easy job to do I think!

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Paul I am not so sure about your hinges , my original ones have pins in 1/4" thick (I think ) and 3 failed during the years of owning the truck , there is plenty flexibillity in the body when you drive up a curve or likewise , so maybe a thought .

 

Thank you Maurice, I will fit them for now but keep a close eye on them! Hopefully some originals or close to originals will turn up sometime.

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Hi Paul,

 

Its nice to see her growing while you get on with her...one day she is a pretty girl again...:red:...

 

Would be nice to gather around with al the aeroscreens who are alive these days..:cool2:

That would be an impressive moment i think...

 

Cheers,

Louis

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Finished making second dropside, and fitted the first one.

 

mwsideon001_zps63cefa16.jpg

 

Looks like you're making progess on that body now! By the way, what wood did you use? Pine? I can see you treated the knots against falling out I guess? Is it just wood glue?

Good job, you're quicker then I am.:undecided:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Fitted the left hand dropside. I then decided to cut out the wheel arches, hopefully they look ok. My rather ancient jigsaw literally went up in smoke halfway round the first arch:wow:! Quick trip to B & Q and work could resume.

 

MWWHEELARCHES001_zps8ce8d755.jpg

 

MWWHEELARCHES003_zps4cd923fa.jpg

 

The tailgate is next.

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Need to beg a favour could you give me a cutting list of the timbers that form your floor structure I'm a carpenter by trade so will have no problem reproducing new timber for my cab, if its easier could you sketch each piece with dimensions inc overall size of floor and post them to me that would be of great use when the time comes.

 

Many thanks Jeremy.

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Hello, just one question. What's the red stuff between the planks?

 

Guy

 

Guy, when we made ours we painted all the edges of the wood with red oxide primer before bolting it together. Looks like this is the same.

 

Chris

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