question Using a brake flaring tool

[ferrettkitt]

I've just bought a brake flaring tool and having never used one before I've had a go at making basic flares but they still don't look as good as professionally made brake pipes. I bought a kit like the one on the right in the link http://www.integerspin.co.uk/brakeflare.htm

 

Have I bought the right tool or would I be better buying something else?

 

Has anyone got any tips on how to use the tool for this tool! I'd rather screw up now rather than later.

 

Andy

[sharky]

the kit on the right is the snap on type? i got one at work to be honest i dont get on with it but it does do reasonable job . best tip is to practise with it simply but sometimes over looked . i used to have one similar to the one on the left and i much prefered it but went misdsing with a load of other tools one night (grrr not mentioning a certain group of people in our society but lets say they dont holiday in their caravans)

iain

[protruck]

Hi Andy. I use one of these they are much better than the other type with the butter flys.

 

 

www.frost.co.uk/productlist.asp?catId=14

 

You can get the extra flaring parts up to 1/2"

if you ask. its not cheap but its better than messing with the others.

( just my opinion )

the only down side to these is you need too use them in a vice.

 

 

Hope this helps

 

Clive

 

......................................

protruckservices.com

Edited November 7, 2009 by protruck

[fv1609]

Andy I've used a kit like figure 2 to re-plumb 3 Humber 1-Tons with no problems.

[ruxy]

The Frost tool is a dead ringer of the Sykes Pickavant that I have. The SP is very similar to a Ratcliffe (in fact the dies and punches can be used on either). Even with these better sets there is a knack in getting the 1st OP just right - in particular with cupro nickel.

There is a setting tool anvil to position the tube exactly at the end of the dies but it depends upon how much pressure you have used to close the dies up to grip the pipe , when you get the knack of rotating the closing vice handle (Ratcliffe) or lever (SP) just consistent and correct it all comes correct. You may need to try dry & with a bit of brake fluid on the tooling.

 

[Scammell4199]

Andy,

 

I've got one like the Snap-on type in your picture, and found a couple important points to note when using it. firstly make sure the end of your pipe is square, cut it off then file it square. Secondly when using it make sure the thing that looks like a lathe centre on the end of the screw is in perfect alingment with the pipe, i.e. square with the clamp part of the tool. If you keep these things in mind there should be no probs.

 

Richard

[ferrettkitt]

Many thanks for all the advice I'm going to post up some pics of my attempts in the week when I can find what I’ve done with the camera!

 

A single flare works just fine its sorting out the double flare that I've found the most tricky. The disaster pics should show that

 

Andy

[Stormin]

Many thanks for all the advice I'm going to post up some pics of my attempts in the week when I can find what I’ve done with the camera!

 

A single flare works just fine its sorting out the double flare that I've found the most tricky. The disaster pics should show that

 

Andy

 

Are you sure you need a double flare?

Most fittings are only designed for a single flare and the double is just a one size fits all bodge by most brake pipe makers.

If you are using soft pipe like copper or kunifer a slight imperfection in the flare isn't too much of a worry as it will shape itself to fit when screwed into the fitting.

I got myself one of the lever arm type similar to protrucks as I wasn't impressed when using a friends cheaper butterfly type.

[ruxy]

The OP1 (ball end) is designed to be taken up and then crushed slightly to produce the pressure seal , this is often the case with brake slave cylinders , to do OP1 & then OP2 then there is absolutely nothing to compress - muppets often use cheap flaring tools to produce a single flare then tighten up so hard that they almost strip the threads in alloy cylinders. Generally - from what I have seen these cheap flaring tools only produce a cheap simple outwards flare with single material thickness , not the two material flange thickness that OP2 does (a correct OP2 gives some compression to provide a good fluid seal). Also you can find if you look inside such as brass "T" fittings a circular ridge that to provide a correct pressure seal needs a OP2 flare that has the correct inner taper clearance before tightening up - the inner ring form then impinges on the pipe inner taper.

If you have renewed many brake pipes - then you will know that because of this reason many pipes have a OP1 flare at one end and a OP2 flare at the other end.

 

I may have a few photographs available I can show correct OP1 + OP2 and the cheap tool "universal" flare that is a potential hazard.

 

regards

[Glynn]

Biggest problem is alignment on op1 make sure end is square and op1 punch bang on centre, on some cheap tools the centre alignment pin is too small. The moprod tool is brill but only made in 3/16" .I use an ancient sykes tool perfect every time.

[Richard Farrant]

I have used one of the Snap-on clamp type tools with wing nuts and they are cr*p, you always get an imperfection in the flare where the two halves clamp together. Now use a Sykes Pickavent with turret holding all the dies and lever operated. So long as you chamfer the end of the pipe and it is square, you will get factory perfect flares. Safety is paramount where brakes are concerned.

[ruxy]

 

The Sykes-Pick with turret is good - I have one - quality only comes at a price.

 

The one I prefer is the Ratcliffe , the 3/16" spare punch is in fact a SP part - you can use it with the dies and it works just the same - so who designed it first ?

 

The double headed anvil - you place this in the vice first and wind it in to push the dies into the taper to lock & secure (it also positiones the pipe exact at the end of the dies). However as explained earlier - there is still a knack to be learned , not to vice up too tight or slack with the anvil piece.