British WWII REME Lightweight Electrical Repair Trailer: Restoration Project

[cordenj]

It's more than a little ironic that a welding trailer is so badly welded ...... :blush:

 

Yes very ironic.

The trailers were built by Brockhouse, who you'd have thought would have had some competent welders. But perhaps the skilled men were put to more critical work?

[cordenj]

Managed to find some time this morning to complete another job on the MUREX trailer. As bought from the auction it only had a single support leg....and that was bent. There should be four equal adjustable legs on these trailers, and while all the clamping brackets were there, three legs were missing.

Bent or missing support legs is a common problem on these 10cwt lightweight trailers and I've made single replacements in the past. I look on Ebay found 4" diameter laser cut mild steel discs and I had ordered a pack of 4 x Mild Steel Pipe 33.7mm x 3mm from another Ebay store.

 

First job was to mount each steel disc in lathe and cut out a 1 5/16" (33mm) with a hole saw. The neatly cuts the right sized hole for the leg and the cut out core then fits into the tube:

 

 

A simple weld and the three parts are a sturdy support leg:

 

 

The legs used on the lightweight trailers either have a flat top (with a small disc welded into tube) or a rounded/curved top. I decided on the latter type and tuned up some curved tops from a piece of bright steel bar:

 

 

Coat of Bondaprimer and result is four matching support legs:

 

[Richard Farrant]

Managed to find some time this morning to complete another job on the MUREX trailer. As bought from the auction it only had a single support leg....and that was bent. There should be four equal adjustable legs on these trailers, and while all the clamping brackets were there, three legs were missing.

 

 

 

 

 

Good work John.

 

The legs have a safety chain hook into a hole in the foot, in case the come loose while travelling, I noticed you had not drilled the hole, or do you think this was not done on that one? I am going on a Lightweight No2 we restored about 20 years ago, maybe it was a "local mod". :undecided:

[cordenj]

Good work John.

 

The legs have a safety chain hook into a hole in the foot, in case the come loose while travelling, I noticed you had not drilled the hole, or do you think this was not done on that one? I am going on a Lightweight No2 we restored about 20 years ago, maybe it was a "local mod". :undecided:

 

Hi Richard,

The support legs on these lightweight trailers either have a hook and chain as you describe, of a large split pin and chain that locates through a hole in the leg. When travelling with the legs clamped up, the pin is put in place to prevent it sliding down and hitting the road.

My Lightweight No1 Mk11 and Bowser both have chains and hooks, but the Electrical Repair and this MUREX have chained pins.

Did you have any ideas on the remains of the markings I uncovered prior to painting (a few posts back)?

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Richard,

The support legs on these lightweight trailers either have a hook and chain as you describe, of a large split pin and chain that locates through a hole in the leg. When travelling with the legs clamped up, the pin is put in place to prevent it sliding down and hitting the road.

My Lightweight No1 Mk11 and Bowser both have chains and hooks, but the Electrical Repair and this MUREX have chained pins.

Did you have any ideas on the remains of the markings I uncovered prior to painting (a few posts back)?

 

Thanks John,

 

The markings, well the only one that I might have a clue on is AB R/I ........ It reminded me the at the Workshops we had the R & I section, which was Receipts & Issues, where equipment was booked in and out again. The AB could be Airborne, maybe an Airborne Depot or storage facility, this is an avenue worth checking out.

 

regards, Richard

[cordenj]

The markings....AB R/I ........ It reminded me that at the Workshops we had the R & I section, which was Receipts & Issues, where equipment was booked in and out again. The AB could be Airborne, maybe an Airborne Depot or storage facility, this is an avenue worth checking out.

 

regards, Richard

 

Thanks Richard. As the AB marking is on the lowest paint layer, I think it is the oldest and may refer to where it was first stored prior to allocation to a particular unit?

[Tony Lawrence]

I trust a risk assessment has been carried out on the tree?

[cordenj]

I trust a risk assessment has been carried out on the tree?

 

Absolutely. My time with the Forestry Commission wasn't wasted....and these are lightweight trailers

[cordenj]

Austin 10 Engine fuel pump: AC Type T.

 

The pump was full of white powder/grit so needed complete strip and rebuild.

All the Austin parts that will feature in further posts came from Mark Greening at Alderton Austin Services. I visited him a couple of weeks ago with a list of parts I thought I needed for the engine including a new pump diaphragm that will cope with unleaded fuel. Everything in stock and several tips on fitting. Excellent service. A couple of before and after shots:

 

[cordenj]

An unusual part on this Austin 10 engine is the simple mechanical governor. I've not seen or worked on one before so these photos of it might be of interest:

 

 

 

 

Once all back together, I put my cordless drill on the input shaft and span it up, the side arm moved as it should. So another part ready to go on the De-coked engine, although getting it set correctly it will be a matter of trial and error:

 

[cordenj]

The Austin 10 engine appears in good condition. I removed the head and sump to de-coke and dismantle/check oil pump.

 

 

All looked fine so today cleaned block, re-ftted head with new gaskets from Alderton Austin Ltd.

 

 

Several sets of marks on the block. Small date stamps indicate it was first bult in May 1943 but was stripped and tested in Dec 1955:

 

 

As I bought the trailer with the engine sprayed "duck-egg-blue" , presumeably when it was stripped and tested in 1955; I've resprayed the block with a near match to the original......seems bright at moment, but am sure it will tone down with oil and dirt as the last coat had weathered over the last 58yrs!:

 

Edited June 11, 2013 by cordenj

[Richard Farrant]

 

 

 

 

 

 

As I bought the trailer with the engine sprayed "duck-egg-blue" , presumeably when it was stripped and tested in 1955; I've resprayed the block with a near match to the original......seems bright at moment, but am sure it will tone down with oil and dirt as the last coat had weathered over the last 58yrs!:

 

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hi John,

I know you strive for authenticity with your restorations so should let you know that the engine colour "duck egg blue", actually Sky Blue, is a colour used on rebuilt engines from about 1950 onwards so not correct for an original wartime finish.

