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Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised


Rover8FFR

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To rig a "winterized" correctly then you have a special thermostat housing adapter , IIRC you have this ?

 

============

 

Then :-

 

Harmo 743 Bottom hose (engine hose)

Hillman Hunter 67-77

Humber 67-78

Sunbeam / Singer Gazelle.

 

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Angle hose (Heat Exchanger) qty. 2 is Harmo 1428

 

Not certain is Harmo Hoses are still in business , just this is what the kit inventory states.

 

Just a matter of going to a factors & asking to view a Gates or similar hose catalogue for cars detailed or cross ref. Nos.

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To rig a "winterized" correctly then you have a special thermostat housing adapter , IIRC you have this ?

 

 

============

 

Then :-

 

Harmo 743 Bottom hose (engine hose)

Hillman Hunter 67-77

Humber 67-78

Sunbeam / Singer Gazelle.

 

------------

 

Angle hose (Heat Exchanger) qty. 2 is Harmo 1428

 

Not certain is Harmo Hoses are still in business , just this is what the kit inventory states.

 

Just a matter of going to a factors & asking to view a Gates or similar hose catalogue for cars detailed or cross ref. Nos.

 

Is this the altered housing that Dave Disco has on his images Ruxy. I guess it is?

 

Do you know of any diagrams or images showing clearly the routes of the hoses. I have a rather long straight ish length of a wrapped hose (looks like its wrapped along its length) with a definate kink / shallow bend towards the end, which I am guessing is the return from Arctic Heater to rad/ pump???????

 

Thanks for other references though!

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I think if you look at the Disco Dave site - you will see two styles of thermo. housing adapter - mine is the one off vehicle & fresh painted . IIRC he also posted the up to date layout (that seems to be on a authentic scale Rover blue-print of a S1 /S2.

The rest of the hoses are just Dunlop Gacord 1" bore.

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Is the lightweight normally treated to some special coating around the ignition barrel and electrical connectors or would this be specific to the winterised?

 

Image attached for assistance.

 

 

 

On a poignant note I uncovered what appears to be a remnant of an old cut up pair of navy blue coveralls used as a rag recently. Clive I am guessing it is the remains of an old pair of Dale's coverall's as he always seemed to be wearing a pair when pictured working away on his vehicles? One for the Snug!!

 

 

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Is the lightweight normally treated to some special coating around the ignition barrel and electrical connectors or would this be specific to the winterised?

 

Possibly if it was waterproofed. This could be the aged remnants of Prestikon (awful pun isn't it!) that was liberally applied particularly over electrical fittings & unions. It is depicted as red/pink in the EMERs I have for preparing the Rover 1.

 

 

 

On a poignant note I uncovered what appears to be a remnant of an old cut up pair of navy blue coveralls used as a rag recently. Clive I am guessing it is the remains of an old pair of Dale's coverall's as he always seemed to be wearing a pair when pictured working away on his vehicles? One for the Snug!!

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Wayne I wouldn't attach too much significance to it. As a trained MT mechanic Dale would always follow proper workshop discipline & would wear the right thing for the job & have the right tools. He much preferred the use of old rags to kitchen roll & no doubt acquired these rags whenever the opportunity arose. His adherence to good workshop practices was based on practicalities of doing the job in hand & the safety implications.

 

He was not taken in by some of the frivolities of extreme H&S. I remember him objecting to being sent on a course to train staff to tie up their shoe laces in an approved manner before his employer would issue any new footwear to the staff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

Can you or anyone tell me where i could get a set of the wing boxes that are on the wings of your lightweight? I did have a pair but unfortunately they were stolen & i have looked everywhere i can think of to find replacements. If anyone can help i'd be really gratefull.

Cheers

Steve

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Hi,

Can you or anyone tell me where i could get a set of the wing boxes that are on the wings of your lightweight? I did have a pair but unfortunately they were stolen & i have looked everywhere i can think of to find replacements. If anyone can help i'd be really gratefull.

Cheers

Steve

 

Don't think these are quite the same but may be worth a try.

 

http://www.emlra.org/C&S%20Barrow%20index/clansman_cabling_and_handsets.htm

 

Mike

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  • 2 months later...

Some more progress photos of works in progress.

 

I noticed the old ignition switch on the steering column covered in the red sealant had quite a few connections but only 4 wires. I aquired a series genuine ignition switch/ barrel. Using the civi S2,2a,3 Haynes manual I managed to ascertain which wires went to which numbered terminal, but I am best to check the wiring diagram in the user manuals, so will do that.

 

Slowly stripping the thing down as I am collecting a chassis for her on 12th Nov. Woop Woop!

 

The Bulkhead is pretty shot, being ex Marines and having played in the sea, but the panels are quite basic/ flimsy and I may interogate a repair approach as the costs of refabricated bulkheads are quite scary....Unless of course a good sound used one comes along in between. Still time to ponder on that issue!

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Hi Wayne. I have come across on ebay, 'Buy now' a chap from Wellington, Telford who seams to have quite a few coated, think sheridized or somthing replacment panels for Airportable's at a good price. (Sorry dont know how to link to His site) Keep meaning to get in touch with Him, I'm only a few miles away.

Andy.

