pigdog Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 (edited) Ok. I have the manifolds off and painted and just have to finish painting the exhaust and put it all back on the engine. I should check the tappet clearance, but have never done it before, so I'm thinking about giving up on it. I know they should be checked cold and have a .015 gap. I have the timing mark at TDC. Is that for the #1 cylinder? Then how do you find TDC for the rest of the cylinders? Are there timing marks for all? Can someone explain the process of adjusting? Is it loosening the top nut then adjust with the bottom? All my manuals donts seem to cover this at all. Or should I just leave them be since I dont know what I'm doing and avoid messing it up? The engine seems to run fine. Thanks-Chris Edited February 20, 2010 by pigdog pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 (edited) First off if it aint broke dont fix it. It is a good idea to do the checks and make sure it is in tolerance. There is a small thin spanner that is part of the CES for the job. One of the manuals sets out the proper procedure, cant remeber where it is but its around. If you cant find it or no one replies I can go looking for you. R Edited February 21, 2010 by robin craig spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 You losen the bottom nut and then move turn the adjusting screw in to open the clearance out to reduce clearanc If i've figured this right with number 1 exhaust valve open Adjust 6 Exhaust 2 exhaust valve open Adjust 5 Exhaust 3 exhaust valve open Adjust 4 Exhaust 4 exhaust valve open Adjust 3 Exhaust 5 exhaust valve open Adjust 2 Exhaust 6 exhaust valve open Adjust 1 Exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 There is a special locking tool to hold the cam follower from turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 I'm thinking I'm going to leave them alone so I dont screw them up. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 I'm thinking I'm going to leave them alone so I dont screw them up. Thanks While you have access, you should at least check that there are no tight clearances, as this is the opportunity to attend to them. A tight valve clearance can very soon be a burnt valve seat. You do not need the timing marks, you turn the engine until the particualr valve is fully open, mark the pulley and turn the crank one full turn and then the cam is in the right place to adjust. Easy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotBed Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 mark the pulley and turn the crank one full turn and then the cam is in the right place to adjust. Easy ! well it is for you mate, with all that wealth of experiance :-D pigdog, its not rocket science, i can do it and im not a mechanic, follow chris g chart and you wont go wrong:-D good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Daymond Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 get someone to turn the engine by hand, whilst you watch the rockers, you don't have to touch anything. Slack tappets, will just rattle, it's the tight ones you need to watch out for. You'll see the rockers rise then start to fall, there's a slight pause in between, this is when you check them, if you hold the rocker arm you should be able to 'rock' it up and down by hand. Use a piece of chalk or similar, to mark the ones you've checked. Unless you find something really wrong, I wouldn't be attempting to adjust anything just yet, until you're more confident that you know what you're doing Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 Simon, Pigdog was asking about exhaust valve clearances on a 'B' series, they are side valves and don't have rockers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Daymond Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 lol, my bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thanks for the advice. The problem is getting that "other" person. (the wife) to help turn the engine. Its like pulling teeth to get her to help out. I told her before it would be "fun" turning the engine with the crank. Its like those garden windmills or an organ grinder with a monkey. That somehow didnt sell the idea to her. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hi Chris I removed one of the covers today and checked the clearance on the Cyls 1, 2 and 3. (I was a bit limited on time, will complete tomorrow all being well) Unfortunately my starting handle is no use because the Boss on the crank is damaged. So I removed the spark plugs, which allowed me to turn the engine using fan easily while looking into a mirror. (at the tappets, not just for my own vanity :-) The clearance on all the first 3 appeared to be 0.015" - 0.017", so I don't think I need to touch the adjustment on these. On cyls 2 and 3, the tappet rotated as the valve closed - I was wondering if this was something to do with the "exhaust valve rotator" shown on your Tappet diagram on Chris' first post on this thread? I might be way of the mark here, but thought I would query, as I can see that the clearance is larger (0.025") for engines with exhaust valve rotators in the manual data list. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 I removed the RH cover plate this afternoon to complete the inspection. Cylinders 4 and 5 looking good....Just Cyl 6 to check... Bit tight to get the feeler gauge in here..... b*gger! Clearance on cylinder 6 is Tight! In fact it's only about 6 thou! About 2 hours later I can see why it's tight. To say it's a fiddly job is an understatement. I think the first 5 must have been set by the previous owner because they are almost bang on, but then they probably gave up on setting the last one! Anyway, after I realised that I couldn't really hold 3 spanners in one hand and a mirror in the other whilst stood on a tool box, I wedged the mirror against the fuel tank and the block and that allowed me to get a proper grip on the spanners. 20 mins later it's now bang on 0.015" :-D All done :-) Chris, i would say it's definately worth checking them as you have the manifold off. I would hate to need to adjust them with the exhaust manifolds in place! My cork gaskets do need replacing though as they both fell apart as the covers were removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Well done Matt, good job. It will be interesting to see if you notice any difference when you fire her up again. Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 Matt, Good job with the tappets! I know all mine must be tight cuz I cant get the gauge in anywhere. I will take out the plugs so I can turn the engine. I thought they only need 2 spanners? What size are needed? Do the spark plugs have a torque setting? I cant find any info on that. Thanks-Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolman Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Hello Chris I found that on a few tappets I needed to push them down to make sure they were at rock bottom before I checked with the feeler gauge. I don't have the spanners to hand because the ferret isn't at stored at my own house, but from memory I think it was 9/16th to hold the tappet. 1/2 to unlock/lock the locking nut and 7/16th to actually adjust the tappet. I found that keeping the locking nut relatively tight allowed more "feel" when turning the tappet top nut. make sure you keep the actual tappet held with the 9/16th spanner while you try to adjust, or else the whole tappet will turn. I think as was said earlier there would have been a special tool for this as the 9/16th spanner is a little loose. Regarding the spark plugs, I too couldn't find a torque figure for this, so you will have to use judgement. It's a cast iron head so there should be less worry about stripping the threads by overtightening than in an alloy head. However there is really no need to overtighten. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Matt, I guess thats what I was looking for was a description of adjusting the tappets. I'm redoing the coolant hoses at the moment, but will atempt to do the tappets then. Thanks much -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigdog Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 well I'm throwing in the towel. I was able to do the #1 and 3 tappet, but the locknuts on the rest are stuck TIGHT and I cant get them undone. I've wrecked my hands/arms in the process. I guess 2 is better than none. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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