Great War truck Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Thats rather splendid. I dread to think how much that cost. What is next? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Most of the exhaust manifold stud bolts are rusted solid, only two came loose without problems. I tried boring out the other ones as they broke off when trying to loose the nuts, but that is rather difficult. I will now cut them with a 1,5 mm disc so the manifold can be removed without forcing. This can be done without problems as the seals are 3 mm so no damage will be done to either block or manifold. I will then remove the remaining piece by welding a nut to it. The manifold will be set on the mill to remove the rusted studs. Best regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I hate that sort of job. Good luck with it! Steve :wave: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 The manifold is removed and the studs in the block were removed by drilling and tapping without damaging the threads. The threads are standard M10 metric. Tomorrow I will clamp the manifold on the mill and drill the studs out. If needed it will also be skimmed but it looks like that will not be necessary. Next job will be the grooves of the cylinders so I can order the new rings. All the best Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Well done! A horrible job successfully tackled! Steve :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Besides working on the Hanomag that my dad is restoring, we split the engine in two halves yesterday. It will be taken apart completely and cleaned. Not sure yet how the oil gets in the grooves for lubricating the centre crank bearing, but I will find out. In my evenings spare time I am cutting the grooves for the new piston rings. That's all for now! Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Good work takes time. Now back to work mister... :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 We finally completed the Hanomag project and rolled the Peugeot into the workshop so it can be disassembled further. I had the piston rings delivered last week, but they sent me the wrong ones and now say they cannot deliver what I need. The groove depth is 3,2mm so I need rings with 3mm thickness, they tell me that they can deliver 3,6mm and I would have to cut the grooves deeper. The piston wall is about 7mm. I would rather not do that and continue the search for the right rings, any ideas on this? The remains of the exhaust damper are in good condition, only need a new shell The propshaft coupling will receive a new shaft and bushings I can't seem to upload the other pictures I wanted to post, will retry tomorrow. Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMS Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 I can recommend Phillip Daintree in the UK for pistons rings, he has always been very helpful to me and always comes up with what i need. contact number is +44 1617664487. very much old school, no e-mail that i know of. best of luck with the project Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 Hi 'Cel! Great to see progress starting again! As far as piston rings are concerned I am sure that making some up would be nothing to a man of your calibre. I would take some SG iron hollow bar and turn the rings to size plus a little bit to allow for cutting. The diameter would be (Bore + (Cutter thickness divided by pi)). Cut through one side and spring the ring open by 10mm or so and wedge it with a piece of steel. Then heat the whole lot bright red and let it cool slowly. On removal of the steel, it will stay sprung. Alternatively, you could make them oversize, say 4mm, and then cut out a section Pi x 4mm and squeeze them into the bore. That would avoid any unwanted heat distortion. These work for models but I have not tried them for full size lorry rings! In your situation, I would use this chap: Clupet Piston Ring Co. Factory B. Solway Industrial Estate Maryport Cumbria CA15 8NF Contact: Mr. A.D. Smith Telephone: 01900 818 361 He is a one-man-band and extremely helpful to the likes of us. He has made rings for me and quite happy to make just one. His rings are unusual in that they go around twice with a dog-leg in the middle so there is no open joint at the ends. Goodness knows how he makes them! He runs them under a surface grinder as the last part of the process so they are flat, true and accurate. His prices are very fair too! Good luck! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runflat Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 Steve, Some info on making Clupet rings here: http://shopswarf.orconhosting.net.nz/clupet.