 

regards, Richard

[cordenj]

Thanks Richard. I guessed it was a post-war colour, but as I had a tin of heat resistant engine lacquer in the colour thought I'd try it....at least as a good base coat.

 

 

Have been busy today putting the generator rotor back onto engine crank and then re-fitting the generator body. Quite challenging as each component weighs signficant amount.

 

 

Then refitted whole unit back into chassis this evening:

 

 

Before I remove the masking from engine and start adding fuel pump, carb etc etc, I now need to decide whether to give it all a final coat of Olive drab.

By the time the front and side lockers are fitted and the roof is back on, not much of engine can easily be seen....

:undecided:

 

 

 

 

 

[cordenj]

Oh well, the concensus of opinion is that the engine would originally have been olive drab....so it is now (couple of the photos taken when still drying hence slight colour difference):

 

 

 

Heat shield for the fuel pump had a piece of leather bolted to it, so a visit to local saddler produced an offcut and another part is renovated and fitted.

One thing I like about this trailer is that is is "real" engineering. Refurbished the Amp and Volt meters (cast iron and brass) and refitted all the chunky electrical coils and heavy duty wiring in the "control panel" for the DC Dynamo:

 

 

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:

 

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[Richard Farrant]

Oh well, the concensus of opinion is that the engine would originally have been olive drab....so it is now (couple of the photos taken when still drying hence slight colour difference):

 

 

 

 

Heat shield for the fuel pump had a piece of leather bolted to it, so a visit to local saddler produced an offcut and another part is renovated and fitted.

One thing I like about this trailer is that is is "real" engineering. Refurbished the Amp and Volt meters (cast iron and brass) and refitted all the chunky electrical coils and heavy duty wiring in the "control panel" for the DC Dynamo:

 

 

 

 

:

 

 

Hi John,

 

Looking good ........ only about 3 weeks to W&P, you could just make it

[cordenj]

Hi John,

 

Looking good ........ only about 3 weeks to W&P, you could just make it

 

Just possible Richard.....but don't want to rush it. Still got the distributor/magneto to sort, to strip and check the radiator etc etc. Brooklands in November is planned first time out. :-D

[cordenj]

A little more progress.

 

Lucas combination Distributor/Magneota model 4VRS checked and producing a good spark:

 

 

New leads and spark plugs and NoS Champion Plug tops:

 

 

Zenith VM Carburettor. Stripped and rebuilt using origainal Zenith kit from Alderton Austin Services:

 

 

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[cordenj]

A few general shots today.

 

 

 

 

More than 25,000 hits on this thread, so trust it is still of some interest.

 

Remaining tasks: make an exhaust; make up a fuel pipe to connect petrol tank to copper fuel pipe; refit side lockers and roof; apply matt black camouflage; add stencilled numbers and markings; source and fit large Record vice; build a collapsible welding bench.

Most of which will now not progress until later in the summer/autumn.

[Alex van de Wetering]

More than 25,000 hits on this thread, so trust it is still of some interest.

 

Definately! The lack of responce doesn't always mean that people don't admire your work. Please keep the updates coming. I enjoy your updates very much and just like with the repair trailer, I like your clean way of working and attention to detail! Alex

[GeePig]

This thread is on my list of subscriptions, so I don't miss an episode

[cordenj]

Meant to add these photos yesterday.

Dismantled, cleaned and repainted the Murex control box. Has a length of cable so that the electrical output can be fine tuned by the welder as they progress the job:

 

 

 

Again its good to see old fashioned "real engineering". Suspect the friable insulation was asbestos based, so cleaned with care and suitable RPE:

 

 

 

All bolted back together and another part completed:

 

 

[cordenj]

Summer is over and its back in the garage to finish the restoration of the MUREX welding trailer.

First job is the strip down, clean and refit the very large radiator.

 

Before I pulled the radiator to pieces, and as it was drained when I bought the trailer, I needed to check that the cores where in good condition and watertight. So I sealed up the filler cap, the inlet and outlets, and then pressurised the whole rad to 10 psi and left it overnight. Pressure held with zero drop so I assume the cores are not going to leak:

 

 

 

Next pulled the rad apart. Large copper core is surrounded by bolted aluminium frame:

 

 

 

All went back together easily and then hoisted complete unit back into the chassis:

 

[ferretfixer]

 

 

 

 

 

 

All bolted back together and another part completed:

 

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Just a point of constructive advice John. All the screw slots on your handles need to be laying in the same plane! You would have lost 6 Points on your trade test for that Mistake Mate! :-D EXCELLENT work though, Buddy. Well done, it's coming along excellently!

[cordenj]

Just a point of constructive advice John. All the screw slots on your handles need to be laying in the same plane! You would have lost 6 Points on your trade test for that Mistake Mate! :-D EXCELLENT work though, Buddy. Well done, it's coming along excellently!

 

Thanks! Did try to get them level, but options were: 1. Level screws or 2. Loose handle....

[ferretfixer]

No excuses John, Select fitting of replacement screws to rectify. Go back & do it again! Or you will have more points deducted from your final exam! :-D