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Hi Wayne. I have come across on ebay, 'Buy now' a chap from Wellington, Telford who seams to have quite a few coated, think sheridized or somthing replacment panels for Airportable's at a good price. (Sorry dont know how to link to His site) Keep meaning to get in touch with Him, I'm only a few miles away.

Andy.

 

Is that the guy doing the vent panels, which look anodised for circa £295.00? From memory a galv one from Ashtree is only £300.00? So galv would be better based on those 2 figures.

 

Did some breaking away yesterday to expose the chassis number etc and was frustrated to view that where the bitumen coating had been applied to the chassis the paint underneath was like flaming new! Shame the inerds had been drenched in salt water and I guess the wash / shake down tank used for tanks was never applied to 'B' vehicles, shame as if the inerds were swilled out and then re-treated with waxoil or similar the chassis may have survived much better.

 

Has anyone tried to heat up and straighted a slightly out of shape front bumper by any chance??

 

Discovered an aerosol penetrating oil from the 'Toolstation' and at £1.99 for a large can it is tremendous value indeed. Highly recommend it and far superior/ Cheaper than the old WD40. ;)

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Hi,

Can you or anyone tell me where i could get a set of the wing boxes that are on the wings of your lightweight? I did have a pair but unfortunately they were stolen & i have looked everywhere i can think of to find replacements. If anyone can help i'd be really gratefull.

Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve, Try LMS Lichfield Ltd.

Email Lichms@aol.com

01543 480600 Some on the stall at Malvern yesterday, had a look at them, not sure how much.

Andy.

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Has anyone tried to heat up and straighted a slightly out of shape front bumper by any chance??

 

Just had a look at your first pic. and could see the bend in your bumper. Mine had a bend very much the same. Did not want to heat and burn off galv. so..... trusted to luck, put in low box and drove into oak gate post. Pushed it back a treat. I made sure that only the last inch of the bumper had the pressure applied. Other than that any chance of the use of a press?

Andy.

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Has anyone tried to heat up and straighted a slightly out of shape front bumper by any chance??

 

 

Just had a look at your first pic. and could see the bend in your bumper. Mine had a bend very much the same. Did not want to heat and burn off galv. so..... trusted to luck, put in low box and drove into oak gate post. Pushed it back a treat. I made sure that only the last inch of the bumper had the pressure applied. Other than that any chance of the use of a press?

Andy.

 

Andy...Crued but I like it!

 

This was is a bit bent and crushed and out of shape so will probably heat and whack and then re-galv! I'll have to post some pics to illustrate the out of shapeness! ;)

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Had a RHS on the front of a beetle once, helped the handling. Which got a bit bent.

Used the following procedure to straighten it quite effectively.

 

  1. Find flat level piece of concrete and place bumber on with high point upwards.
  2. Place very large capacity bottle jack on high point.
  3. Place very large Massey Ferguson over the whole lot.
  4. Attempt to jack up the MF
  5. Result one straightened piece of metal.

Mike

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  • 6 months later...

Bit more progress as I managed to remove the steering relay after some careful disection with a 'Cut Off' tool that is like a grown up Dremmel.

 

 

 

Then came the rear battery boxes

 

 

 

Removed the front axle for better engine hoist access

 

 

 

Then came the engine and gearbox that wouldn't seperate so in the end they both came out. Bellhousing lost. Lots of penetrating oil and abuse. Removed clutch plate etc etc etc.

 

 

 

Doing some work on the electrics to rear tub and the bulkhead so that bulkhead can come cleanly away. Main loom that runs down chassis leg removed also along with rear light screw in bezels / bases.

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Andy the vehicle loom appears okay just very grubby.

 

The 24v electrics are fine and the braided copper affect sheathing is still copper shiny in places and definately where the black glop breaks off.

 

The loom pulled straight through the chassis to the back. Only damage is the woven black outer that is very brittle in lots of places. Looking promising, but will no more ehen it gets cleaned / wiped down to clean upn and see if insulation / core damaged

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The main bulkhead harness is the thinghy of value - the loom down the chassis for rear lighting is no big deal as standard S3 88" , I would have to check the part numbers IIRC exact same - so the plug goes straight into a L'wt main harness..

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The main bulkhead harness is the thinghy of value - the loom down the chassis for rear lighting is no big deal as standard S3 88" , I would have to check the part numbers IIRC exact same - so the plug goes straight into a L'wt main harness..

 

FT the main harness (bulkhead) is intact and complete albeit I know a lot of connectors have the pink sealant on them. Lots of spaghetti with some PO alterations done with Bloody Scotch Clips.......That will be sorted out in due course.

 

The main loom is now seperated from where it returns from the rear tub so I should take some photos next time.

 

I will check the wiring diagram for a S3 88 and see if the wiring codes/ colours are the same etc. I think from memory doing the same exercise on my old toastie that they are :)

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The main harness - it passes through a square hole in the bulkhead (to the instrument box). this hole has sharp edges (best to dress as best you can).. Also the Solihull factory used a 2" cube of firmish foam jammed in to stop harness movement at this position. To reduce the risk of chaffing of the braid & sheath PVC - this is in fact one of the best bits of protection against a burn out. Did you find one of these foam cubes ? ISTR I have never seen them on the parts lists and they are often missing. IIRC I have one safe as a sample on the garage window sill - will have a look & take a photograph.. The first time I found one - I almost threw it away !

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