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 Thanks for the responses! Steve, I have considered these methods as well, and if I don't find suitable rings I will indeed fabricate them myself. Will contact the UK suppliers first though. I have asked the supplier that sent the wrong rings if he can eventually deliver two rings of each 3mm per groove, what do you guys think of this? Here are the pictures that I couldn't upload yesterday: Gearbox cover, what a shame that it will disappear under the floor:-D: Frame before disassembly: Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 We took off the rear wheels yesterday. Just had to make a tool for the screw that holds the wheel on the axle. I wonder why there is a radial setscrew on this one? It is impossible to get at it when it is in the wheel. The other one has two radial setscrews. Very little effort was needed to get the wheels off. I will post pictures of the bearings once we have them out and cleaned. The brake assembly; all the parts are loose and will only need a good cleaning and possibly new lining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 My father found piston rings at a very reasonable price, but we have to put two of them per groove and the radial thickness is 3,8mm while the grooves are only 3,2mm. Instead of making the grooves deeper (and the pistons weaker) I preferred to modify the rings which turned out well. They seem to loose some of the original pressure but I don't think that is a problem. The ring is compressed in a jig that was machined to the engine bore, clamped in the lathe and machined to a thickness of 3mm. Before and after Best regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 I wonder why there is a radial setscrew on this one? It is impossible to get at it when it is in the wheel. The other one has two radial setscrews. That is curious! My initial thought was that it is to set the end float in the bearings but then I understood that you cannot get at it when assembled! What stops the collar from rotating? Is it that screw in the face on the lower left of your photo? Are they plain bearings or rollers? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 The ring is compressed in a jig that was machined to the engine bore, clamped in the lathe and machined to a thickness of 3mm. Very neat! How did you prevent the ring from spinning in the jig when you began to machine it? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 There is a flat surface milled on the shaft as you can see in one of the pictures. Behind the screw is a washer that cannot rotate because of the flat surface and has two threaded holes to receive the setscrews. See picture below. The piston ring is just compressed by the jaws, that is why the slot is cut in the jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Looks like they are roller bearings, I will post pictures when they come out of the wheel. Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 There is a flat surface milled on the shaft as you can see in one of the pictures. Behind the screw is a washer that cannot rotate because of the flat surface and has two threaded holes to receive the setscrews. See picture below. The piston ring is just compressed by the jaws, that is why the slot is cut in the jig. Oh I see! Thank you. Steve :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 I'd guess the radial setscrew is like that precisely because it can't back off till the correct disassembly has taken place. With that setscrew in there, the wheel can't fall off because something has come loose, basically. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Work is continuing on the Peugeot. Dad is cleaning the gearbox which is looking very nice, I'll post pictures of that later. We are cleaning the engine so assembly can begin. Once the crankshaft is in I will start machining the new flywheel. The gear pump still looks in good condition and will only need a good cleaning. There is a try cock on the bottom of the sump with a piece of pipe until overflow level. I wonder whether the engine needs to run to try the oil level as it seems like a small amount of oil. The engine also has a float level that is connected to the magneto shut off. If the level is low it will put the mag to the ground and stop the engine. We took out the camshaft as well and will fit new ball bearings. The cam lobes are splined to a straight shaft and held in place by a cotter pin. Four cams will have to come off so we can replace the center bearing. Also worked on the exhaust manifold which is about ready. Here are some pictures. Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hi Marcel. Good to see you making progress. It is all very familiar! That does seem like very little oil up to the level of the pipe. The Dennis holds 22 litres! Do you think it might be there to prevent the tap from becoming blocked with sludge? It would make testing the oil level very difficult because you would have to let a lot drain out before you could be sure of the level. The idea of automatically grounding the magneto when the oil is low is neat but I bet that the drivers soon disconnected it! What a pity that you have to take the cams off. Good luck with them. Steve :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Great workmanship Marcel and very interesting to follow the thread, something else that amazes me is the linguistic abilities of yourself and the many other European members. You put us Brits to shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Thanks for that! I took the water pump apart this evening. Besides the broken crankshaft surprise that you have seen earlier, there was the missing impeller surprise! The body was full of grease instead. I then quickly dismantled the oil pump in order to be sure that it was not missing the gears:D Luckily gearbox and differential are complete! Regards Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 That's a bit of a blow. Do you know how big the impeller should be or what it looks like? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.