Great War truck Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Yes, thats a real set back. What options do you have? Make a new one i suppose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Ouch, still if it was easy everyone would be doing it. Could a more modern pump be converted to fit into the casing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 I had a look in the parts book, and luckily the impeller is of the type that can be machined. So next thing to do is to make a drawing and order the materials. I will also make a new shaft as the original one is badly pitted. Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 I decided to have a go at removing the first cam this evening. The cotter pin came out quite easily, and so did the cam. The next ones will follow later on this week. The gearbox looks quite good inside. Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 That gearbox is gorgeous! Whoever used it last certainly knew how to change gear! Good luck with the cams. I wouldn't like to be the guy who does that! Steve :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 We now have all the bearings out and are looking to find new ones. They all have metric sizes but most of them are probably not standard anymore. 7 different sizes on a total of 10 bearings! You can see how the balls were dropped between the races. Also the center bearing of the camshaft came out, the four cams came off quite easily, new cotter pins will have to be made. The bores of some spacer rings are not not concentric with the outer diameter. Perhaps they were using steel pipes that they cut to length or was it the apprentice-in-a-bad-mood who made them? Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redherring Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Marcel. As a Peugeot enthusiast from old 404/504/306/407. Am hanging out for another installment... Any news? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Not too much news on the restoration. But I received a phone call from the Peugeot museum in France today. I had met this people last week at the Avignon motor festival in France, and they were very interested. I sent them a mail with the serial number and they officially confirmed that my truck left the factory in 1916. They have some documentation that they will send me. No spares left... If you are interested in old Peugeots you should become a member of the museum, they still can supply a lot of info. I will visit the museum later on this year before we start building the wood body as they have one there that I can take measurements from. I'll post the details as soon as I have received the documentation. All the best Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Thats great news. Unusual to find a museum where they are genuinely interested and have time to assist. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 The documentation from the Peugeot museum arrived today! I now know officially that I have a 1504 truck that left the Sochaux factory on the 21st of June 1916. From 1914 to 1916, 1597 trucks of the 1504 type have been built. Here are some pics, they have also sent me an operator's and maintenance manual. All the best! Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Now that is good service. Did they make a charge? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 They only charged me € 10 for the date attestation, the other documents and manual were free. I also became a member for € 49 which gives me several advantages like free entry to the museum. Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 I finished the cleaning of the crankcase today. The main bearings have been worked on in earlier years, as proved by the self-fabricated shims. Installing the crankshaft will be a job of patience with prussian blue and more shims. I also found a valve seat cutter set and am now after a valve grinder. Regards Marcel Distribution side The oil is supplied into the pressure header in the bottom of the picture. From there it goes to the 4 holes from where the oil can drip into the trays in the oilpan, the scoops on the conrod take the oil from there. There are also 3 connections to the main crankshaft bearings. Homemade shim on one of the upper bearing halves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Been busy with an other project, a 1886 engine, but that is nearing completion now so the Peugeot comes on the foreground again. We prepared the frame and wheels for sandblasting today so I can do that some day after work, hopefully within the next two weeks. The front wheels came off, but one bearing is still stuck on the axle. On the other side the bearings came off easily, but the big one has a chunk broken out. We'll see if we can get new ones. An interesting detail was found on the wheel stubs: 'Vermot Paris 03-15'. A quick seach on the internet learned that Charles Vermot was a carriage builder, I have found a picture of a 1840 carriage. I wonder if 03-15 means march 1915? Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Shopland Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Was just wondering how is the restoration progressing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Black Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Threads like these just leave me in a state of wonder. The things you are able to do are beyond what I think I could ever do. Please keep us informed of your progress, it has been incredible to read so far. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 Thought it was time for a little update. The frame was sandblasted before the summer. A few weeks ago I picked up work on the engine. One main bearing was damaged where the crankshaft broke off. With a soldering iron the babbitt was laid on, then I turned it roughly down to nearly the finished size and the hand scraping began. After several hours of scraping and testing with prussian blue the bearing fitted like new. I have tested both the other two main bearings and they were ok. Then it was on to the big ends which did not look so good with nearly 0,5mm play in each bearing! Only one solution for that: pouring new babbitt. I made a jig to hold the conrod for both the pouring and turning it to size. The pouring was done last saturday and went quite well, considering it was the first time that I did it. Next job will be to machine them to size, I'm also thinking of using 'Timesaver' lapping compound, anyone have experience with this product? Thanks, Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Hi Cel! Great to see some positive progress again! Please can you tell me how you went about re-metalling the big ends? Which bits did you heat and did you 'tin' the shells? I did the Autocar years ago and they have survived, more by luck than judgement I think. Do I understand correctly that you built up the main crank shell by adding white metal a bit at a time with a soldering iron? That sounds quite a difficult procedure which I would never have thought of doing and I would love to hear how it went. Keep up the good work! Steve :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 This was the first time for me to pour babbitt, so I did what I thought was right. The core is made with a flange on the underside and turned at a 1° angle. I put a layer of soot on it and blocked the oil holes in the bearings. Then all the bits were heated to a temperature that you could not touch them anymore: the bearings for a good adherence of the babbitt and the core to prevent the babbitt from solidify too fast. When I removed the old babbitt from the shells, a thin layer remained so I did not need to 'tin' them. In a perfect world the cooling should be controlled so the babbitt can crystallize in an optimal way. The procedure with the soldering iron is not that difficult. Prior to doing this I had casted some babbitt bars from some old bearings that I saved. The bearing shell was thoroughly cleaned and slightly heated before adding the babbitt with the soldering iron. I am quite happy with the result after the scraping, although it has costed me a lot of elbow grease! Will post pictures in the weekend. Regards, Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Wonderful job! Thanks Cel. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted November 15, 2013 Share Posted November 15, 2013 Ah, it is nice to see someone doing things only heard of and not seen during my apprenticeship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 I have been busy machining the bearings and fitting them to size. One is about ready, two machined and the last one needs to be repoured. We took apart the steering box and it is in very nice shape. The leadscrew and the bronze nut virtually show no wear. Same for the sliding dovetails which connect the nut to the steering arm. Regards, Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 A while back we wanted to take the steering wheel off but destroyed the brass nut that it was fixed with. With a hole saw we removed all the remaining brass and were able to pull the wheel off, it is a conical fit. I ordered a piece of bronze last week and machined a new nut this evening. The thread is metric, M38 x 1,5. Machining and threading As my 'big' milling machine is still set up for machining the bearings, the little Gorton did the job Parting off on the bandsaw Finishing the convex/concave surface A bit more polishing will be needed before it will be ready to fit This is the one at the museum Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 The front wheels needed new solid rubber as the original was loose on the rim. The rears still originall and in relatively good shape. After getting different quotes and prices from expensive to very expensive we found the solution when we picked up some solid rubber tyre sections last december. We broke down with the tractor unit and low loader on the trip, and we only got the equipment across the channel a few weeks ago. We rolled the sections to size and bolted them to the rims. As they were too wide we had to cut off the excess and put them on the lathe to machine the rubber. It turned out quite nice. They will be pressed on next week so we can fit the wheels. Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redherring Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Marcel As one with four rims to re-rubber in the near future I'm interested in this alternative. Can you be a little more specific about the type/source of rubber and the mechanics of application to the rim. And what was the difference in cost? Thanks. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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